Nitrous help needed!!!!!

stang4u2nv

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Hey guys i'm having a bit of a hard time with my spark plugs after using nitrous. First let me give a low down on what i got. it's 94 gt with original engine past 125k on the odometer. i'm running a walbro 255lph in tank with aeromotive adjustable regulator, 24# injectors and a 77 mm pro-m calibrated for those injectors. 1 3/4 longtubes PITA to put on along with underdrive pullies and Borla Pro X's mufflers and a mac X pipe. So i'm running a full NOS dry kit with a 135 shot jet in it. first time i raced it i checked on the plugs they looked good but plug number 7 had the tip burned off. this was on stock motorcrafts asf42c, and stock gap. so i decided to run a 71 jet which is equivalent to a 175 shot and the car is a complete beast, I replaced the spark plug with asf22c 2 step colder and decreased timing by 6 degrees and with the 175 shot the same spark plug burned of and rest looked ass good as new. what do you suggest, any advice will be greatly appreciated thanks. MUSTANGS ROCK.... :slap:FUCK CHEVY.
 

ryclef331

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What are you gapping them at? (the plugs) I'd suggest you keep your timing setting where they are at and step back down to the 135 shot for trouble shooting this. A 175 DRY shot is ALOT for a stock bottom end with that many miles....especially if you're eating plugs like that. Were the injectors new or used? What intake are you running? Is this a "spray in front of the maf" kit or does it t-off and apply nitrous pressure to the fuel pressure regulator? Get back to me on this and LAY OFF THE SPRAY UNTIL THEN!
 
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stang4u2nv

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Dude thanks for the quickness totally appreciate it. they where gapped at 0.40 when i had the 135 shot and the car only has the pro-m mass air with the filter that bolts on to the mass air housing and the system is teed to go the the adjustable regulator is not in front of the mass air, is after. also the injectors are used and they are 24#s. the burned spark plug happened with the stock injectors and the 135 shot, after that i placed the 24's and with motorcrafts asf22c (2 step colder) and still i burned the same plug. so i i'm not sure is an injector problem. i gave the car like three full passes on the 175 shot and at the last pass is when i felt the engine slowing down. also i got stock 3.08 gears because i want top end power not take off. thanks a lot i love the color on your car bro....
 

ryclef331

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Thanks for the compliment.

when you say the plugs look "good" you mean they weren't burnt off or are they a nice even tan color? Do they look like salt and pepper? You need to do a pull in like 3rd or 4th, pull over IMMEDIATELY and check the plugs. Something definetly isn't right with that setup.... what your fuel pressure with the vaccum disconnected?
 
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stang4u2nv

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Well originally i wouldn't be albe to tell you because i raced the car and then i drove it all the way home so the plugs might have changed colors after i drove it back. Anyhow i have my fuel pressure set like at 36 psi with the vacuum on, it was originally 45 psi but then i swapped injectors so i could feel the richness in the exhaust that's way i lowered it. I figured since my nitrous would activate at wot i wouldn't need a higher fuel pressure at regular driving. :dunno:
 
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stang4u2nv

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when i took out the motorcrafts asf22c they looked great liek new but with only some carbon deposit on the ceramic. i was reading here about the ngs ur6 iridium 2 step colder i don't know if i should try those, what do you recommend?
 
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stang4u2nv

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So i just got off the phone with a nos technician and he is telling me to try the autolite plugs gapped at 35 and to move the nitrous nozzle around to the other side of the intake pipe. He told he was looking at my intake manifold diagram (i guess they have diagrams) and if that one cylinder is burning the tip then obviously is running lean but the position of the nozzle might be having that cylinder running leaner than the others. just wanted to let you in in some info and have you suggest what plugs to use now ( autolite's 23 , motorcraft asf22c, or ngk's ur6ix iridium) of course all of these are 2 step colder because i'll be running a 175 shot again. I got a race set up for this weekend for 500 dollars with an SRT-4 or neon whatever they are god only knows, thanks for the input.
 
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stang4u2nv

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yea i know fucking bastards pull like hell on top end but that's why i put stock gears back in. raced one with a big turbo upgrade boosting like 25 pounds and me on the 175 shot and i beat him alright, by like 3 cars at a 50 mph roll, hell they fill their mouths up saying that mustangs can't roll for shit, so i just had to prove him wrong, now he wants to go for money and i told him ok i'll do it this friday. :rockyou:
 
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stang4u2nv

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well in this car i've used nitrous like 6 times only but i previously had an 87 hatch with a windsor swap 351 and i had nitrous for a long time. so i have never had a problem with nitrous and i never had a plug go out on me. also the nitrous jet i'm using now is a 71 from NOS and the jet in the vacuum valve is a 63 should i use the same jet for nitrous and the regulator valve? you know like 71 and 71 or 63 and 63what do you think?
 
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stang4u2nv

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Can anybody post pictures of their nitrous systems installed? you know Nozzle direction or position and has anybodya ever had this problem with one piston or burned spark plug. Could the NOS tech be lying to me i just don't want to blow the engine "yet" (408 windsor going in) any pics would be great, appreciated everyones help......PICS PICS PICS
 

ryclef331

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stang4u2nv said:
Can anybody post pictures of their nitrous systems installed? you know Nozzle direction or position and has anybodya ever had this problem with one piston or burned spark plug. Could the NOS tech be lying to me i just don't want to blow the engine "yet" (408 windsor going in) any pics would be great, appreciated everyones help......PICS PICS PICS

I run a wet kit on my car. Where is you nozzle mounted in the intake tract on your car? He may be right. As for plugs, I'd put some cheap-o autolites in there gapped to .032-.035" like the tech said. When you stop burning them up, throw the NGKs in. The tech guy IS right though...on a stock intake not ALL runner flow the exact same...so ONE could be flow ALOT better than the others and taking in more spray than the rest....plus if it isn't spraying straight down the path of the intake, that can cause distribution problems as well. You can moving it further back from the throttle body as well...this will give it more time to "spread" as it goes into the motor.
 
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stang4u2nv

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hey thanks a lot i'll try stepping the fogger further away and replacing the plugs with autolites 23. whayt fuel pressure should i have at idle more or less and should i advance my timing a little more to like 6-8 degrees advanced since it's now at 4* advanced you know safety. thanks a lot man i appreciate it. :drunk:
 

ryclef331

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stang4u2nv said:
hey thanks a lot i'll try stepping the fogger further away and replacing the plugs with autolites 23. whayt fuel pressure should i have at idle more or less and should i advance my timing a little more to like 6-8 degrees advanced since it's now at 4* advanced you know safety. thanks a lot man i appreciate it. :drunk:

I don't think you burning plugs is a timing issue....rule of thumb is 2 degree for every 50 shot. so about 7 degrees from say the 12-13 you would normall run...I'd say 4 or 5 is fine. As for fuel pressure, at idle vaccum off in a nitrous combo, I'd be looking for like 40-42lbs. What fuel pump are you running by the way?
 
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stang4u2nv

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I got a Walbro 255 lph in tank, but remember that my nitrous kit tees into my fuel pressure regulator, so i got to run a vacuum line no matter what. Quick question the system i got comes with a T and one side of it has a jet, just like a nitrous jet. Should that jet be the same size as my nitrous jet or should it bebigger, smaller or what thanks again.
 

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