Project Sidewinder

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Well it all started out three years ago and to make a long story short I had to get my mustang rolling with a new engine. My build should be in my signature. It started out as a low budget rebuild trying to keep the cost of the engine below $1500 but that didn't last long at all. Once I put close to 1000 in the heads I realized everything I had to do to get the most out of that investment. I covered all my bases as best as I could: Intake, exhaust, compression and fuel. I decided that I wanted to have a crack at tuning the car myself with the Tweecer, let me tell you none of this was easy for a first timer but it paid off in the end.Exhaust: BBK longtubes, x-pipe and dynomax catbackIntake: 1993 Cobra port matchedCompression: 10:1 Fuel: 24lb injectors, 255 lph walbro, Tweecer ECU tuning module, Binary editor and eec analyser to make tunesThis is how it sits now on the new wheels. So now that its winter here I decided to do a complete suspension overhaul since it was long past due. Waiting to go on the car are the following parts I've painstakingly decided on:QA1 HD603 coilovers with 250lb springMM CC platesMM tubular front control armsSteeda bumpsteer kitSteeda front sway barProthane total polyurethane bushing setFord racing rear lowering springsI figure with these parts ill be able to lower the car nicely while still being able to drive it on the streets. I'm pretty new to the suspension scene but I really wanted something that I would be satisfied enough with to not change out a year later for an improvement. I have plans on taking my car to the track for lapping this coming summer and I want to be competitive with my friends. Ill be trying to keep up with a LS1 swapped 240 caged barely legal street car, twin turbo 94 supra, 350z to name the big ones. I'm really excited to see how that turns out. Let me know what you guys think of my build GeeTee
 

hottwheels04

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Nice build, but you should of bought a nice pair of aluminum heads instead of spending $1,000 on ported gt40's, and or went with a bigger cam, your gonna need some decent power to even see the tail lights of a gutted 240sx with a ls1 swap and the twin turbo supra
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Ya the Supra was a non turbo converted to stock 2JZ twin turbo engine bolted to the NA tranny. The LS1 240 without a doubt will be faster. Ill be playing around with a lot more unimpressive cars also. This will be my first year road racing and I just want to be able to have fun.
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Ya I'm starting to realize I could have aluminium heads for that price which would have saved substantial weight up front. The dyno will be the true test of these heads I have high hopes they will perform, until then I'll reserve final judgement on the GT40P. I also realize now that the cam I choose is a little mild for racing and will make it difficult to reach 300WHP even with good heads. I got the cam for dirt cheap along with all the other FRPP stuff, my uncle was a Ford SVT dealer.

Easy enough to change a cam to something like an Anderson Ford. Check out this thread where TooSloo made an easy 300+ with my heads with less work and a different cam

http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=100371
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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Here's how it sits with everything done. The front is completely height adjustable but the back is stuck at that height until I change the springs or something else. Overall a little disapointed in the ride height with the ford racing springs. I could slam the front but I'm trying to avoid the raked look.

How much does it look lowered?
 

94RedGt

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It looks about right, u can always cut the dead coil in the front and lower it maybe half an inch more, do the same for the back. If ur going to roadrace get some coilovers atleast, u can get away with one of those sleeve on kits from Maximun Motorsports that way u have full adjustability for the front so u can find whats the best setting, remember slammed does not always mean better. To me it looks fine for street use, not too 4x4 but not to low that it would scrape everywere. U can always get stiffer and better swaybars and better adjustable shocks and struts along with some poly bushings for the control arms, it should handle plenty good. Oh and a panhard bar for the rear should make things alot better, its a bolton kit that will not set u back more than 400 dollars, and it will keep the rear axle in place.
 
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GeeTeeFiveOh

GeeTeeFiveOh

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It looks about right, u can always cut the dead coil in the front and lower it maybe half an inch more, do the same for the back. If ur going to roadrace get some coilovers atleast, u can get away with one of those sleeve on kits from Maximun Motorsports that way u have full adjustability for the front so u can find whats the best setting, remember slammed does not always mean better. To me it looks fine for street use, not too 4x4 but not to low that it would scrape everywere. U can always get stiffer and better swaybars and better adjustable shocks and struts along with some poly bushings for the control arms, it should handle plenty good. Oh and a panhard bar for the rear should make things alot better, its a bolton kit that will not set u back more than 400 dollars, and it will keep the rear axle in place.

Thanks for the input. I got the front coilovers already and I can lower the front but I want to avoid the raked look. In the end I will have 03-04 cobra IRS so I wont be spending any money on the rear set up until the IRS is in.

The ride height its at now gives me zero problems with speed bumps inclined driveways etc. the 250lb spring rates with low bump stiffness gives a decent ride also and with stiff bump stiffness its stiffer than stiff and drives on rails.

How badly does removing the rear spring ISO affect NVH and handling?
 

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