NASA TT5 ST5 Contender?

[wmfateam]

Took a hiatus from the SN95 platform, 96 Cobra, after buying an S550 and racing in Spec Miata. That was at the end of 2018. Finished second in points in 2019 in the Miata while taking the class and overall points championship in UMS Tuning Time attack in the 2017 GT. And how did I lose the championship in 2019? By running out of gas with 4 laps to go in the last race of the season Took the next two years building a new SM and took the 2022 NASA Arizona Spec Miata Championship.



After deciding to take the 2023 season off, got bored being at the track and not racing. My coworker and I are always trying to find the best car to fit in each Time Trials class within the NASA rules. Well I guess I went the opposite direction as I've never seen a Mustang tried to be squeezed into the restrictive TT5/ST5 class. It is power to weight ratio based(14.5-1) with a point system that penalizes you for modifications and gives points back for deemed "weaknesses" of a car. Like having a "manually operated throttle body(+.3)", "solid rear axle(+.3)" and running factory aero(+.4) with the exception of allowing a low in height hood vent. You would lose .5 for having a splitter, .5 for replacing more than one control arm per wheel, .5 for a panhard/watts link, .7 for piggy back shocks to name a few.

Plan is to run an aluminum block 4.6 with as minimal suspension mods as possible on a 255 wide tire on a 10" wide wheel. With this set up I can be 3100 pounds (with me in it) and put down 253hp.

Enter the blown motor 2003 GT with 63k miles that had been sitting for 12 years in someone's field. Since I was going to be replacing all suspension bushings and going with an aluminum block engine, I figured I would save on the buy in cost with the blown motor car. Plan to reach 250hp is via UDP, long tube headers and off road X pipe. I was trying to get an average of what people were getting with these mods and if the internet is true, lol, this should get me there. If not I'll get a tuner and do the whole intake if need be. First attempt will be with the four link. Lower Maximum Motorsports control arms and stock uppers with spherical axle bushings and coil overs. Front with be the Maximum arms, coil overs, x2 ball joints, camber plates, bump steer and a strut tower brace. If I can't make that work, then I'll go with a panhard bar. If I can't make work. I'll turn it back into a street car.

 

[white95]

Happy to see the rekindled spirit and will be following your progress.

 

[Frank.JD.Perez]

Were you at laguna?

 

[wmfateam]

Were you at laguna?

I did not make nationals last year as I had a head gasket blow just before. I ended up having to drive to Colorado to make up for missing that event.

 

[Frank.JD.Perez]

Sad life

 

[ttocs]

I lived at val vista/ray until 2009 and didn't leave gilbert because I wanted too.

 

[wmfateam]

I lived at val vista/ray until 2009 and didn't leave gilbert because I wanted too.

Literally where I live. That is crazy small world. There are two guys within a mile that have or had SN95s.

 

[wmfateam]

Slight update. Tap'd the crankshaft and installed new bolt, installed Steeda UDP/16lbs flywheel and clutch/ transmission/ headers/ valve covers/ motor mounts and had to drill out and clean up the threads in one of the exhaust manifold studs as it was broken off in the hole. Need to fix the o2 sensor wires that were cut by the failed trans mount and then stab the motor back in and start hooking everything back up. Need to get it dyno'd before I decide on aero and suspension.

 

[wmfateam]

Bolted up the LARS x pipe to the BbK long tubes and factory exhaust. Installed the plenum, vacuum lines, alternator, belt, egr, intake and topped off oil. I wasn't fully planning on starting the car, but I thought "send it." Had to install a fuel pump fuse as I was about to drop the tank as the pump was not turning on. All the little fuses in the fuse box were removed. Put a gallon of fuel in and she fired right up. A little noisy for the first second, but after that it went quiet and super smooth. Not bad for an aluminum junkyard Explorer 4.6 with 108k miles. Now that the car runs, time to attack the suspension. Need to get the springs on and make sure the 17x10 wheels fit the front. I don't expect then to be able to clear coil overs, so I'll be using stock location springs. Picked up the old custom coilovers off my old Cobra so I'll be ordering the MM road race arms to go with the Steeda upper arms. Stifflers jacking rails since I can't do subframe connectors. Front I'm either going with X2 ball joints and poly control arm bushings, or maybe the BMR tall ball joint spring cup a arms. Warhorse Racing has me pausing on them because how much his poly bushings deteriorated. Also debating manual steering rack and brakes. Not sure if that is the way I will go, but that would take another large chunk of weight off the front.

 

[96blak54]

Making some great progress! Good to see you still moving forward!

Hey I really hope you swapped out them junk plastic timing chain tensioners in favor of the normal cast iron ones. Those plastic tensioners are the death of the V8 modular explorers!

 

[wmfateam]

Making some great progress! Good to see you still moving forward!

Hey I really hope you swapped out them junk plastic timing chain tensioners in favor of the normal cast iron ones. Those plastic tensioners are the death of the V8 modular explorers!

I did. I had originally ordered a kit for the explorer motor and when I held those plastic tensioners I immediately threw them in the trash. I was wondering what kind of penny pinching asshole decided to give those the green light.

Progress is in stages. Went to full the coolant system and found a hole in the my new radiator. That thing was stored in the car and moved a couple times when I was stashing parts inside the car. So another speed bump, but it's only money right? Also I lost the shifter bushing/cup at some point so I ordered a brass replacement. I guess I'll start the suspension and make sure the 17x10 wheels with 255 fit all the way around.

 

[96blak54]

So let me ask, how does tech inspection know what your horsepower level is? Are the rules written for the use of stock parts only? Next I would ask if the word "unmodified" was associated with any rule set for stock parts.

 

[wmfateam]

NASA has a decently large rule book that goes over most every aspect. Engine modifications are open, but you take hits to your power to weight ratio if you use a power adder. You need a Dyno completed on a specific Dyno (specific for FWD, AWD and one for RWD). Once you get that, you have your base power/weight. Then you take hits for aero, suspension, chassis, tires and other things. My target power is 250 with a 3100lbs race weight. That allows me to run no Aero, spherical control arm bushings, replaced all control arms, Cobra brakes, jacking rails and eventually a roll cage. Lowering springs of course and probably koni dampers. Here are the links to the rules and the classing form.

NASA ST/TT Car Classification Form

Please click the link to complete this form.

form.jotform.com

Rules - NASA

members.drivenasa.com

 

[96blak54]

WOW the rules are strict!

Now how are they going to know if your engine power remained the same from the dyno to the track? Do you do an immediate dyno session directly after a win?

 

[wmfateam]

WOW the rules are strict!

Now how are they going to know if your engine power remained the same from the dyno to the track? Do you do an immediate dyno session directly after a win?

Two ways. You can either be protested where they tape your hood, fuel door and DLC and send you to a Dyno. Or they can run a data logger on your car send get a very close estimate of your power. Every competitor is required to post their Dyno and classing sheet. Locally, we are a pretty tight group, so we kinda can guess if someone is cheating. There is also random weighing of cars along with any track record you go on the scales. I haven't been to nationals, but I believe they put you on the Dyno there.

 

[wmfateam]

Well a hole in the radiator really pissed on my parade. Ordered replacement and hope to have the suspension going on this coming week. Also found out that I lost the shifter bushing and had to order one of those. Also need to gut the V6 hood and figure if I want to do the Race Louvers vent or make my own.

 

[wmfateam]

Now that the car runs and drives, drove it onto the scales. Little before and after. Steel 4.6 block vs aluminum. Close as possible to same exact. After is also with no AC, long tube headers and x pipe and without fog lights. The before didn't have a fan, coolant, zero fuel(now a 6 gallons), no valve covers, no engine oil and no power steering fluid. Still have to gut the interior as I didn't touch anything else on the car.
Next up is to install the Steeda Comp front springs along with the coil over rear Bilstein shocks and confirm 17x10 wheel fitment.

 

[wmfateam]

Double post night since my wife didn't text me yet, lol. Pulled the interior expect for the radio, mach 460, headliner and put the leather power seat back in. #sub3k

 

[garrittpwl]

WOW the rules are strict!

Now how are they going to know if your engine power remained the same from the dyno to the track? Do you do an immediate dyno session directly after a win?

In the NASA great lakes series, I've seen mobile dyno's at the track and your car number is put into a lottery. If you get drawn, you end up on the dyno.

 

[wmfateam]

Final update. Put the seat belt back in and have it ready to drive around and this is the weight after stage 2. Stage 3 will be door cutting, suspension, etc.