Mach 460 convertible speaker box repair

PNW Mike

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I have a '97 GT Convertible that originally had a Mach 460 system in it. The Mach amps died, so I'm installing aftermarket amp and speakers. While doing this, I noticed that the mouting tabs on one of the rear speaker boxes was cracked, and am trying to figure out how to best repair it before I reinstall it, as it will only get worse over time. The issue is that I haven't been able to find out what the speaker boxes are made out of, but I suspect it may be ABS. If I can figure that out, I can use a compatible glue, such as an ABS glue.

I was also really suprised to see a metal plate that was between the wooder and tweeter sections of the box. They plates look to be OEM, but the install looks super sloppy, as if it cracked 3 sides of the box while being installed and is held in by friction. If I'm gluing stuff for another repair, it seemed like I might want to seal up around that metal divider plate as well.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

ttocs

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pics would help to explain what you have as I am a bit confuse. Yes I think it is just abs so some kind of plastic glue. Your not going to gain a whole lot keeping the enclosure and it would be easier to just mount them to the bottom of the package tray from inside the trunk.
 

PinkieT

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pics would help to explain what you have as I am a bit confuse. Yes I think it is just abs so some kind of plastic glue. Your not going to gain a whole lot keeping the enclosure and it would be easier to just mount them to the bottom of the package tray from inside the trunk.
In a convertible?
 
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PNW Mike

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It's a convertible, so no package tray... :)

I'm talking about the speaker boxes the go on each side of the rear seat on convertibles, behind the large side plastic interior trim pieces that go between the sides of the rear seat and the body. The boxes seem reasonable to use, as they are sealed to help with bass, they mount nicely into the space available in a convertible, and they line up the speakers with the factory grills in the plastic interior trim.

Here's a pic of the passenger's side speaker box. Ignore the trash I found down there when I pulled the seat out, the previous owner apparently was very messy and never cleaned this out, I found lots of random crap down there and a ton of pine needles... :(

PassengersRearSpeakerBox.jpg

Here's a close up of the damaged tab:

PassengersRearSpeakerBoxDamagedMountingTab.jpg

Here's a close-up of the metal seperator plate that I was talking about:

PassengersRearSpeakerBoxMetalPlate.jpg

The metal plate seemes to be sealed inside and has a nice rubber grommet for the wires going to the tweater. Inside the box it looks factory, but the outside of the box looks like it was forced into the plastic after the box was made. :confused:
 

ttocs

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ah gosh I forgot that little vert detail... Check out plastiweld at autozone or get some CA glue from your local hobby store.
 
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PNW Mike

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Thank you!

For the mounting tab repair, the tab hasn't falled off, so I just need to rejoin the two pieces again and then not over-torque the mounting bolt like someone else did in the past. I think the CA glue should work for that. Plastiweld would be good to seal around the metal plate.

This is my first Mustang, and I've learned the hard way that a variety of details are unique to the convertibles. They all make sense once you think about it, but it makes hunting down parts a pain when stuff is listed without pics or specifying coupe or convertible. :(
 

ttocs

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the only problem with CA is that it can be brittle and prone to cracking. It just does not have any give. As long as you don't over tighten them like you said you will be find though.
 
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PNW Mike

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Follow-up with results, in case someone else has to do the same repair...

The CA glue didn't work at all for me, I couldn't get the cracked mount pieces to stick together for whatever reason, they just re-seperated again.

The JB PlasticWeld did great on the cracked mount and sealing up any cracks around the metal plate. I've never used that before, and it was very easy to work with, just be sure wear disposable gloves and move fast - it's hard as a rock in just a few minutes. :)
 

ttocs

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plasticweld is a bit messy and can dry fast but it has never left me glued to something else, or myself like CA has. I use to do model airplanes and because of that I had a lot of little pieces glued to my fingers...
 
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PNW Mike

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Durability follow-up: The PlasticWeld didn't hold. The cracks at the mount points opended back up befopre I had a chance to get the boxes mounted again. The PlasticWeld didn't really seem to "stick" to whatever the rear speaker boxes are made of, either that or I messed up the application of it. :-(

I just remounted the speaker boxes so I could get on with my stereo project - the boxes aren't any worse than they already were. It's not ideal, though.
 
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PNW Mike

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Mustang5L5

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I bought a plastic stapler a few years back and that thing has come in handy for stuff like this.
 

maillemaker

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I recommend VicRez bumper repair epoxy. Tough and flexible. Expensive, too.
 

ttocs

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I have used the bumper repair on a bumper, never anywhere else but it has held up. You can find it at the local autoparts store
 

Bruski

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I have a '97 GT Convertible that originally had a Mach 460 system in it. The Mach amps died, so I'm installing aftermarket amp and speakers. While doing this, I noticed that the mouting tabs on one of the rear speaker boxes was cracked, and am trying to figure out how to best repair it before I reinstall it, as it will only get worse over time. The issue is that I haven't been able to find out what the speaker boxes are made out of, but I suspect it may be ABS. If I can figure that out, I can use a compatible glue, such as an ABS glue.

I was also really suprised to see a metal plate that was between the wooder and tweeter sections of the box. They plates look to be OEM, but the install looks super sloppy, as if it cracked 3 sides of the box while being installed and is held in by friction. If I'm gluing stuff for another repair, it seemed like I might want to seal up around that metal divider plate as well.

Any help would be appreciated!
Maybe a washer on both sides and cover both sides with regular job weld…you might have to poke a hole in it before it dries. Make sure you cover it up with JB WELD…the entire tab and washers
 

ttocs

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also saw recently where they were using baking soda or even cigarette ashes and CA glue to fix plastic pieces on youtube to where after some sanding/paint you really could not tell much. If you clicked on the link look at the other vids that are associated or do a search for "CA and baking soda" and there are a lot of neat ways you can fix plastics I wasn't aware of.
 

maillemaker

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The problem with CA is it is so brittle. I recommend some kind of epoxy. If not Vicrez, they make other 2-part epoxies that cure semi-hard.
 

ttocs

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The problem with CA is it is so brittle. I recommend some kind of epoxy. If not Vicrez, they make other 2-part epoxies that cure semi-hard.
I thought exactly the same thing and it could just be some movie magic but with they often show on the vids that they hit it with a hammer or smack it and I am surprised it does not break. I can kind of understand that with the fiberglass but the powder/ash I would have thought would make for a brittle end as well.

Another warning about CA is it comes in different thicknesses, but they are all VERY good at glueing you to damn near anything. I normally use the medium(back when I flew RC airplanes CA was a go-to for repairs) but once on accident I got the thin. I went to put a dab on the wing to repair it and instead of a small drop a fair amount of liquid sprayed out, ran down the wing and then onto the bluejeans on my leg. I had to throw the airplane down and almost literally peel those jeans off before it all cured and glued them to me. There was a couple of times that I was holding two parts together for the 2mins it takes to cure only to discover one finger was now glued to the parts.
 

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