M-3075-D front arms vs. The World

[shovel]

I have two 4th gen Mustangs, a 94 GT and 96 V6 .

Both of 'em are due for new ball joints so I decided to buy new LCA's and use this opportunity to settle some rumors. I have not yet removed the OE arms off the cars, things might get more interesting when I do that but for now here's what the Ford Racing M-3075-D arm looks like next to a Moog RK620899 aftermarket control arm.

The annotations are things which I have read about the Ford Racing arms and which appear to be accurate on observation. I do not have suitable tools to measure these oddly shaped arms with enough precision to matter, but holding them up against each other from every angle and visually observing them with two eyes in person, and asking my wife to spot differences without prompting her - these things seem to be at least somewhat accurate. I don't have a good way of testing the firmness of the front bushing other than poking it with the tip of a pen and pretending I know what I'm doing.





What I can observe at a glance:

It appears that the spring cup for the Moog arm is deeper. This means the Moog arm would result in a lower ride height, all else equal.

It appears that the trailing edge of the Cobra arm is "scooped" at least 1/4" narrower than the Moog arm

The ball joint, at least in brand new condition, is MUCH easier to jiggle on the Cobra arm.

The rear bushings look and feel substantially similar. The front bushing is of a different design and seems slightly firmer on the Cobra arm when poked with a highly scientific pen.

This part is difficult to tell but it does look at least plausible that the ball joint is farther forward on the Cobra arm. It would almost need to be mounted on some kind of jig to measure it accurately enough to be certain.

The weight of both arms feels about similar and I don't observe a visual difference in the thickness of the stamping.

 

[Wmac]

NOS control arms for 03/04 terminator?

 

[shovel]

Yes, I was surprised to find a set for sale here (out of stock now, probably forever) https://www.winnerscircle.com/collections/all/products/frdm3075d - I must have bought the last set in existence. Around $60 more than the pair of Moog arms, but roughly the same amount less than BMR arms that I was considering. Bought 'em mostly out of curiosity I'm certain I won't notice a difference vs. the Moogs in the real world maybe somebody who does actual racing or sustained 100+mph might benefit from them.

The funny thing is even if I discover they're amazing it won't help anyone if nobody can buy 'em.

 

[badass98svt]

I had a pair of those before switching to tubular arms.
You will definitely notice to increase in turning radius with them for sure.

 

[Wmac]

Nice find. Installed a set back in 2006, didn't notice/feel much of a difference.

 

[shovel]

Now that I've removed an arm from my 96, the Moog aftermarket arm (stamping) is almost identical to the original 96 arm. Same spring cup depth, same trailing edge rim-clearance profile, very obviously the same ball joint location relative to pivots.

With the ball joint removed from the 96 arm via sledge hammer it's easier to overlay the arm on the new arms. I'll see if I can take a couple usable photos but the rim clearance thing is definite and it still appears that the ball joint/caster thing is true but it's real subtle, easier to see with eyes in person than I think I can convey with a handheld camera because the parallax effect doesn't make it obvious if the ball joint is moved or if the camera angle is just making it look that way.

Anyway the take-away for all this is no matter who you are if you're still on original ball joints from the 90s you're gambling. The Moog arms are great, available and affordable. The Ford Racing arms are probably great, but not available. BMR makes premium arms that weigh less and would probably be my cost no object choice just for the weight savings.

 

[Wmac]

All good info, thanks for posting.

 

[shovel]

 

[wmfateam]

Was literally just looking for these arms across the internet on Friday, lol. Was about to go with a used set of Terminator arms. Thanks for the confirmation of the forward ball joints as I was just going off forum data from 2005.

 

[from6to8]

Now that I've removed an arm from my 96, the Moog aftermarket arm (stamping) is almost identical to the original 96 arm. Same spring cup depth, same trailing edge rim-clearance profile, very obviously the same ball joint location relative to pivots.

With the ball joint removed from the 96 arm via sledge hammer it's easier to overlay the arm on the new arms. I'll see if I can take a couple usable photos but the rim clearance thing is definite and it still appears that the ball joint/caster thing is true but it's real subtle, easier to see with eyes in person than I think I can convey with a handheld camera because the parallax effect doesn't make it obvious if the ball joint is moved or if the camera angle is just making it look that way.

Anyway the take-away for all this is no matter who you are if you're still on original ball joints from the 90s you're gambling. The Moog arms are great, available and affordable. The Ford Racing arms are probably great, but not available. BMR makes premium arms that weigh less and would probably be my cost no object choice just for the weight savings.

I came here or google brought me here rather as I'm in the process of building and freshning up/going thru a 95 I bought in 2016. Finishing up on the rear install and about to move to the front, once I get the arms off I'll inspect but I will suspect that the arms will need some attention. I already priced Moog at rock auto for $159 shipped and that's the best price other than the detriot steel on ebay for $155 but MM says they are more generic arms and the moog is better. I know I've read where some have said that moog or china makes things for moog then makes moog for other people or something along those lines so maybe you have to be careful as to which ones you will receive. Not sure how accurate that is but I'll likely just go with the ones form RA vs paying a shop to press in new bushings. I'll end up anyway being at or more than the $159 and if I get new moog arms and what I heard is true about china, then what's really gained having them pressed in vs buying new. I guess the only thing will be that some have said that maybe the oem arms are thicker but from what your thread is saying, it might be minimal if any.

 

[shovel]

I really saw nothing at all to be alarmed about with the China manufactured Moogs. If the aversion to Chinese products is one of political or national interest of course that is its own thing but if we are only talking about the quality of the materials and manufacture I wouldn't worry at all about the Moog arms or where they're made.

Really it's been years maybe decades since the words Made In China automatically meant low quality - sure there are some real disposable things made there but those tend to all be things sold entirely on price like a $399 mini bike or a $9 socket wrench set. Replacement car parts in my experience have been good.

 

[from6to8]

I really saw nothing at all to be alarmed about with the China manufactured Moogs. If the aversion to Chinese products is one of political or national interest of course that is its own thing but if we are only talking about the quality of the materials and manufacture I wouldn't worry at all about the Moog arms or where they're made.

Really it's been years maybe decades since the words Made In China automatically meant low quality - sure there are some real disposable things made there but those tend to all be things sold entirely on price like a $399 mini bike or a $9 socket wrench set. Replacement car parts in my experience have been good.

Cool sounds good