pi swap setup question???????

voidfinger · Sep 12, 2007

Jrgunn5150 said:
The 427 cammer is a SOHC 2v :drunk:

You sure its not a dohc like the promo motor?

imp2:

1996mustangGT · Sep 12, 2007

lol nope want a boss 429 rep

or a 610ci 10.0 L

josh0092002 · Sep 12, 2007

well my point is i want to keep my 2v, and over time put alot of money into.(like i said over time). i just want to do my homework and get it right the first time, and not have to waste any money having to go back an do something that i should have done in the first place. iam pretty much on a tight budget. so i really really want to get things right the first time, you all understand. so iam guessing my first place to start with is the block?? is the stock block strong enough to handle 400-600rwhp. or would it be best to find a new one?????

tajmas · Sep 12, 2007

The block will handle it, the rods & pistons won't

josh0092002 · Sep 12, 2007

yea i knew the internals wouldnt be worth crap, i was just wondering about the block. thanks man.

tajmas · Sep 12, 2007

No prob., but like I said above check out MPH. you'll learn alot about what can be do with a 2v, and what you'll need to do it.

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 12, 2007

I'm not hardly knocking MPH, but you still ain't gettin 450 hp out of a NA 2v, period. And in the ultimate HP number chase, you still ain't gonna top a identical 4v with a 2v.

tajmas · Sep 12, 2007

That's not what you asked. First of all you said you only knew what you've heard on threads or mags. . And you wanted to set up your 2v the right way the first time and possibly a power later. All I was trying to say was to look in the right place to answer all your questions right the first time, so you only had to spend your money once. Just trying to help.

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 12, 2007

tajmas said:
That's not what you asked. First of all you said you only knew what you've heard on threads or mags. . And you wanted to set up your 2v the right way the first time and possibly a power later. All I was trying to say was to look in the right place to answer all your questions right the first time, so you only had to spend your money once. Just trying to help.

Who? He stated he wanted to build for 400 to 450 rwhp, NA. I told him it ain't happening. i never said I only know what I read, I know what I built, my shortblock came out of my garage, not a magazine or forum ad. Your statement for him to go to MPH kind of seems like a slight to us here, and I haven't seen anyone feed him false information, nor have I.

tajmas · Sep 12, 2007

Sorry dude. Thought you were Josh. Mph is a shop, not a just a web site. I was only trying to direct him to a proffesional who specializes in mod motors. I'm not slighting no one. Sorry you took it that way.

voidfinger · Sep 12, 2007

Yea if your looking to make 400/450 thats doable with a supercharger and cams.

400/450 wrhp doesn't even make it in the 2v mod motor world. If you were to build a truly hot 2v mustang the highest rwhp would be at tops 350. I think you would have trouble making 450 streetable rwhp out of a 4v n/a.

Now with that being said. If your looking for 450 to 600 hp. then that has been done multiple times on a 2v with a power adder. Just have to get stage 3 heads, Custom cams, ported intake, and a supercharger with an intercooler running 14 or so pounds of boost. That would = your hp wants no problem

For the block, the stock block can hold i think 900hp or so. Increadably built block...if only the top end was the same...
For the Internals, The stock stuff craps at about 400 Crank hp. you want to go forged and the cast crank i think is good to 500 or 600 i can't remember.

Anything else you would like to know? Other than this the most important thing to engine safety and longevity would be your tune.

So what are you shooting for? 400/450 rwhp or 600 or so?

Jrgunn5150 · Sep 13, 2007

tajmas said:
Sorry dude. Thought you were Josh. Mph is a shop, not a just a web site. I was only trying to direct him to a proffesional who specializes in mod motors. I'm not slighting no one. Sorry you took it that way.

No problem dude, and I'm aware of MPH as a shop, they are grinding me custom cams right now 8) They are a damn good shop.

josh0092002 · Sep 15, 2007

well the car will have to be built in stages, with parts going on as soon as the money comes in, lol. BUT the over all WANT of the car is a 500-550rwhp. i want to get the right parts at the right time as needed, and not have to double back with parts an having to come up with money, i do want a supercharged engine, and was really wanting a KB or a rootstype, or some blower of that kind. i know the forged internals are a must, but why type head/cams do u guys think will be best for the set up. and also what type of blower do u all suguest, and what type of trans is best, ill post what is more like my wish list, ina few days an i would love for u all to tel me what u think, or if iam going about this build up the wrong way.

voidfinger · Sep 15, 2007

if you want a possi blower then you really need to go KB

I would go with stage 2, 2 1/2, or 3 heads with a custom or blower cam.

Trans... up to you. Stronger than a stock t45 though.

reivaxtorres · Sep 16, 2007

didnt read the entire thread (too tired), but to whoever asked about the PI swap, do not neglect the dipstick tube. its kicking the sh!t outta me doing the swap this weekend. ive bent two of them already so now im off to find a flexible one from autozone tomorrow. damn dipstick tube is holding up the damn headswap. :lame:

voidfinger · Sep 16, 2007

yell at me about the swap? why is it so hard to do the dipstick????? i don't get it? Have you crunk it up yet? hows it run? thanks dude. I'm thinking about going on and putting these pi heads/cams to work since they are just sitting there.

reivaxtorres · Sep 17, 2007

voidfinger said:
yell at me about the swap? why is it so hard to do the dipstick????? i don't get it? Have you crunk it up yet? hows it run? thanks dude. I'm thinking about going on and putting these pi heads/cams to work since they are just sitting there.

nope, just yelling in general. lol :hammer:

the dipstick is actually my fault, at least a good part of it. seems most people (at least from the articles ive read) neglect to say anything about the dipstick. seems that if you want to take the heads off with the exhaust manifold still attached (easier than taking the manifold off with the heads still attached to the block) you have to remove the dipstick, except its supposed to come off with the head. well i didnt know that, so i unbolted the dipstick tube and tried yanking it out......and bent the hell out of it. tried to unbend it and just snapped it. :lame:

but......the FRPP head swap kit (m-6067-d46, a lot cheaper than trying to buy all the parts from ford) comes with a dipstick tube. well in all my wisdom, i decided to throw the heads back on the car with the manifolds bolted on....and forgot about the dipstick. since the heads were torques down already, i didnt want to unbolt them (would have to throw away the gaskets/bolts), i decided to try to fit the dipstick tube fron the top on the engine and ended up bending that one too. so now im stuck without a dipstick tube and either need to wait till monday to get a new one from ford (hand having to take off the exhaust manifold and the steering shaft) or try to find a flexible one from autozone tomorrow, which i kinda dont want to do.

so yeah..............dont have the car up and running yet. it sitting in my driveway, torn apart just waiting for tomorrow to put it all together. total, ive worked on it from 4-7 on friday, 10-7 today, and will work on it again on sunday.
the timing of the chains was extremely easy as well, i dont know why i was so afraid of doing it.

oh, and one other thing i dont remember anyone ever mentioning either......drain the coolant out of the block! after you drain the radiator and the overflow tank, there is still a ton left in the heads which will spill out all over the place (learned this the hard way) once you start to remove the heads.

some of the head bolts (2 on the passanger side, 4 on the drivers side) wont come out all the way until you remove the heads from the car. they will, however, come off enough to clear the block and you will be able to rotate the head enough to be able to remove it.

voidfinger · Sep 17, 2007

yea i got you about the other stuff.... i got the head change kit too and i'm worried b/c everyone i read said to get a flexy one.... i don't want to do that. So whats the poblem with it ?? is it just a bad angle or what??? i really don't want to break it putting it on. So when i pull the heads the manifold and the dip stick comers out in one piece? I might have to get some help on this...

O and do you have a tune for it or are you just gonna let the computer learn it? thanks dude.

reivaxtorres · Sep 17, 2007

voidfinger said:
yea i got you about the other stuff.... i got the head change kit too and i'm worried b/c everyone i read said to get a flexy one.... i don't want to do that. So whats the poblem with it ?? is it just a bad angle or what??? i really don't want to break it putting it on. So when i pull the heads the manifold and the dip stick comers out in one piece? I might have to get some help on this...

O and do you have a tune for it or are you just gonna let the computer learn it? thanks dude.

yeah, im trying to get my hands on a flexy one, but no one seems to carry it. ive gone to both autozone and kragen and no one has it, so i gotta figure out where to find it. my friend said he knew where to get one, but hes not answering his phone and its pissing me off.

basically the angle is a little off but can be slightly bent to work, or so i thought (we bent it too much) and the bracket is way off. if you can, i would suggest to try to take off your current one in one piece and just re-use it. im not sure if i just got the wrong one in the kit or what.

with us, when we tried pulling the heads the dipstick tube didnt want to come out and when we tried bolting it back to the head and using the head as leverage, we bent the tube, but that was probably because of the way we were pulling it out. as for the exhaust manifolds, yeah, they come out with the heads, but its a little tricky. you have to take off the midpipe, and when the heads are loose, on the passanger side, 8 of the 10 bolts will come out all the way, 2 of them are blocked by the strut tower. what i did was raise the bolts enough to clear the block and then lift the head and remove it. on the drivers side, there are 4 bolts that are blocked by both the tower and the brake booster, so you will have to do the same on this side, except i needed an extra set of hands to hold the four bolts and someone to lift the head.

and no, dont feel like tunning it either, so im just going to run it as-is unless i think i really need the tune. ive been running 91 octane gas for about 2 tanks now tho, which i recomend you do so you dont have dentonation.

voidfinger · Sep 17, 2007

yea i got ya, we got 93 here.... 87 89 93

anyway, i got a set of pi 5.4 L heads... they are windsors so i gotta get some valve covers, but i was curious, i got the heads complete but i'm using an extra set of pi cams and i was curious since everyone told me i needed to bleed the lifters... what does that consist of and what does that do???