Oil temp gauge still not working

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Daryl

Daryl

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The unit came with bezel I bought from Maximum95 recently when he was parting out his car. It’s an AutoMeter. The other is an AEM air:fuel
 

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ttocs

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looking at the autometer schematics they only show one wire so that should not be it. You showed that the ring terminal was crimped to the insulation, the new one is crimped to the wire correct?
 

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I use Autometer gauges in my Cobra and the Oil Temp. gauge needs to have 12v feed and one to the sender. There will be a third one for light if you want. Testing the gauge is easy, key-on, ground the sender wire while watching the gauge and it should peg. You need to have the gauge wired correctly to test. So, even if you had 12v. key-on power to the gauge you can test by grounding the sender terminal (at the gauge) while watching and it should peg. If the gauge test works, but not from the sender wire (engine) then you have a break between enging and gauge sender wire.
 
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Daryl

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looking at the autometer schematics they only show one wire so that should not be it. You showed that the ring terminal was crimped to the insulation, the new one is crimped to the wire correct?
Yes
 
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Daryl

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I use Autometer gauges in my Cobra and the Oil Temp. gauge needs to have 12v feed and one to the sender. There will be a third one for light if you want. Testing the gauge is easy, key-on, ground the sender wire while watching the gauge and it should peg. You need to have the gauge wired correctly to test. So, even if you had 12v. key-on power to the gauge you can test by grounding the sender terminal (at the gauge) while watching and it should peg. If the gauge test works, but not from the sender wire (engine) then you have a break between enging and gauge sender wire.
Cool, thank you weendoggy! I have a volt meter but I don’t know how to do any of what you just described. Probably have to run it by my shop. They’ll know how to sort through all that. Cheers and thanks again!
 

ttocs

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Cool, thank you weendoggy! I have a volt meter but I don’t know how to do any of what you just described. Probably have to run it by my shop. They’ll know how to sort through all that. Cheers and thanks again!
1. turn key on and verify that gauge does something/powers up.
2. take the white wire going to the sender and ground it and the gauge should go all the way up.

No meter needed.
 

weendoggy

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1. turn key on and verify that gauge does something/powers up.
2. take the white wire going to the sender and ground it and the gauge should go all the way up.

No meter needed.
Or...use a small wire for jumper, connect to Bat+ circuit (any off the fuse panel will work) and connect the other end to the IGN side of the gauge. Take another wire and connect to the S terminal of the gauge (sender) and touch to ground momentarily. Gauge should peg. You can do this test on or off the car. Do this without any wires on the chassis connected to the gauge. It just verifies the gauge works. Don't even need a key for this test. :)
 

Adfalenski

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Is there too much sealant? The case of the sender provides the ground for the sender. Try attaching a wire from the sender case to a good ground and check the gauge. If it works clean off most of the sealant on the fittings and try again.
 
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Daryl

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Is there too much sealant? The case of the sender provides the ground for the sender. Try attaching a wire from the sender case to a good ground and check the gauge. If it works clean off most of the sealant on the fittings and try again.
Sealant? There’s the blue thread tape that you’re supposed to use for parts connecting oil. But I don’t recall any sealant. Did I miss something? Please advise… and thanks!
 

ttocs

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As he said it could still be a bad ground connection even though they do not have a seperate ground for the sender. Just try like he said and wrap a piece of wire around the senders body/lower section and then ground that wire and see if it helps.
 

cobrajeff96

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That sealant probably won't have any negative effect. It's there to fill the troughs of the threads, and the sharp edges or crests of the threads will still make metal/metal contact.
 

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