No start and confused.

doc_phibz

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Have no start problem. did tune up, cleaned MAF, IAC, sensors. Replaced TPS and didn't solve so sent it back. Noid light would light for long period of time then go out so...replaced dizzy and no noid light won't light up at all. found No Start list online and went busy with the Multimeter. All seems ok, except for the noid light. Even get 12V at the injector plug. Any suggestions.
 

1bad95

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Ignition control module possibly?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

CC'S95GT

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Was your replacement dizzy new or remanned?
It's not uncommon to get a remanned dizzy and it not work.
 

RichV

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Do you have any fuel pressure?
 

Addermk2

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A bad CCRM will exhibit these symptoms.
The pip will trigger the ICM to create spark, but the CCRM won't allow the ecu to pulse the injectors.
 

doc_phibz

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Thanks for all of the comments. The dizzy was replaced with a new Rich Porter. I was trying to decide if it was the ECU or ICM. I'm just tired of putting time and money into it. I refuse to pay a mechanic though, lol. Yes I have fuel pressure (pressure gauge installed into fuel rail).

So, can I bring the ICM to a parts store to get tested? Also, for a '95, do I need the special tool to remove the ICM from the heat sink. From What I understand the ICM is connected by a 5.5mm?
[MENTION=8201]Addermk2[/MENTION]...I never gave the ccrm any thought, any suggestions on how to test.
 

toyman

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The bolt head size is 7/32". It is a deep socket is stepped to use with a 1/4" drive. I had to buy one that was specific to this application.
 

doc_phibz

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Well, I just got the ICM tested and it came back good. Does anyone have an ECU test/repair place they can recommend?
 

doc_phibz

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[MENTION=17379]castine[/MENTION]: Twice. The guy seemed to be pretty knowledgeable about ICM's. He did once just as a normal test. The second time he tapped on the ICM during the test to account for road bumps.
 

toyman

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I believe the ICM is prone to failure when it's hot. I'm not certain that a quick test will simulate a hot fail issue. Given all that's been done I would replace it especially if you think it's original.
 

J-rod17

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as was mentioned the ICM fails mostly when hot. I had AAP run mine 5-6 times in a row.

I was experiencing the same issues....I had a back pickup in the dizzy.
 

doc_phibz

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Well, I pulled the PCM and opened it up, and it appears to be fine(no burnt parts or messed up solder). Also installed new CCRM and still NO START, but noid light shows injectors firing which didn't happen before. Has rich gas smell now when cranking, but won't start...will start with starting fluid. Fuel pressure gauge reads pressure, but erratically jumps when cranking, and doesn't hold pressure when engine cuts off(never happened before and pump stays constantly priming when key in ON pos.). Also cleaned 4 grounds: 3 located on radiator/grill(?) core, 1 connected to timing chain cover; I didn't see any others. Going to install a new Ignition Switch. Its a head scratcher, about to give in and bring to mechanic.
 

toyman

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May be I missed it but have the DTCs been pulled and was the ICM changed or just tested? Have you cleaned the MAF. Verify reference and signal voltages at the MAF & TPS. Test to the sensor ground not the engine block.
 

doc_phibz

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OK, I had an AutoLogic chip attached to the PCM, and I removed it. Not sure if it's the new CCRM or AutoLogic being removed, but my fuel pump primes for only three seconds and stops, as it should. Done another OBDI scan (last time I did a scan, the scanner would just freeze half way through). Scanner reads 111 for KOEO, which means all systems passed. But has Code 512-Keep Alive memory Failure, and that's all I can get. So, is it now safe to assume it is the PCM(?) or still maybe bad wiring?
[MENTION=10841]toyman[/MENTION]: I had the ICM tested at O'reilly's, and yes, I cleaned the MAF.
 

toyman

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It may be the PCM but first test pin #1 on the PCM. That's the power input pin for the KAM. Measure the voltage between pins #1 and #40 or #60. If less than 10.5v wiggle wires while watching the voltmeter to see if there is any fluctuation. If there is +12v I would suspect it's an internal issue in the PCM.
 

doc_phibz

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It may be the PCM but first test pin #1 on the PCM. That's the power input pin for the KAM. Measure the voltage between pins #1 and #40 or #60. If less than 10.5v wiggle wires while watching the voltmeter to see if there is any fluctuation. If there is +12v I would suspect it's an internal issue in the PCM.

Not to completely show my ass, but how would I perform the test? Do I pierce the wire? or would the probe fit inside the plug?
 

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