Need advice on engine build

[97aztecgt]

Hey everyone, so pretty much recently the oil pump in my car has decided to start going out. I'd hate to just pull the motor just to put an oil pump in. I've heard WAY too many different combos that use this head with that intake, so on and so forth. I've currently have an Edlebrock Performer RPM II intake on my car with stock heads. I'm looking for a set of heads that will work well for this intake, UNLESS there is a little bit better combo out there. I'm basically looking for the ' the best bang for my buck ' type of combo. The car will be set up for spray, so I'm alo looking to do a short block overhaul. I'd like to do a 306 or 331, but I'm not sure which would be better for a street/strip car that will be daily driven. And any advice on which rotating assembly I should use for it? I've never built a motor before, so this will be my first time. I do work for Toyota, so I'll be having the lead techs help me out. Also just any advice in general is greatly appreciated. As soon as I get my truck running in a few weeks, the car should start getting tore down.

Brenton

 

[Paul]

How does an oil pump "start going out" anyway? They either pump oil, or break and don't pump oil.

347, AFR 185 heads, Systemax II intake, Ed Curtis or large Comp XE cam. NX wet kit.

 

[5.0kid]

^as paul said, that combo will make some sick na power.
what kinda money are you looking to spend on this? Many people start out with a thought of what they want, but end up finding they don't have the budget for it...

 

[97aztecgt]

When I did the intake install, I had to change the oil multiple times with the "bulk" oil at work. I think that the thin 5w20 somehow started making the oil pump go out, idk. It's tapping now from about 1200-6000. I don't have oil pressure at idle, but have it at 1200-6000 or anytime I'm on the throttle. However, this thread is not about that, it's about the rebuild of the car that I can't wait to get started.

There is no ' limit ' to this build, since the car will have a nice garage to sit in while I can drive my other vehicle. It could take anywhere from 6 months to a year to finish, I could care less how long it takes. As long as I'm happy in the end, I'll be okay.

I want to use the factory block, so I'm going to take what ever precautions that are needed to ' help ' keep the block together.

What would be a good nitrous friendly rotating assembly to go with the 347? Something to withstand about 600 whp ( that way I won't have to worry about my internals, and I can keep the power at about 500whp).

Brenton

 

[5.0kid]

if your wanting to get 600rwhp, i would strongly suggest getting an aftermarket block. yes, many have done this, but the stock block will only go so far. If you're going to spend that much money on the build, you might as well build an aftermarket block if you want more in the future.

 

[97aztecgt]

I want around 500whp, but it all just depends. I may even end up going turbo after looking around online. I just want to get the motor done first. Well, actually the suspension will be done first, then motor and trans.

Brenton

 

[modo]

your oil pump is fine, it sounds like you spun a bearing

.02

 

[94kingcbra]

+1 on an aftermarket block. check this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6009-Z347/

 

[Paul]

your oil pump is fine, it sounds like you spun a bearing

.02

Yep.

 

[DFG_magic]

Another vote for the AFR 185's. Especially with a 347+. I'd say the 165's if you're staying 302/306.

 

[NXcoupe]

I'm basically looking for the ' the best bang for my buck ' type of combo.
Brenton

Ok, so being the resident AFR hater, lol,(put the gun down Paul, lol!), I am going along the lines of the best bang for the buck. I think a TFS set of Track Heat heads with the upgraded valve train, a good custom cam or a TFS stage 2, a 347 with flat top pistons, a good set of lightweight I beam or std H beam rods, forged or even a cast steel crank, with a DSS girdle will get you to your 500 rwhp on spray very easily and make for a very nice dd as well. Lots of torque, quick accelleration, nice sound, and works well with the spray. I have built a bunch of these combos with AFR and with TFS, and you can see upper 300 rwhp all motor up to 400 rwhp.
The key phrase I used was best bang for the buck. These parts are all priced lower and work just as well for the money. I build engines and spec engines for a living when I'm not over here(and I still do it over the phone or email for customers from over here, lol), and I have put together a lot of combos over the years. This will work really well and keep begging for more.
when I get all my projects done, I'm going to get with Paul and ask him to help me set up a fair AFR to TFS comparison since they both have CNC ports now. I don't think the TFS cnc are the best bang for the buck however, but it would be an apples to apples comparison on my dyno to see just what the differences are. I'm willing to do it, just have to get all this other stuff done and sold off, and free up my resources. Wouldn't that be cool?
Anyway, sorry for the off topic, but hope this helps. There are a whole bunch of paths to get to the same goal, this is just one of them that goes along with your conditions.

 

[5.0kid]

that would be a sweet comparison!

 

[94kingcbra]

So, what do you plan on doing? Keep us updated!

 

[Lebedin8654]

About to finish up my ride, let me know when you get ready to tear into that thing!!!

 

[LAFENATU]

I would do...

Boss Block or World SHP Block

Something along the lines of a CHP pro street 347 kit.

?Forged 4340 Steel 3.400" Stroke CrankShaft
?CHP 4340 Forged Steel 5.315 or 5.400 H-Beam Connecting Rods with ARP Capscrews
?Probe Racing SRS Forged Pistons (Flat Top) Dish and Blower Pistons Available
?Clevite77 Main Bearings
?Clevite77 Rod Bearings
?Moly Ring Package