Question #2

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by Hicks, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    enyways... now that i gues im regular here... myspace forums dont cut it

    Im building a new engine

    Its bored 30 over
    + the works... clean etc. new freeze plugs cam bearings
    blah de blah we are building a decent moter

    But my tranny is what im wondering..
    Somone show me a link or explain what a shift kit it. I KNOW what they do... but ive never seen one
    and + is there eny easy way to change the tranny fluid for a 95 GT automatic?? besides having to pay... im 17 and im not rich... the 2500 i got in my pocket goes into my engine...
    eny help would be nice
     
  2. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    trans-go shift kit all the way. I have used them 3 times in the past and they ROCK. You can get one for right at 100 bucks take it to a trans shop and have it installed for about 200. Thats about what I paid all three times. It makes a nice change in the way your trans will shift, firm strong and chirp the tires.
     
  3. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    thats what im looking for... lol but do you have a link or ebay it or something?? is it like a shifter? or something computer typish?
     
  4. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    no, what the kit consist of is ..........SPRINGS ( small ones like half a inch long ) CHECK BALLS ( the size of a pea ) DRILL BITS ( to drill some new holes in the cover plate of the valve body ) and then there is a few other small parts but i cant remember exactly what they were. Here is basicly whats done, the car is jacked up, the cover is taken off the trans, the valve body is un-bolted and taken out. The cover is taken off the valve body, this is where most of the changes are done. After that there is like one or two springs that are in the trans that has to be changed. However the trans DOES NOT COME OUT OF THE CAR, the parts that has to be changed can be gotten too after the valve body has been taken out. The entire project takes about 2 hours if you have a car lift.
     
  5. Rantheman

    Rantheman Well-Known Member

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    I agree with snake trango shift kit all the way stage II you car will slip sideway in the raing with your foot barely on the throttle!!
     
  6. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    dude awesome!!! lol i wouldnt mind spinning out in the rain :D:D:D:D:D :hammer: :DD:D:D

    i always thought liek the b&m shifters were shift kits? gues i was wrong
     
  7. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    Well funny you brought that up, I had the B&M hammer shifter in it, its just a replacement shifter for the stock one. Its cool though because it has ratchet action, with bump gear shifts.

    The shiftkit is really cool get it as soon as you can.
     
  8. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    yea i will after the engine is done getting build

    BUT NOBODY has answered my other q...
    is there a EASY way that doesnt cost money to change the tranny fluid? i know it needs it b/c The guy who had the car didnt take care of it and i am fixing everything and i changed EVERYTHING sep that and its agrivating... and i wanna just wait for the other tranny that we will probly get for the car but it might be a hafe of a year.... so i dunno... i dont know how important or what. But its an Automatic 5.0
    i gues i could just drop the pan and change most of it??? or just let it be and leave it alone?
     
  9. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    when you going to do the shift kit? When thats done the fluid is going to be changed at that time. I was under the impression the shift kit was coming soon thats why I didnt say any thing about doing a fluid change. If its going to be a while before you do the shift kit, you should change the trans fluid and the filter too. I think you do have to drop the pan to get to the filter but im not 100% sure, I have always let PRO shops deal with my automatics........they are too easy to F UP
     
  10. 95-stang

    95-stang Well-Known Member

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    Heres how i did mine.
    After the discussion about the SN95 gearbox problem i thought i would pursue changing the auto box fluid and filter.
    First problem was locating the oil, its pretty well available in the UK, everyone from Shell to Carplan sell it.
    Basically your looking for Mercon ATF [Ford] or Dexron 3 [[GM]spec, its the same fluid as in the manual boxes it seems.
    I bought 3x 4.55 ltr [1 gallon] containers from the local trade warehouse, and inc vat still cost me £45.
    The handbook says the total required is about 13.6 quarts or 12.9 litres.
    I ordered a Fram transmission filter [it comes with a new oil pan gasket] and went about changing it.
    First off,get car in the air on stands,front and rear, on as level ground as you can find, [to help drainaige of the oil].
    The auto g\box sump has NO drain plug, so make sure the fluid is'nt hot when you start draining, unless you like the smell of cooking flesh !!
    Loosen the dozen plus 10mm headed bolts from the sump, i removed most from one side first, having a very large drain tray handy,
    and let most of the oil drain out of one side, into the tray. If you do them all at once oil WILL go everywhere !!!
    Wizzing round to the front of the car, [so you wait till most of the oil in the pan is out] locate the rubber bung in the bottom of the bellhousing,
    directly infront of the oil pan.
    Using a 24mm socket, rotate the crankshaft pulley nut, until you see through the hole, an 11mm headed bolt thats sticking out of the Torque Converter.
    Dont put fingers in to try and feel it, skin removal may or will ensue, use your eyes and a good torch, its pretty visible.
    I read some dont have this plug, but mine certainly does.
    Its a taper threaded bolt, so theres no washers to lose. While your undoing it, make sure you have the other big drip tray ready.
    A lot of fluid will pour out of here, so be ready.
    Going back to the sump, there's still a bit of fluid left in the tray, undo the last few bolts, and carefully pour the remainder into the tray,
    as you lower it down slowly,to avoid spillage.
    You can now see the filter, a small amount of downward force will pull it out of its fitting, theres no bolts\clips etc to undo.
    Undo the two cooling pipes at the radiator junction, where a third tray can collect the small amount that drips out.
    Here an airline can be handy to blow through the cooler at the radiator, then to blow through the pipes
    The top line on the right side of the transmission is the pump line out to the cooler,
    and the bottom line is the return from the cooler to the transmission.
    I left everything to drip overnight, but in between then the oil pan wants cleaning out. Theres a magnet inside the oil pan to collect metal particles
    and debris, some parrafin etc is handy for giving it a thorough cleansing.
    First thing this morning i put a very thin smear [and i mean thin] of Hylomar on the sump only to hold the new gasket in place.
    As your lifting it upwards, it means no sliding about of the gasket, dont use anything near the edge of the pan that could squeeze
    inside the pan, ie silicone gasket sealer.
    Dont forget to push in the new filter carefully !!!
    Lift up the oil pan towards the gearbox, using lint free rag first to wipe away any last drips from around the mating surface etc.
    Screw all the bolts in finger tight, then tighten evenly,they dont want to be overtight, it will split the gasket if you go beserk !!
    You may need a bit of PTFE tape on the 2 pipes at the front radiator cooler joints, to get a good seal, it wont hurt anyway.
    Tighten the converter drain plug up, dont swing on it, jusy make sure its tight, dont apply anything to it, and replace the bung.
    Then its a case of filling up, and finding a funnel slim enough to go into the dipstick\filler tube located at the passenger side rear.
    My method was put in 1 gallon, then start the engine and run for about 30 seconds or less then switch off, and your going to ask me why.
    Well if you keep adding it will just build up in the sump till it comes back up out of the dipstick. [ask me how i know].
    As the converter will only fill once the gearbox pump is running, this will move a lot of the fluid into the converter, and allow you to add another gallon.
    At this point i lowered the vehicle to the floor.
    After that its a case of adding until you reach the required level, best done again on level ground, dont forget to move the selector
    through all the gears before taking a reading.
    Its best done engine hot, leave it in Park, handbrake on, and while the motor is running.

    That might help a bit. ;)
     
  11. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    nice post ^
     
  12. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    yea... me and dad are still trying to figure out what to do with the automatic..
    we got the money for the engine... all thats set
    but the tranny is a diffrent story

    The engine will only hve like 320-350 hp and i gues 400 lb? nothing to strong its my first mustang
    (we r building a 347 stroker next)

    So i mean dad was like... just go get another good(used) AOD and put it in there with a stall and shift kit and your fine
    so i dunno.... im totaly confused on what to do... and i tried to go get the fluids changed but dad was like nono... dont worry about it we will get another one soon... eh...???
    confusing..
     
  13. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    if you have a motor making that kind of hp and tq, you might want to have a little internal up-grades done to your automatic.........im not sure how long it will hold up in stock form with that amount of power.
     
  14. 95-stang

    95-stang Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, i wound up having to do mine, and several people on the Mustang Owners were looking at doing theirs, but wanted a simple explanation of how to go about it.
     
  15. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    wow... haha thanks bro for the VERY detailed explination... ill save it to a folder for when i do it

    See i was thinking the same... i might as well build MY tranny instead of getting another stock one.. but then i might end up having to pay out the wazooo for getting the buildup done, less the tranny's are just simple to work on or something.
     
  16. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    shop around when you get prices on it, some places will charge you a LOT and others quite a bit less. Also make sure you go to a shop with a GOOD rep for doing trans work......I cant stress that enough, they also should put some kind of warranty on their work for at least a short period of time.
     
  17. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    i hear ya... just pray for me lol.... ima need the prayers so the car gets done right
     
  18. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    :angel: :angel: :angel: :angel:
     
  19. Hicks

    Hicks Well-Known Member

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    *looks at dad passed out on the couch* PLEASE PRAY HARD haha.... :help2:
     
  20. 95KBGT

    95KBGT Legend

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    in my experiences with auto trans, i rather take them to a tranny shop, i have seen people try to install the shift kits, and they never work right, or end up messing the tanny up. You could always find a cheap C4