Noob with a few questions

blown1981z28

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Hey guys I need some advice on my recently acquired 95 vert. The 5.0 has been topped off with a trick flow 350hp complete top end kit. It also has the junky powerdyne sc making 9psi boost. I have a whole list of parts that the previuos owner had installed. It has a pro-m 80mm Mass air flow, 24LB injectors, complete MSD ignition system, BBK 65mm throttle body, long tube headers, x-pipe, and a flowmaster cat back. I have some tuning issues. It has a horrible surge at idle. I am sure I can take care of that. My guess is the TPS is out of adjustment. I am sure the injectors are too small for the engine. My guess would be 42LB injectors would be better for my motor. How do I have my mass air flow re-calibrated for different injectors? I am not even sure if the mass air flow sensor is calibrated for the 24lb injectors. The car has some good power off idle. What are my options for tuning? Thanks guys for your time.
 

LAFENATU

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Send the meter to Pro-M, get it calibrated for 42's.

Install the 42's and the meter, get it dyno tuned.
 

SnakedMark8

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Why should he spend the extra money to have the MAF reworked when he can just have it tuned?
 

LAFENATU

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Because a tuner can't tune a meter calibrated for 24's to work with 42lb injectors. It's not that easy.
 

SnakedMark8

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Someone has been feeding you a line. It can be done and has been done for years. I couldn't begin to even count how many I've done.
 

LAFENATU

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SnakedMark8 said:
Someone has been feeding you a line. It can be done and has been done for years. I couldn't begin to even count how many I've done.

What software?


:rollinglaugh:


Look, I am not about to be a dick but, I guess that is why Rick Anderson, Chris Johnson, Jimmy LaRocca, Jim D'amore, Bob Kurgan, Craig Radovich (Pro 5.0), Ed Curtis...etc. don't know anything and they use meters calibrated for injectors for absolutely no reason, right?

How are you going to run a meter calibrated for 24's, use 42's and make 450-500 RWHP and keep the meter from pegging?
 

SnakedMark8

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LAFENATU said:
SnakedMark8 said:
Someone has been feeding you a line. It can be done and has been done for years. I couldn't begin to even count how many I've done.

What software?


:rollinglaugh:


Look, I am not about to be a dick but, I guess that is why Rick Anderson, Chris Johnson, Jimmy LaRocca, Jim D'amore, Bob Kurgan, Craig Radovich (Pro 5.0), Ed Curtis...etc. don't know anything and they use meters calibrated for injectors for absolutely no reason, right?

How are you going to run a meter calibrated for 24's, use 42's and make 450-500 RWHP and keep the meter from pegging?

That’s funny, because you definitely are. And you don’t have a clue as to what you are talking about.

Nice list of names, you’ve been reading too many mags and Internet bench tuners. Some of those names don’t even belong in amongst the others. Do you know any of these people personally? Have you ever sat down with any of them and talked about tuning, cars, racing or anything? I have, can you say the same? They all would tell you that you don’t have a clue and instead of listening to someone that does and has been tuning for years you rather start some flame war to prove what? I came here to help out someone, point them in the right direction and try to save this person some money and you attack me by being a dick. You treat people the way you want to be treated I always say but when they decide to be a dick you treat them the same. It’s readily apparent that you have no idea how a MAF works let alone anything about tuning.

Let me give you a little back ground, those people you listed would still be stuck using the old methods of tuning by fooling the EEC’s strategy if it wasn’t for a single individual back in the early 90s. Back then tuning was a black art and even those that were able to do it new very little about how the EEC really worked. Because of this these people came up with ingenuous ways to fool the EEC in order to get the result they wanted. These included the so called calibrated MAFs, the FMUs, TPS adjusters, MAF adjusters, recurved TFI modules, slapping in 160 degree Tstats and the single bank chip. The single bank chip had very restrictive limits because no one had cracked Ford’s coding. Ford offered a pass through setup that basically changed the fuel and timing at most. AFM came out with their pass through but it was still just as limited. EEC Tuner came on the scene and people took to this since it was the best thing out there but still the software could only read a single bank from the EEC. Basically they didn’t have access to all of the EEC’s programming.

Then along comes Jerry W a Ford engineer in the drive train section of Ford’s development branch. He was Ford’s calibrator, he wrote the coding for the EECs right up until 04. In his spare time he developed his own software for aftermarket tuning. Who else better than the actual Ford calibrator to develop a more user friendly software for tuning than that? And with his knowledge of the coding he had access to all the parameters in all the EECs. During his development of this software he traveled all over the US conducting dyno tune sessions. Not just to make money and tune vehicles but to gather as much data from as many different vehicles and different combinations that he could so that he could evaluate each and every aspect of his software and how to make it work or make it work better just like he did for Ford. While he was doing this he allowed curtain people that he trusted the use of the software in order to further test it and allow us to gather data for him. He taught us how to really tune a vehicle with the computer, not guess or trick it like 95% of those at the time were doing. During this time is when I also met Chris Johnson, Pete Campbell and David P. When I would set up a dyno session for Jerry to come out they would all fly in and stay at my place where you would spend 18 plus hours just tuning, talking tuning and so on each day. While others were still using single bank chips from Autologic, cookie cutter programs from Diablo and Superchips blowing engines and transmission up we were making history with multi bank chips and blowing the other away at the track. Those three a few years later went on to start what is now SCT. When they released their Pro Racer Package software it wasn’t too much later that these other tuner companies because backward engineering the software so they wouldn’t be left behind. To this day the SCT software can’t be beat. Sure there’s cheaper stuff out there but it doesn’t compare to this stuff. I’ve used most of what is out there. With that being said, those others that you have mentioned have all benefited from Jerry’s work as I have. I’m still in contact with Jerry and Chris Johnson. I just talked with them both a little over a week ago. You want to seal the deal? Call SCT, 407 774-2447, ask for Chris. Then ask him my name Lonnie Doll and he will tell you. While you have him on the phone tell him you can’t tune a calibrated 24 lb MAF for 42s, or ask any of the techs there.

Now as for the calibrated MAF BS, did you even bother to read my post that I linked above before spouting off? You apparently are under the misconception that the MAF is calibrated for the injector size. When in fact it is the EEC that contains the calibration for the injectors. I’ve seen way too many people think that just because the got a 94 Cobra MAF and a set of 24 lb injectors that all they have to do is install them and they are good to go. This is so wrong. The only so called calibrated MAFs are aftermarket. If you read my post you would see where I explained how these MAFs fool the EEC and thus throw off your load calculations in which throws off your fuel and spark tables. Then in some instances with automatic transmission cause them to shift erratic.

You are also under the misconception of what a Pegged MAF is. The Ford MAF has a range from 0 – 5 volts. The EEC maintains a set resistance across the heated elements inside the MAF. As airflow (mass) increases it cools the elements to where the EEC has to increase the voltage to keep the set resistance. That voltage increase is calculated in direct proportion of mass air entering the engine in the EEC. This is where it comes up with your load percent and why it is so important to correctly calibrate your MAF in the EEC and not by soldering resistors in the sensor. When the mass of air coming into the MAF exceeds the maximum output (5 v) you end up with a pegged MAF. It has nothing to do with injector size.

Now let’s take this MAF that is so called calibrated for 24s. What they have done is soldered resistors in the sensor to reduce the output of the MAF’s sensor to the EEC. So now you have the same mass of air entering the MAF as before but it now reads at a much lower voltage. This in turn make the EEC see a lower load and so it thinks less air is entering the engine and shortens the injector pulse width. This is how it fools the EEC. And now also your spark and fuel tables are off. A good tuner can make the corrections in the programming to bring this back to the correct load. The tuner can also make the changes in the programming for the larger injectors and rescale the MAF to work with the 42 lb injectors.

If the tuner isn’t competent enough to do this then he can opt for something like a MAF extender or Mafia to rescale the MAF.
:ass3:
 

nesqwick_05

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sadly alot of tuners dont care to do that much work, and try to sell u mafs all day long...
 

SnakedMark8

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nes said:
sadly alot of tuners dont care to do that much work, and try to sell u mafs all day long...

Very true and there can be many reasons for this. Just like you said, they don't want to take the time to do it right when they can easily just swap out a MAF and continue on. They then make more off you by selling you another part and don't loose time that could be spent on another vehicle, vice spending the additional time making the changes. They may not know how to do this either. There are many new and old shops that just do the basics when it comes to tuning. Just because they are Diablo or SCT dealer doesn't mean that they are a tuner. There are wholesalers that purchase a package deal from the performance chip company. In that package and it may be several packages, they received a various files for different vehicles. They files are basically starter programs that the whole sale company and burn into a chip or load into a handheld programmer. We call these cookie cutter or off the shelf programs. These are in no way custom programs but the wholesaler will lead you to believe they are. These dealers know the basics but when you hit them with a modified vehicle or something that needs real custom tuning they are not able to do so. That being said there are some that are also tuners but their knowledge may not be as advanced as others. There are a lot of shops that just tune on the dyno to get that peak hp number. Once they get there they are done (2 - 5 pulls) they move on to the next vehicle. They don't bother with drivability, just WOT. There's no tuning under the curve. You can see these vehicles at the track and on the Internet. They have a pretty decent hp number in their sig or brag about it to someone. Then at the track they get beat by someone with less hp and don't understand why. It's not who has the most hp. These dealers cater to those that seek that all mighty number and that's how they get away with what they do. So when you are shopping to a tuner you might want to ask them some questions first. Dialing in a MAF like this is best done at a shop since it does take some calculating and data logging.
 

nesqwick_05

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i Say what i said because the tuner around here is like that, doesnt wanna do things the right way, just trying to make a quick buck doing somthing he sucks at horribly...
 

SnakedMark8

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I can understand your frustration there. Some areas are just populated with those types. With a blown setup like yours it's best to actually have the vehicle on the dyno to properly tune it. Or at least someone that can street tune it with a wide band O2 setup. Mail order will get you close depending on the dealer/tuner. They can set you up with a starter program then you will have to provide a set of data logs and a/f graph for them to make the corrections needed.
 

Lane478

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Holy crap, I'm blown away by your knowledge and detailed response. There needs to be a "know what I"m talking about" icon in the sigs for people like you. Lessons learned, find a tuner, ask him what you need, and call a couple more tuners. If you do that, you will usually hear a line of crap if one tries to feed it to you. Blown1981z28, as far as your issues, make sure you have a fmu until you can get a tune. You will need 42 lber's and a good, and I mean a good tune. If your Powerdyne is showing 9 pounds of boost be careful that you keep from over spinning the blower. That is death to Powerdynes, and most 9 pound Powerdynes don't reach 9 pounds stock. You probably have a smaller pulley on the blower. I'm no expert, but have done a lot of research on Powerdynes. I also have the caclulation for blower speed if you need to know how high to shift.
 

Hybrid Freak

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Send you MAF to PRO-M they will take care of the recalibration just let them know hat inj's you are getting and get 42's. Get a dyno tune.
 

SnakedMark8

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Lane478 said:
Holy crap, I'm blown away by your knowledge and detailed response. There needs to be a "know what I"m talking about" icon in the sigs for people like you. Lessons learned, find a tuner, ask him what you need, and call a couple more tuners. If you do that, you will usually hear a line of crap if one tries to feed it to you. Blown1981z28, as far as your issues, make sure you have a fmu until you can get a tune. You will need 42 lber's and a good, and I mean a good tune. If your Powerdyne is showing 9 pounds of boost be careful that you keep from over spinning the blower. That is death to Powerdynes, and most 9 pound Powerdynes don't reach 9 pounds stock. You probably have a smaller pulley on the blower. I'm no expert, but have done a lot of research on Powerdynes. I also have the caclulation for blower speed if you need to know how high to shift.

Thanks Lane, I'm just trying to point people in the right directions and save them some money or from making the same mistakes I've seen so many others do. I couldn't begin to tell you how many hack jobs have shown up at my door step. They listened to way too many Internet Tooners.
 

SnakedMark8

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Hybrid Freak said:
Send you MAF to PRO-M they will take care of the recalibration just let them know hat inj's you are getting and get 42's. Get a dyno tune.

Did you not read any of my posts? Why would he want to pay to have the MAF recalibrated and then pay again for a custom tune when a competent tuner can do it in the EEC where it is supposed to be done? The only true way to calibrate a MAF is to reprogram the tables in the EEC. A so called "calibrated" MAF only fools the EEC. Do it once and do it right.
 
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