Oil Leak... help me out guys...

thorco3

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The car has been in the garage for the past couple months now and I've noticed a small oil spot the first time I moved the car. I've never had any problems with anything leaking and I'm not real sure where to start. The car has 50k miles and I was a little shocked when I realized I was slowly leaking oil.

It appears to be comming from the back of the motor between the motor and transmission. I'll post up a couple pics and would like you guys to throw out some ideas for me. I've never pulled a motor or dropped a transmission, but if that's what I need to do then it looks like I'll be learning how to do it.

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Downshift

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Rear Main Seal. They can leak fairly easily. I think mine, and at least 2 of my friends have theirs leaking. It is a Pain in the ass to replace. Usually you replace it when you do the clutch. Everything has to come off, tranny, clutch, flywheel, and then drop the oil pan at least a little at the back to get it off.
 
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thorco3

thorco3

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5.0wned said:
Rear Main Seal. They can leak fairly easily. I think mine, and at least 2 of my friends have theirs leaking. It is a Pain in the ass to replace. Usually you replace it when you do the clutch. Everything has to come off, tranny, clutch, flywheel, and then drop the oil pan at least a little at the back to get it off.

yeah, main seal is what I've been told by some others... well, I might just live with it for a while. I'm still semi-planning on going the KB route, so if I end up with that then maybe I'll just wait for my tranny to go out and replace everything ::)
 

Downshift

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thorco3 said:
5.0wned said:
Rear Main Seal. They can leak fairly easily. I think mine, and at least 2 of my friends have theirs leaking. It is a Pain in the ass to replace. Usually you replace it when you do the clutch. Everything has to come off, tranny, clutch, flywheel, and then drop the oil pan at least a little at the back to get it off.

yeah, main seal is what I've been told by some others... well, I might just live with it for a while. I'm still semi-planning on going the KB route, so if I end up with that then maybe I'll just wait for my tranny to go out and replace everything ::)

Haha ya thats probably the best route. I just have a replacement oem style clutch, mine has leaked for almost 2 years now and I havent seen any side effects of it yet. I dont think its worth replacing unless its leaking TONS or you are doing the tranny clutch.... you know. Probably wont have to wait THAT long with the KB haha.
 

95KBGT

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rear main seal.

you have to pull the tranny like your going to do your clutch to pull it.

Its a PITA once the old one is out make sure you put the new one is all at one, dont force one side in then the other. i used a 3in diameter pvc pipe to get mine in.

I tell everyone that does there clutch, that while they are in there put a new rear main seal in. just in case. they are like $3 at an autoparts store.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Forced induction on a car that isn't holding it's oil isn't exactly the best idea ever ::)
 
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thorco3

thorco3

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Jrgunn5150 said:
Forced induction on a car that isn't holding it's oil isn't exactly the best idea ever ::)

this is sort of what I was thinking... but we'll see.
 

95KBGT

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thorco3 said:
Jrgunn5150 said:
Forced induction on a car that isn't holding it's oil isn't exactly the best idea ever ::)

this is sort of what I was thinking... but we'll see.
PFT mine was leaking with a kb, never had problems. but once i replaced the clutch i figured i should replace it. you will be fine.
 

Whistler98

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thorco3 said:
Jrgunn5150 said:
Forced induction on a car that isn't holding it's oil isn't exactly the best idea ever ::)

this is sort of what I was thinking... but we'll see.

As long as it is not leaking to bad you will be fine. My car leaks on cold starts until it gets to operating temp where the oil cooler goes into the block. If it is really hot in the summer it doesn't leak at all. I just slide cardboard under there until I get it warmed up. lol I'll get around to fixing it but it really doesn't leak that bad so if I have to add alittle oil before my oil change it doesn't bother me.
 

95blackgt54

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Rear main leak....means clutch slip. You are slinging oil all over the inside of that bell housing. It's bound to get in the clutch.

Just give up.....and go buy a new clutch, flywheel, and seals(their are 2 diffrent seals to be installed, but in the same location) Be sure to have some RTV!

Get it all apart, pull the rear cover off the block, push old seals out and clean off, RTV rear cover and replace with out seals. When cover is bolted, take inner seal, lube well and try to get it started. Take the flywheel bolts with some large washers and start running them in. This will walk the seals in for a damage free install. Do the same with the second outer seal.

Now before replacing the tranny, lets look at the bell housing. There will be an aluminum tab on the outside on the passenger side. That tab just holds the wiring harness to the tranny. This tab makes getting the tranny up under the floor pan close, and getting the input shaft started a real pain in the ass!
CUTTING this tab off will make installing and unintalling the tranny a less of a headache. You can zip tie the harness to something else. Keep in mind to stay clear of heat.

I've done this more times then I can count. T45's keep me busy.
 

95KBGT

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good tips man, ya that tab was a PITA when i was putting my world class t5 back in..good grief what a hassle
 

Steven

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if its leaking slightly, then you should be able to live with it. It's a 5.0 it WILL leak oil from the rear main, i don't know a 5.0 that doesn't. All 10 5.0 cars i've had leaked oil from the rear main.. just kind of how they are i guess
 
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thorco3

thorco3

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96blackgt54 said:
Rear main leak....means clutch slip. You are slinging oil all over the inside of that bell housing. It's bound to get in the clutch.

Just give up.....and go buy a new clutch, flywheel, and seals(their are 2 diffrent seals to be installed, but in the same location) Be sure to have some RTV!

Get it all apart, pull the rear cover off the block, push old seals out and clean off, RTV rear cover and replace with out seals. When cover is bolted, take inner seal, lube well and try to get it started. Take the flywheel bolts with some large washers and start running them in. This will walk the seals in for a damage free install. Do the same with the second outer seal.

Now before replacing the tranny, lets look at the bell housing. There will be an aluminum tab on the outside on the passenger side. That tab just holds the wiring harness to the tranny. This tab makes getting the tranny up under the floor pan close, and getting the input shaft started a real pain in the ass!
CUTTING this tab off will make installing and unintalling the tranny a less of a headache. You can zip tie the harness to something else. Keep in mind to stay clear of heat.

I've done this more times then I can count. T45's keep me busy.

anybody else care to chime in on this... I haven't noticed any problems with my my clutch but with the help of some more knowledgable friends I should be able to replace everything myself.

I really would like to stop the leak, this car has never leaked anything in the past.

of course doing all of this will surely set me back from getting a kb that much longer...
 

95KBGT

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if your looking for 100% from your clutch your not getting it. thats the biggest reason i changed my clutch and seal cause when i got on it the clutch would start slipping. Sure enough pulled everything out and oil was all over the inside.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Throw a KB on it with an oily clutch and it'll slip, lol.

I know dude, that you don't want to get set back, and that you have probably been saving a long time, but, wouldn't you rather do it right? I mean, maybe you put the blower on there and it will be just dandy for 100k, but maybe not. That's just my own .02, I wouldn't put a blower on a car that needed a tune up either.
 

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