New issues have me stumped??

[mcglsr2]

Nah I hear you, I hate randomly replacing things to try to fix something. Just hate it. Hmm, alternator/battery in good shape? Missing is almost always fuel or spark, assuming there isn't something wrong with the rotating assembly. Have you checked for codes?

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Tomorrow or Sunday we plan on doing a compression check and pulling codes. Alternator and battery are both new as well as literally everything else. All sensors (except that one o2 sensor), dizzy cap and rotor, plugs and wires, coil. The only thing that isn't actually new are the injectors, they came with the intake but didn't really look to be in bad shape when we put em in but who knows?

 

[mcglsr2]

Tomorrow or Sunday we plan on doing a compression check and pulling codes. Alternator and battery are both new as well as literally everything else. All sensors (except that one o2 sensor), dizzy cap and rotor, plugs and wires, coil. The only thing that isn't actually new are the injectors, they came with the intake but didn't really look to be in bad shape when we put em in but who knows?

Step 1 before anything else should be pulling codes. Who knows, the car might actually tell you where the misfire is. It'll save you some hunting.

 

[ster302]

I'd rule out mechanical first, do a compression test and go from there. The pcm doesn't support actual misfire detection being pre-obd2 but it may store other codes indicating rich or lean conditions that could give you clues on where to go next. I'd be pretty surprised if you had a bad injector but anything is possible at this point. Do you have access to a professional grade scanner? These typically have a wiggle test function so you can find loose connections by shaking connectors and harnesses.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

[MENTION=17007]RichV[/MENTION] [MENTION=15705]mcglsr2[/MENTION] [MENTION=10547]CC'S95GT[/MENTION] I just hooked up a pocket code reader and checked the codes, KOEO(finally). I got 113, 157, 212, and 327. The booklet I have says 113 is intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage/-40 degrees indicated.
157 is Mass Air Flow sensor fault, low voltage.
212 is loss of ignition diagnostic monitor signal/SPOUT circuit grounded.
And 327 is of course EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage, which would be due to the lack of an EGR on this car. Lol

Sooooo what does that info above actually tell me? Lol.

 

[ster302]

Try unplugging your spout connector and see how it runs


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[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Try unplugging your spout connector and see how it runs


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Slightly worse

 

[mcglsr2]

RichV mcglsr2 CC'S95GT I just hooked up a pocket code reader and checked the codes, KOEO(finally). I got 113, 157, 212, and 327. The booklet I have says 113 is intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage/-40 degrees indicated.
157 is Mass Air Flow sensor fault, low voltage.
212 is loss of ignition diagnostic monitor signal/SPOUT circuit grounded.
And 327 is of course EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage, which would be due to the lack of an EGR on this car. Lol

Sooooo what does that info above actually tell me? Lol.

Alright, that sounds like a lot of stuff going bad. How old are those sensors? Is it likely that they could be bad? The 113 may not be that big of a deal since it could be thrown if the car doesn't reach normal operating temp. If you are having problems starting and running, this may be the case. But also seeing the codes for that other stuff is interesting.

I have two ideas:
1) that there's a short or open circuit somewhere (probably short because of the 212), and it's screwing with your sensors, making your car run like crap. Maybe something in that harness over on that side of the car, since the sensors with the issues seem to be over there (I'm going off what I know for a '95). It just doesn't seem all that likely that all of a sudden a bunch of sensors went bad...

2) Either your TFI module is hosed or the PIP is hosed. These could be causing some of the issue, and TFI/PIP could be fore sure causing the 212 code. Also, it's possible for the SPOUT wire to actually be grounding/shorting against something. Not sure why this would have happened all of a sudden though...

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Alright, that sounds like a lot of stuff going bad. How old are those sensors? Is it likely that they could be bad? The 113 may not be that big of a deal since it could be thrown if the car doesn't reach normal operating temp. If you are having problems starting and running, this may be the case. But also seeing the codes for that other stuff is interesting.

I have two ideas:
1) that there's a short or open circuit somewhere (probably short because of the 212), and it's screwing with your sensors, making your car run like crap. Maybe something in that harness over on that side of the car, since the sensors with the issues seem to be over there (I'm going off what I know for a '95). It just doesn't seem all that likely that all of a sudden a bunch of sensors went bad...

2) Either your TFI module is hosed or the PIP is hosed. These could be causing some of the issue, and TFI/PIP could be fore sure causing the 212 code. Also, it's possible for the SPOUT wire to actually be grounding/shorting against something. Not sure why this would have happened all of a sudden though...

The sensors are new, except for the MAF which is used and may need to be cleaned. Everything else though is new, less than 1000 miles. That includes distributor, cap and rotor, plugs and wires, TFI, ACT sensor and ECT sensor, IAC is original but it has been cleaned recently.

So today we tried a little experiment. Since we had power to the #1 injector and fire to the plug we decided we would swap out two of the injectors and see if that made a difference. So we just swapped #1 with #2, put everything back together and fired the car up....still had a miss. So we disconnected the plug to #1 injector and you could tell the miss got worse. Reattached the connector and disconnected #2 injector and no change in sound. So my buddy is dead set on it being a bad injector. I have a friend that may have some spare injectors I can use to see if that is really the case. If so it won't be until tomorrow that I can get them (maybe) and another day in the week before I can work on it again. But with this info now what are you thinking?

 

[mcglsr2]

The sensors are new, except for the MAF which is used and may need to be cleaned. Everything else though is new, less than 1000 miles. That includes distributor, cap and rotor, plugs and wires, TFI, ACT sensor and ECT sensor, IAC is original but it has been cleaned recently.

So today we tried a little experiment. Since we had power to the #1 injector and fire to the plug we decided we would swap out two of the injectors and see if that made a difference. So we just swapped #1 with #2, put everything back together and fired the car up....still had a miss. So we disconnected the plug to #1 injector and you could tell the miss got worse. Reattached the connector and disconnected #2 injector and no change in sound. So my buddy is dead set on it being a bad injector. I have a friend that may have some spare injectors I can use to see if that is really the case. If so it won't be until tomorrow that I can get them (maybe) and another day in the week before I can work on it again. But with this info now what are you thinking?

It could totally be the injector...but then why would the car throw those codes? I would suggest trying one more thing: clear the codes, and then try to start it/let it run for a bit, then check the codes again. If those codes go away, then okay, old codes, probably the injector. If the codes come back, then the computer is throwing them for some reason - so maybe the rough start is caused by the injector, and maybe the injector is bad, but then maybe something else is messing with the injector pulsewidth? I think what's getting me is the codes. Why were the codes thrown?

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

It could totally be the injector...but then why would the car throw those codes? I would suggest trying one more thing: clear the codes, and then try to start it/let it run for a bit, then check the codes again. If those codes go away, then okay, old codes, probably the injector. If the codes come back, then the computer is throwing them for some reason - so maybe the rough start is caused by the injector, and maybe the injector is bad, but then maybe something else is messing with the injector pulsewidth? I think what's getting me is the codes. Why were the codes thrown?

I never even thought about it until now but the other day while it was running we took the intake air temp sensor and MAF loose just to see how it responded to them. So maybe those were just stored codes and completely unrelated to what's actually going on with it.

 

[mcglsr2]

I never even thought about it until now but the other day while it was running we took the intake air temp sensor and MAF loose just to see how it responded to them. So maybe those were just stored codes and completely unrelated to what's actually going on with it.

Fingers crossed the codes go away...

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Fingers crossed the codes go away...

You can say that again!

 

[RichV]

Also try the engine ground Caleb. When the engine ground is corroded it make almost all the sensors read goofy.

Make sure there is a good connection between:

BATTERY -> CHASSIS -> ENGINE BLOCK

On my SVO I have 10awg audio grade copper wire from battery to chassis steel to engine block.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Also try the engine ground Caleb. When the engine ground is corroded it make almost all the sensors read goofy.

Make sure there is a good connection between:

BATTERY -> CHASSIS -> ENGINE BLOCK

On my SVO I have 10awg audio grade copper wire from battery to chassis steel to engine block.

Thats what my buddy Nate who has been my helping hand on the car has been saying as well. As soon as it's up and going again I plan on redoing the grounds, I've been putting it off for quite a while now.