PUSH BUTTON START ON AN SN95???

bcLVSn95

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Is it possiable? I"ve seen the kits for the 05 and up, but nothing for an Sn95. I"ve searched the forums here and on numerous other sites, and can't find ####. Any one done this? A write up would be awesome!! Thanks!
 

Nater

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Yes, I have, and also made a writeup somewhere here....but just in case....
Hey guys, it was easier than I thought....Going off the Chilton's wiring schematic, I was able to get it to work....Don't have any pics, but it was fairly straight forward. I HAVE NOT STARTED THE CAR USING THE NEW SWITCHES BECAUSE IT IS STILL PRETTY MUCH APART DUE TO A TRANSMISSION SWAP. IF I HAVE TO CHANGE SOMETHING IN HERE I WILL.Here it goes.....
*****NOTE NOT ALL MODELS AND YEARS WILL USE THE SAME WIRE COLOR CODING! THIS GUIDE WAS BASED OFF A 1997 GT CONVERTIBLE******

1. VERY IMPORTANT!!!! DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING!!!!
2.The first thing you will need do is remove the plastic kick panel and lower cover for the steering colum. This will make it easier to work around.
3. I already had my driver's seat removed, so it was a little easier for me, but you will need to lay on you back unless you are really good contortionist.
4. The ignition control is bolted to the middle part of the steering colum. It is held up by to Torx style screws. With the key in the "ON" postion remove those two bolts. This will allow the entire connector to move around, which is easier to get to the correct wire.
5. Here is where you can choose to what you want to do....With mine, even if you have the key in the "ON" position it will not mean that you can just push the start button and the car will run. I have a little "saftey" switch wired between the push button start. You need to flip that switch first before the push button becomes "hot". The way this was accomplished was finding a wire on the ignition that was hot only when the key was in the on postion, and splicing another wire into that. This happened to be a brown/pink wire. From there I ran the new wire to the safety switch, and from the safety switch to one terminal on the push button. Now go back to the ignition harness and find the White/Pink wire. That was the only wire on the entire harness that I found became hot only when the key was turned to the start postion.... Double checking that against the Chilton's, i am believing that that is the correct one. Since I did not want to use the key any more to start the car, I cut the wire with enough room that if I wanted to return it to stock I could using butt connectors....I ran a new wire going from the push button to the white/pink wire.
6. Since the car is still in the middle of a transmission swap this is all based off of me testing with the ground on the started unplugged. To test if the new setup worked or not I hooked the battery back up, turned the key to the on postion and had a friend under the car with a continuity tester. I then tried to start the car with the key and no light on the tester....Good.....Next tried the push button start, and voila....the light on the tester came on....To double check, I turned off the saftey switch, and pushed the button....no light....turned the switch back on and....light....So I am fairly confident that the push button will work.

pic of the button...
med_gallery_926_517_62477.jpg
 

cntchds

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I have one too. I don't think I have any pictures yet, but I can take some when I get home.
 

NERD

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I also have PBS w. a pats relocation into the center console. I was inspired by the new Zo6.
 

Blind

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sxynerd said:
I also have PBS w. a pats relocation into the center console. I was inspired by the new Zo6.

any pictures or description of how you did that?

I have a pbs right now, but I still use the key to unlock the steering column and move it to run.
 

duff daddy

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A PATS key is the chip key basically. and to relocate it means you just put the pick up for the signal fro mthe key some where else, most are located on the steering column like the SKIM keys or sentery key from chrysler/dodge/jeep
 

cntchds

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Still there. It needs to be used to unlock the steering column. That's my main complaint, because that makes the button just another thing that can go wrong; not something that is really that cool.
 

essasin

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I have one. I disabled my key. I used a switch to turn on power, another to engage the ignition and a push button. I got a hold of the schematics and went at it.
 

cntchds

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Could you show me how to do that? I would love to do that, since the key for my ignition and my door are different anyway, I would love to get rid of the ignition key, or figure out how to wire a key switch in along the ignition wire so I can still have a bit of safety.
 

cntchds

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Something like that would be such a hassle though. I just want a couple switches, a key to enable the button, and push it to start.

I want to use something like this for the key

31s4DpKrxRL._SL500_AA250_.jpg
 

dafizuck

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cntchds said:
Something like that would be such a hassle though. I just want a couple switches, a key to enable the button, and push it to start.

I want to use something like this for the key

31s4DpKrxRL._SL500_AA250_.jpg

Why have a key when you could just use your original key... not really getting the purpose of all this.
 

Blind

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this guy selling RFID passive keyless entry stuff eliminated the ignition switch on his civic, watch the video until he starts the car -

passive keyless entry

this is basically what I'd like to have in my car, except with the engine start button hidden and not labeled.
 

cntchds

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Why have a key?

Just some extra security. It's just another switch, really, and the thing I hate the most about the button is the fact that it really doesn't do anything that I couldn't still do with my key. With this additional key switch, I could "lock" it when I'm in a place that I don't feel is safe to leave my car with the "keys in the ignition" per se.
 

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