Project: Cobra Brakes on the 94

[jumbowolfe]

Bought the amazon reman cobra calipers for $45 and change each last week. Going to paint them for sure, since they are of the logo-less variety. Thinking of adding these ebay, heat resistant vinyl stickers to them after ceramic paint. Anyone have any experience with these stickers?

Also, anyone ever use these off ebay? Seems pretty cheap for rotors. I'm not going to be taking this to the drags or anything, its just a fun car with some extra speed. The stock brakes suck ass (stating obvious).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-2-PRE...es&hash=item5d3b740882&vxp=mtr#ht_4882wt_1399

Also - opinion, does this sticker look manny, moe and jackish?

mockup with logo on there

 

[2v_takeover]

Bought the amazon reman cobra calipers for $45 and change each last week. Going to paint them for sure, since they are of the logo-less variety. Thinking of adding these ebay, heat resistant vinyl stickers to them after ceramic paint. Anyone have any experience with these stickers?

Also - opinion, does this sticker look manny, moe and jackish?

mockup with logo on there

Don't think that mockup look's too bad. I think I would an a "GT" under the mustang portion though. Just for some more white. Looks good though.

 

[ttocs]

you would be better off using the vinyl as a mask and painting the logo on which is not hard at all using the same decal. Clear over it and you will not have to worry about it coming off down the road.

 

[Walking Tall]

Link for the calipers?

 

[Burninrock24]

Just like ttcos said, paint the calipers white, then put the vinyl on, and then paint red over them. Then peel the vinyl off and you'll have a white logo. Clearcoat away and call it a day.

 

[Ferocious]

Link for the calipers?

+1


And I'm running drilled and slotted rotors from brakemotive. No complaints so far.

 

[RichV]

Stock brakes suck ass, but are used in road race cars all over the US.

Just had to get that out, get back to stickers on Cobra calipers.

 

[Burninrock24]

Link for the calipers?

+1


And I'm running drilled and slotted rotors from brakemotive. No complaints so far.

I'm not 100% sure if they are the correct ones, but rockauto has Motorcraft ones under the 4.6 DOHC Mustang filter. And they only have the rear ones from what I saw. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1042523&cc=1134212

Otherwise I'm coming up empty on my internet search, only SVE Cobra repros from LRS. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...-SVE-Cobra-Style-Front-Rear-Brake-Caliper-Kit

 

[jumbowolfe]

Cool, thanks for the tips guys. I'll definitely go the reverse mask route. Is there an automotive high heat clear? I've shot urethanes before but I don't think they are heat resistant for brakes and junk.

 

[ttocs]

yes there is a high temp clear.

 

[sleepn_sn95]

x2 for link

 

[jumbowolfe]

Sorry, forgot to post links:

I paid more than I thought, I paid $66. For some reason I thought I paid less. Oh well, still a good deal loaded, without core return.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C73X0K/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other side

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C71VC2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Ferocious]

So if I were to order those, what else would I need? Brackets, rotors, pads, and lines?

Anything else?

 

[jumbowolfe]

If you buy those from Amazon, they are loaded. They have brackets, pads, everything.

You'll need rotors and lines, and banjo bolts for the lines. Thats basically it. That link above on ebay to the rotors, i think thats the route I'm going, then some braided lines. The existing master cylinder should work, but from what I've read, the braided lines cause more pressure to be maintainted, so the pedal is stiffer (unless you go ahead and upgrade to a cobra master cylinder).

O'Riley's online has the banjo bolts available. From everything I've read, seems like a super easy upgrade. Here's a link I found on another forum that walks you through it:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/02/BigBrakes/index.php

 

[Photonfanatic]

My only question would be: What is the total cost of this swap VS just ordering a 6-piston kit from Wilwood? I'm sure the Wilwood kit is going to be more expensive, but enough to justify using stock brakes off of a stock car? Just something I've wondered in the past. In the end, if it was say... $600 more for the wilwood kit, I'd probably just save the pennies and get the better brakes.

 

[RichV]

If you buy those from Amazon, they are loaded. They have brackets, pads, everything.

You'll need rotors and lines, and banjo bolts for the lines. Thats basically it. That link above on ebay to the rotors, i think thats the route I'm going, then some braided lines. The existing master cylinder should work, but from what I've read, the braided lines cause more pressure to be maintainted, so the pedal is stiffer (unless you go ahead and upgrade to a cobra master cylinder).

O'Riley's online has the banjo bolts available. From everything I've read, seems like a super easy upgrade. Here's a link I found on another forum that walks you through it:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/02/BigBrakes/index.php

its actually backwards from what you read. A GT m/c with Cobra calipers gives you soft mushy pedal. The brakes are always there, but it feels like stepping into a bag of dogshit. With a Cobra m/c you get the pedal feel back. And you should do all 4 corners with Cobra gear at the same time. The braided lines are noticeable if you have old soft lines. Mostly under heavy braking. The eBay rotors are hit and miss on quality. But I do know that no driller and/or slotted rotors can be shaved, so be prepared to buy another set if they warp. I run blank rotors on my race car and never had a brake issue due to rotors. And if you truly want to upgrade, don't use part store junk pads and be sure to flush your fluid. No one ever flushes fluid on a street car, all my track cars' fluids started looking like Guiness Beer.

 

[Slykin]

its actually backwards from what you read. A GT m/c with Cobra calipers gives you soft mushy pedal. The brakes are always there, but it feels like stepping into a bag of dogshit. With a Cobra m/c you get the pedal feel back. And you should do all 4 corners with Cobra gear at the same time. The braided lines are noticeable if you have old soft lines. Mostly under heavy braking. The eBay rotors are hit and miss on quality. But I do know that no driller and/or slotted rotors can be shaved, so be prepared to buy another set if they warp. I run blank rotors on my race car and never had a brake issue due to rotors. And if you truly want to upgrade, don't use part store junk pads and be sure to flush your fluid. No one ever flushes fluid on a street car, all my track cars' fluids started looking like Guiness Beer.

I disagree with you here... When I switched from GT brakes to Cobra brakes on the GT MC the pedal got stiffer. Same for both my cobra and vert.

 

[jumbowolfe]

The difference is a massive price difference. Willwood is going to run you in the thousands vs this upgrade which is about $300 total. For the enthusiast like me who isn't going to the track, I can't justify a massive price brake convert. From most of the threads I've looked at, a front upgrade w cobra parts is a noticeable improvement over gt brakes even without the rears being changed out.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[RichV]

I disagree with you here... When I switched from GT brakes to Cobra brakes on the GT MC the pedal got stiffer. Same for both my cobra and vert.

That's really strange because the last event was my 1st with the Cobra m/c. All last season I had the GT m/c, and *****ed about lack of feel and modulation every weekend.

 

[Slykin]

That's really strange because the last event was my 1st with the Cobra m/c. All last season I had the GT m/c, and *****ed about lack of feel and modulation every weekend.

I'm not saying it has lots of feel with the GT MC, but I definitely wouldn't call it mushy.. I know mine isn't. Just stiff and lacking feel.