Hello all I just recently bought a 1996 Mustang Gt convertible this is my first car and I am thinking about modding her but now idk if i should since its npi and my friend was telling me it’s not worth it since it can only reach a certain amount of hp.
Newb from Texas
- Thread starter brycelino
- Start date
Burninriverdiver
Well-Known Member
- Joined
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Welcome to the site. You came to the right place to find out what can be done with a stock NPI car. @96blak54 , @lwarrior1016 , @OLD H2S, @PinkieT, @Silver95bird, and others (forgive me for not tagging you- working off my cell phone) can chime in to give you some advice on making that power plant work well.
RAU03MACH
Legend
Welcome to the forums , if you have any pics of your car add them in
Welcome!!!! We like build threads and pics!!
Just sayin!!! Lol
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Just sayin!!! Lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah ok the car isnt fast. Alright it dont have horse power. So what.... There will always be someone with more power, a faster car, bragging rights.
What you do have is a smooth sexy a$$ ride. Regardless of its muscle, chicks dig the curves!
What you do have is a smooth sexy a$$ ride. Regardless of its muscle, chicks dig the curves!
PinkieT
Well-Known Member
I have a 98 NPI motor. One of the cheapest power uppers is to swap intake manifolds to a Ford (not aftermarket Dorman) PI intake. It takes some doing, but good bang for the buck. I agree about the lowering springs. Makes a big difference in the stance!
yeah it sits like a monster truck lol
where can i buy the intake and how low can it possibly go
While I have a 2001 GT and came with the PI intake - I will say mine had the plastic crossover. One of the reasons I got my car so cheap 10 years ago is because the plastic crossover was cracked. I truly messed up going with the Dorman. There was a noticeable loss in power it was sad. At the time I was able to return it to Amazon but doing the job twice wasn't fun. I got the FRPP and all was good.
Make sure you get good gaskets (I used FelPro), and a torque wrench and tighten everything down in the right sequence. While time consuming it wasn't a bad swap and def makes a huge difference for the cost on these 4.6 motors.
The intake can be bought here.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/intake-manifold.html
Use code "usmilitary" for 3% off or search google for other various discount codes.
You'll also need the gaskets from the manifold to the head, a torque wrench, and gasket maker (as far is specialized tools and ect stuff). You can get the Ford OEM gaskets from AM too but I used FelPro from Advance Auto since it was cheaper. Felpro always makes a quality gasket and never had an issue.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/fordtake-manifold-to-head-gasket-driver-side-9904-gt.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-intake-to-head-gasket-9904gt.html
You'll also need a new alternator adapter since the PI intake changes it's location (I THINK? Can someone confirm this?)
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-upgraded-alternator-bracket-9904gt.html
Standard drops for a good stance will range in opinion. It's about how much you want to invest and what look you're going for. I used Steeda Sport springs and got a 1.5" drop with poly isos. I didn't want to go much more then that as I have long tubes and didn't want to mess with bump steer. Don't go super cheap on this route, but it can also be done at a fair price without going overboard.
I've seen guys go 2 to 2.5". Going that low you'll then need to look at bump steer kits and other things to get low like that. I read if you don't pass 1.5" you're good. I can attest to this statement. I simply couldn't go lower because of my long tubes. Currently with a 1.5" drop I have just over .5" of clearance from the long tubes to the pavement (BBK Ceramic LT).
I personally did Steeda Sport springs, Koni STR.T shocks and struts, SVE caster/camber plates, and poly isos. Stance of my car (I'm a vert as well, so added weight):
I will eventually swap the SVE caster/camber plates to MM plates. I don't like how cheapish the metal looks/feels. Some guys have cheap caster/camber plates fail on them which is a safety hazard. Some are fine. I don't like taking the risk but this was done so long ago and I didn't know better.
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I think you have a great car man, nice factory color also. PI intake for sure, and if you want a little more power put some PI cams in. 96Black has some detailed info on different PI cams and NPI specs. Search in our forum.
thank you sir and sweet ride really like the black and another thing i see that you have performance brakes do you recommend those ? because on my car when i brake i kinda have to stand on the pedal for it to remain still is this because their is air in the break lines or is it the actual pedalThe intake can be bought here.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/intake-manifold.html
Use code "usmilitary" for 3% off or search google for other various discount codes.
You'll also need the gaskets from the manifold to the head, a torque wrench, and gasket maker (as far is specialized tools and ect stuff). You can get the Ford OEM gaskets from AM too but I used FelPro from Advance Auto since it was cheaper. Felpro always makes a quality gasket and never had an issue.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/fordtake-manifold-to-head-gasket-driver-side-9904-gt.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-intake-to-head-gasket-9904gt.html
You'll also need a new alternator adapter since the PI intake changes it's location (I THINK? Can someone confirm this?)
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-upgraded-alternator-bracket-9904gt.html
Standard drops for a good stance will range in opinion. It's about how much you want to invest and what look you're going for. I used Steeda Sport springs and got a 1.5" drop with poly isos. I didn't want to go much more then that as I have long tubes and didn't want to mess with bump steer. Don't go super cheap on this route, but it can also be done at a fair price without going overboard.
I've seen guys go 2 to 2.5". Going that low you'll then need to look at bump steer kits and other things to get low like that. I read if you don't pass 1.5" you're good. I can attest to this statement. I simply couldn't go lower because of my long tubes. Currently with a 1.5" drop I have just over .5" of clearance from the long tubes to the pavement (BBK Ceramic LT).
I personally did Steeda Sport springs, Koni STR.T shocks and struts, SVE caster/camber plates, and poly isos. Stance of my car (I'm a vert as well, so added weight):
I will eventually swap the SVE caster/camber plates to MM plates. I don't like how cheapish the metal looks/feels. Some guys have cheap caster/camber plates fail on them which is a safety hazard. Some are fine. I don't like taking the risk but this was done so long ago and I didn't know better.
alright thank you
MyLittlePony
Active Member
Whereabouts in TX? My mustang might not have been my first car, but I got it when I was 16, and even as an underpowered 145HP V6, (I have since upgraded to a 5.0), it was pretty tricky to learn from. I lost the rear end multiple times on dry roads!
It was the 90s. ...not a good decade.
But I have discovered that at the factory height, with a factory bumper, you are still at risk of scraping the underside of the bumper on parking blocks, and certain road dips, MODERN roads, paved this century, in concrete! These pictures show that the car still has the factory air deflectors, or at least one of them. I don’t think my car made it through Y2K with its pieces. How has this car not had its torn off yet?!?
My experience with the underpowered 145 V6 has taught me many things. 1) limited slip. Thankfully, you already have it. 2) wide ass tires. Better traction. Good for braking and acceleration. 3) MY GOD! YES! By all means, get upgraded brakes! Either later model dual piston cobra/Mach/bullet calipers or better. These cars stop like crap! Practically every SN95 I’ve seen in a salvage yard had front end damage. Front end, because they couldn’t stop in time. My mustang has suffered this fate twice, both when it was underpowered, both with factory brakes. Does the 96 come with ABS, or was it an option?
Now then, these cars aren’t fast, but, c’mon! You’re dealing with a 24yo Ford! I would have hoped vehicles made in the 21st century would be a little better. But look at you... ...a convertible... ...all sorts of people are gonna wanna talk to you when your top is down! One of the most common is “how fast is it?” or “Is it fast?” How can you answer this without sounding like either a humble idiot or a stuck up wannabe? I try to tell them, “it feels fast.” Sometimes they’ll wanna know actual specs, of which, you need to have memorized. ...but when your daily is a Model S, how on earth can you act like the car is fast, when you know the honest truth? The Tesla feels slow, the mustang feels fast, so “it feels fast.” ...especially with the top down. Your car already is exempt from emissions in this state because it’s basically considered a classic to them. It’s a fun classic that you can keep up with the best stoplight to stoplight. ...just not a Tesla.
It was the 90s. ...not a good decade.
But I have discovered that at the factory height, with a factory bumper, you are still at risk of scraping the underside of the bumper on parking blocks, and certain road dips, MODERN roads, paved this century, in concrete! These pictures show that the car still has the factory air deflectors, or at least one of them. I don’t think my car made it through Y2K with its pieces. How has this car not had its torn off yet?!?
My experience with the underpowered 145 V6 has taught me many things. 1) limited slip. Thankfully, you already have it. 2) wide ass tires. Better traction. Good for braking and acceleration. 3) MY GOD! YES! By all means, get upgraded brakes! Either later model dual piston cobra/Mach/bullet calipers or better. These cars stop like crap! Practically every SN95 I’ve seen in a salvage yard had front end damage. Front end, because they couldn’t stop in time. My mustang has suffered this fate twice, both when it was underpowered, both with factory brakes. Does the 96 come with ABS, or was it an option?
Now then, these cars aren’t fast, but, c’mon! You’re dealing with a 24yo Ford! I would have hoped vehicles made in the 21st century would be a little better. But look at you... ...a convertible... ...all sorts of people are gonna wanna talk to you when your top is down! One of the most common is “how fast is it?” or “Is it fast?” How can you answer this without sounding like either a humble idiot or a stuck up wannabe? I try to tell them, “it feels fast.” Sometimes they’ll wanna know actual specs, of which, you need to have memorized. ...but when your daily is a Model S, how on earth can you act like the car is fast, when you know the honest truth? The Tesla feels slow, the mustang feels fast, so “it feels fast.” ...especially with the top down. Your car already is exempt from emissions in this state because it’s basically considered a classic to them. It’s a fun classic that you can keep up with the best stoplight to stoplight. ...just not a Tesla.
The stock brakes were horrid and MyLittlePony makes so much sense when he mentions front end damage. I actually almost rear ended someone after they pulled out in front of me. It was nothing insane (I have a 2018 F150 I DD and it 100% would have stopped with no issue minus cuss words) but with my Mustang it was scary how bad the brake fade and performance was when the brakes were slammed on. I also had my daughter in the car. That’s when I finally said I need to just go ahead and get the brakes done. I’ve been wanting to do it for a while and that sealed the deal.
I actually recently just did them over the quarantine. The stock braking system I completely overhauled just over a year ago too with new rotors, new calipers, new rubber brake lines and a fluid flush thinking that’s all I needed to do to get adequate braking power but the stock stuff is really that bad.
When I did this project over quarantine I went with refurb powder coated front cobra calipers, kept the rears GT, new front rotors as Cobra is 13” versus GT 11”. Went with stainless braided lines at all four corners and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads in all 4 corners. Brake fluid was flushed again.
Break the new pads in properly and the difference is absolutely positively night and day. I simply couldn’t believe the difference in stopping power. I will say you can definitely tell the fronts are doing a lot more of the work now which makes me want to redo the rears with a Cobra swap but not enough to drop the coin to do it anytime soon. In respect to safety it’s one of the best mods I should have done long ago. The peace of mind alone that I can now stop hard when needed is restored. Since roads are empty I tested a few circumstances when I needed to slam on them hard and no fade at all and it worked just as I had hoped.
I don’t know what your budget is, but it sounds like maybe the previous owner didn’t do maintenance on them if you need to stand on them. It’s all about what you want versus budget. Before the cobra swap I was really really eyeing a full Wilwood brake swap. It would have put me in the 3k mark but that’s how bad my experience scared me plus where i love you are automatically at fault if you rear end someone. Didn’t want the hassle. I’m glad I didn’t as what I have now more then meets what I wanted.
You could just do new stainless braided lines, new stock rotors, and a good quality pad, flush it and be absolutely happy with it. All in what your budget is for the project. I did my cobra swap with a target budget in mind and hit it doing some homework and shopping around.
In regards to your question on air. Could have air or may just need a flush. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time which is why fluid needs to be flushed as a maintenance item. Water doesn’t compress and brakes work on hydraulic pressure. Water will also rot brake lines internally over time. Rubber lines also become brittle over time and will expand more then what spec calls for also degrading performance. Look at them visually and see if they are cracked or damaged. Even take a picture maybe for us to see. You can also take a turkey baster to extract fluid from the master cylinder under the hood. Is the fluid clear like it should be or brown which will tell you if it’s bad?
I have details in the build thread in my sig of you want to see what I did and the costs. You could do the swap even cheaper than I did but I splurged a bit so I didn’t have to mess with it again.
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PinkieT
Well-Known Member
If you haunt Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist you might find some smoking deals locally. I picked up a complete JBA stainless steel exhaust system from shorty headers to the tailpipes for $100, a Flowmaster cat back for $100, Ford Racing PI intakes for $150 or less, used Eibach lowering springs for $100, Accufab 75MM throttle body and plenum for $150, BBK shorty headers for $125, and front brakes and complete rear end including brakes and 3.73 gears from a Cobra for $400. All parts were used but in good condition. Yeah, I've bought a few parts that weren't what they were said to be and didn't fit, but overall got a lot of good parts without breaking the bank. Shop carefully and do your research before buiying.
yes the 96 does come with abs, and totally the car isn’t fast but i do notice it gets a little faster with the top down. my sister owns a bmw 128i and it feels way faster than my car. also the steering wheel gets kinda loose when i go over 60 mph does anyone know what may cause this. I haven’t got shocks, struts, or an alignment on the car either
