Maximum Motorsports gripper package

alwill923

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I just completed installing MM gripper package-Rear - Panhard bar, torque arm, adjustable lower control arms, springs - Front - K member, A arms, coilovers with bilstein shocks, bumpsteer tie-rod ends, solid steering shaft, caster/camber plates, weld in subframe connectors. aluminum steering rack bushings. All came in the gripper kit. It was quite a project. I did not do it all at once. Just want to say that all the products were top shelf, good quality, fit perfectly. Not an easy job by yourself. My son helped me squaring the k member. Their support was great and took the time to walk me through some tough spots. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
 

Ferocious

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Got any pictures of the setup or the car?

That thing must ride like it's on rails.
 

alex302

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Very nice!! I love my MM stuff. I'm getting the torque arm soon how bad was it to install the touque arm?
 

Ferocious

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hB5E767AD
 

Win

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Looks great but ditch the flows. You did all that and didn't replace the DS???
 
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A

alwill923

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OK guys I am not familiar with the abbreviations what is DS? I specifically wanted the flowmasters as they are the 3 baffle 50 series. Got from cj pony parts as they were the only ones that offered the 50's. Did not want the noise, sorry! These are great for me.
The panhard bar and the K member were the hardest parts to install. The hardest part was to level the car. mm instructions were very clear on this point. The panhard support had to be held up tight to the frame and leveled. I had the car supported on 6 jack stands 4 for the car and two for the rear axle. this would be easier if one has a roll on lift. I have a two post lift and this does not level the car. I would be easier if you have some help to hold the panhard support in place while you mark the holes to be drilled.
The torque arm is easy to install but you must have the frame stiffeners to weld the front torque arm support to. This can be done in the air and the car does not have to be leveled (the car must be leveled to install the frame stiffeners, I had previously installed they a while back). However, you may have to modify the exhaust. you can see in my pictures how I welded in some pieces in the exhaust system infront of the mufflers. The h pipe was interfering with the torque arm front support so I moved the cats forward and then had to add this amount to the front of the mufflers.
All I can say is take your time, follow MM instructions and be patient. all in all the car was out of commission for 5 weeks (I did it my self except for the k member and had 3 day weekends). I did the back first and then drove the car for a while until I could get some help with the k member and then did the front. I did not work on it 16 hours a day. I suppose if you wanted to you could do it in much less time. I learned a long time ago. When things start to fight you and you are tired, walk away from it. Tomorrow is another day. Installing a suspension system like this is not something you want to do carelessly. "That's close enough" does not cut it.
 

Ferocious

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By DS I'm assuming he means driveshaft. I don't really see the need to have changed it though, unless yours is on its way out, then you could have upgraded to an aluminium one.
 

g36 monkey

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I think he's saying after all that, may as well do the drive shaft. I know I'll be doing mine when I do all of that stuff.


I love my MM products, can't wait to finish up the rear suspension with all of their stuff :D
 

RichV

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Nice, that's a lot of work.

After some driving you'll probably have to re-align your real axle center. I aligned mine perfect after the install and locked down my adjustment nuts. Noticed it was off almost 3/4" after about a year, so I had to re-adjust.

The PHB is hit and miss on people's perception whether they like it or not, but with a T/A I understand it's quite the difference. I haven't driven a Mustang with a PHB and a T/A so I don't have a opinion, but I do know you start seriously tearing up bushings once you stiffen that rear end. And if it's too stiff it tears your torque boxes up.

So how's it drive? Ever have it on a open track?
 

g36 monkey

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Nice, that's a lot of work.

After some driving you'll probably have to re-align your real axle center. I aligned mine perfect after the install and locked down my adjustment nuts. Noticed it was off almost 3/4" after about a year, so I had to re-adjust.

The PHB is hit and miss on people's perception whether they like it or not, but with a T/A I understand it's quite the difference. I haven't driven a Mustang with a PHB and a T/A so I don't have a opinion, but I do know you start seriously tearing up bushings once you stiffen that rear end. And if it's too stiff it tears your torque boxes up.

So how's it drive? Ever have it on a open track?


Are you saying the T/a PHB setup might be too rough on the bushings? That's the set up I'm planning on along with a watts link.

I don't want to be out changing bushings every weekend lol
 

RichV

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Are you saying the T/a PHB setup might be too rough on the bushings? That's the set up I'm planning on along with a watts link.

I don't want to be out changing bushings every weekend lol

It's not that severe. But whenever you stiffen a bushing(s) in the rear end, the deflection goes to the softer ones. I have poly bushings in my LCAs, and changed to a PM3L earlier in the season. After a few track weekends the lone upper CA was just trashed and my rear axle was mis-aligned. So I put both UCAs back in, after some research most racers change UCAs every season. So my point is that you need some give in the rear end, but I'm not sure how the T/A affects things. There are now only 4 bushings from the axle to the body, with MM HD LCAs only 2. So how long will the torque boxes last?

But of course that all depends how hard you are on the car, tires you use, etc.
 

g36 monkey

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I know what LCA's you have. I sold them to you :D


Hmmm, I'm curious now. From what I understand, t/a phb and watts link is pretty much the absolute best for rear handling on these cars
 

MadStang

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It's not that severe. But whenever you stiffen a bushing(s) in the rear end, the deflection goes to the softer ones. I have poly bushings in my LCAs, and changed to a PM3L earlier in the season. After a few track weekends the lone upper CA was just trashed and my rear axle was mis-aligned. So I put both UCAs back in, after some research most racers change UCAs every season. So my point is that you need some give in the rear end, but I'm not sure how the T/A affects things. There are now only 4 bushings from the axle to the body, with MM HD LCAs only 2. So how long will the torque boxes last?

But of course that all depends how hard you are on the car, tires you use, etc.

are you running the stock upper bushings in the PM3L? If yes, it's no wonder why your bushings are shot. I run a PM3L with spherical axle bushings and heim joint chassis end. Reinforced the chassis with a battle box brace and I couldn't be happier. Handles everything I throw at it no problem. Running the rubber bushings in the PM3L is asking for trouble IMO.

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