MM Full Length SFC's

the5.ohh

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Interested in picking up a set and having them installed around the same time as I have my gears done.. The guy who is doing my gears does welding too and all he does is build stangs so its in good hands.. Who has them on their 94-95 coupe? I know it should make a nice difference in overall stiffness.. All i have are kyb shocks and struts, so the suspension is pretty soft and theres a ton of body roll. I have a set of J&M Street Rear LCAs i'm going to install myself too. Opinions on the MM subframes? I would get the J&M but they seem cheap, and I'd rather go with the MM since they're one of the best brands around. I'm looking at the bare ones, I don't need the painted ones. Do the subframes kill more ground clearance or do they sit up nice and tight with the body?
 

MustangChris

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make sure he measures.... The car sags over time (especially at ~20 years) and welding them in without measuring the frame is just "locking in" the problems...

the MM was a nice product, but with a hard top you wont notice a LOT of change. Some change? yes. But not a huge amount.

the MM units ride REALLY nice to the body of the car. no worries on ground clearance.
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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make sure he measures.... The car sags over time (especially at ~20 years) and welding them in without measuring the frame is just "locking in" the problems...

the MM was a nice product, but with a hard top you wont notice a LOT of change. Some change? yes. But not a huge amount.

the MM units ride REALLY nice to the body of the car. no worries on ground clearance.

I'll be sure to ask him about how he would do them. My car is sagging a little for sure, one sides a little higher than the other. I'm not looking for a huge difference, but something that would stiffen the car up a nice amount compared to stock. Like I mentioned the suspension on the car is 100% original minus the shocks and struts I put on in september. That's good to know that they don't kill the clearance.. I'm in the process of waiting for the warm weather to try and tuck up my X pipe lol. I think the MM SFC's paired with the J&M lowers should definitely stiffen the car up a good amount. I can bet money that the bushings in my control arms are shot, that would explain why the rear feels like it sways side to side sometimes.
 

MustangChris

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while its up there have him inspect the rear suspension. He'll be back there anyways :p
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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while its up there have him inspect the rear suspension. He'll be back there anyways :p

Yeah i will for sure.. Just getting an idea of what I'm gonna do and who has what and how it worked out for em. He really knows his shit, so glad I found someone that actually knows these cars lol. And his shop is 2 blocks away, so its conveinent.
 

TanTop94

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make sure he measures.... The car sags over time (especially at ~20 years) and welding them in without measuring the frame is just "locking in" the problems...

the MM was a nice product, but with a hard top you wont notice a LOT of change. Some change? yes. But not a huge amount.

the MM units ride REALLY nice to the body of the car. no worries on ground clearance.

Could you clarify this anymore? And [MENTION=17616]the5.ohh[/MENTION] I know you were looking at MM ones, but SR, CJPP, and SVE all have full length painted SFc for $60 and we get a discount on them all.
 

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Make sure it's done on a 4post lift or with all the tires load on the ground or what have you ... Doing it on a 2 post lift is a big no no
 

MustangChris

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Could you clarify this anymore? And the5.ohh I know you were looking at MM ones, but SR, CJPP, and SVE all have full length painted SFc for $60 and we get a discount on them all.


the car is a uni-body design -- over time the body flexes due to the lack of proper frame design. if he just slaps in the sub-frames he's going to add the support, but he's going to add it while the body is warped. He needs to measure the body/frame to properly install them to ensure the body is properly trued up. I usually suggest people take it to a frame shop for install, but it sounds like he's already got his car at the shop.
 

TanTop94

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the car is a uni-body design -- over time the body flexes due to the lack of proper frame design. if he just slaps in the sub-frames he's going to add the support, but he's going to add it while the body is warped. He needs to measure the body/frame to properly install them to ensure the body is properly trued up. I usually suggest people take it to a frame shop for install, but it sounds like he's already got his car at the shop.

Ohhh ok I understand. Thanks mr. Teacher!
 

RichV

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I wouldn't even know how you'd measure sag, unless it's just visual. The SN chassis is quite a bit stronger than a Fox, but I've not ever heard of this even in a Fox. I'll ask my cage guys, they do a lot of SFCs.

I don't believe this would be an issue unless your tub is rotted out or you're using it as a snowplow or something. :)

But back to SFCs, if you drive like a granny you probably won't ever feel it. Your NVH will be a little higher, and if you put sticky tires under it for the road course or drag you will definitely feel it.
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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Make sure it's done on a 4post lift or with all the tires load on the ground or what have you ... Doing it on a 2 post lift is a big no no
The lift he's got has 2 arms that go under the car on each side, not sure if that means its a 4 or 2. I've read everywhere about the tires being under load and checking for door clearance and what not.
I wouldn't even know how you'd measure sag, unless it's just visual. The SN chassis is quite a bit stronger than a Fox, but I've not ever heard of this even in a Fox. I'll ask my cage guys, they do a lot of SFCs.

I don't believe this would be an issue unless your tub is rotted out or you're using it as a snowplow or something. :)

But back to SFCs, if you drive like a granny you probably won't ever feel it. Your NVH will be a little higher, and if you put sticky tires under it for the road course or drag you will definitely feel it.

Sometimes I drive like a granny but I like to have some fun taking turns and things like that. Eventually I'll do some sort of racing with it. thanks Rich
the car is a uni-body design -- over time the body flexes due to the lack of proper frame design. if he just slaps in the sub-frames he's going to add the support, but he's going to add it while the body is warped. He needs to measure the body/frame to properly install them to ensure the body is properly trued up. I usually suggest people take it to a frame shop for install, but it sounds like he's already got his car at the shop.

That makes sense. Theres no shops like that around here, no performance shops, dyno places.. I'll make sure to ask him about all this next time I see him, thanks MC
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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Could you clarify this anymore? And the5.ohh I know you were looking at MM ones, but SR, CJPP, and SVE all have full length painted SFc for $60 and we get a discount on them all.

I was thinkin MM since they're the top brand. I can still get 5% off but thats not much haha
 

chaos254

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The MM full length subs were one of the best mods for my 95 vert.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
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the5.ohh

the5.ohh

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[MENTION=14656]Musturd[/MENTION] I just looked it up, 4 post is the drive up one your talking about. He doesn't have that one. So I'll definitely see how he'd plan on doing them since he doesn't have that type of lift. Doors won't close right if its done on a 2 point right?
 

RichV

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Yea, when you lift on a 2 point the chassis flexes. A 4 point you drive on it, then lift the whole car on its wheels. 2 point has 2 towers, 4 point has 4.
 

Musturd

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MM is the top brand , that's affordable real ballers run agent 47 or Griggs stuff . Mm doesn't even compare . As for top brand of subframe connectors , the best ones are through the floor subframe connectors ... Yea well your guy won't be doing it on his 2 post lift , your doors will never close once you open them after it's done lol
 

alwill923

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want some pix go to my thread alwill923 posted about 3 months ago. Full MM suspension.
 

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