wmfateam
Active Member
Took a hiatus from the SN95 platform, 96 Cobra, after buying an S550 and racing in Spec Miata. That was at the end of 2018. Finished second in points in 2019 in the Miata while taking the class and overall points championship in UMS Tuning Time attack in the 2017 GT. And how did I lose the championship in 2019? By running out of gas with 4 laps to go in the last race of the season Took the next two years building a new SM and took the 2022 NASA Arizona Spec Miata Championship.
After deciding to take the 2023 season off, got bored being at the track and not racing. My coworker and I are always trying to find the best car to fit in each Time Trials class within the NASA rules. Well I guess I went the opposite direction as I've never seen a Mustang tried to be squeezed into the restrictive TT5/ST5 class. It is power to weight ratio based(14.5-1) with a point system that penalizes you for modifications and gives points back for deemed "weaknesses" of a car. Like having a "manually operated throttle body(+.3)", "solid rear axle(+.3)" and running factory aero(+.4) with the exception of allowing a low in height hood vent. You would lose .5 for having a splitter, .5 for replacing more than one control arm per wheel, .5 for a panhard/watts link, .7 for piggy back shocks to name a few.
Plan is to run an aluminum block 4.6 with as minimal suspension mods as possible on a 255 wide tire on a 10" wide wheel. With this set up I can be 3100 pounds (with me in it) and put down 253hp.
Enter the blown motor 2003 GT with 63k miles that had been sitting for 12 years in someone's field. Since I was going to be replacing all suspension bushings and going with an aluminum block engine, I figured I would save on the buy in cost with the blown motor car. Plan to reach 250hp is via UDP, long tube headers and off road X pipe. I was trying to get an average of what people were getting with these mods and if the internet is true, lol, this should get me there. If not I'll get a tuner and do the whole intake if need be. First attempt will be with the four link. Lower Maximum Motorsports control arms and stock uppers with spherical axle bushings and coil overs. Front with be the Maximum arms, coil overs, x2 ball joints, camber plates, bump steer and a strut tower brace. If I can't make that work, then I'll go with a panhard bar. If I can't make work. I'll turn it back into a street car.
After deciding to take the 2023 season off, got bored being at the track and not racing. My coworker and I are always trying to find the best car to fit in each Time Trials class within the NASA rules. Well I guess I went the opposite direction as I've never seen a Mustang tried to be squeezed into the restrictive TT5/ST5 class. It is power to weight ratio based(14.5-1) with a point system that penalizes you for modifications and gives points back for deemed "weaknesses" of a car. Like having a "manually operated throttle body(+.3)", "solid rear axle(+.3)" and running factory aero(+.4) with the exception of allowing a low in height hood vent. You would lose .5 for having a splitter, .5 for replacing more than one control arm per wheel, .5 for a panhard/watts link, .7 for piggy back shocks to name a few.
Plan is to run an aluminum block 4.6 with as minimal suspension mods as possible on a 255 wide tire on a 10" wide wheel. With this set up I can be 3100 pounds (with me in it) and put down 253hp.
Enter the blown motor 2003 GT with 63k miles that had been sitting for 12 years in someone's field. Since I was going to be replacing all suspension bushings and going with an aluminum block engine, I figured I would save on the buy in cost with the blown motor car. Plan to reach 250hp is via UDP, long tube headers and off road X pipe. I was trying to get an average of what people were getting with these mods and if the internet is true, lol, this should get me there. If not I'll get a tuner and do the whole intake if need be. First attempt will be with the four link. Lower Maximum Motorsports control arms and stock uppers with spherical axle bushings and coil overs. Front with be the Maximum arms, coil overs, x2 ball joints, camber plates, bump steer and a strut tower brace. If I can't make that work, then I'll go with a panhard bar. If I can't make work. I'll turn it back into a street car.
