I’m trying to save a bit of weight, and I remember that rear speaker shelf has two large speakers and two amps. I’m curious as to what will happen if I get rid of the rear amps, and move to smaller rear speakers. How does one go about doing that?
Question about rear speakers
- Thread starter ReplicaR
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You may run into issues if you're still using the stock head unit because it doesn't have a built in amp like aftermarket decks have. There will probably be no sound, or it will be extremely quiet if you take the amps out.
If you're already using an aftermarket deck, you can always run new speaker wire to the rear speakers and hook them directly to your aftermarket deck and bypass the factory harness and amps. You might as well replace the stock speakers with aftermarket ones while you're at it because they'll sound better. This is what I did with my sixer when I had it.
If you're already using an aftermarket deck, you can always run new speaker wire to the rear speakers and hook them directly to your aftermarket deck and bypass the factory harness and amps. You might as well replace the stock speakers with aftermarket ones while you're at it because they'll sound better. This is what I did with my sixer when I had it.
They are just for the rear speakers only.
There's one up front under the radio console that powers the front speakers.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
Deeplist I appreciate your vast knowledge in so many areas but not sure this is the area to speak up on. Just adds confusion as you are giving bad info that will confuse him.
If you have the mach460 system and take the rear enclosure and amps you you will loose the bass as the amps there are for the front/rear woofers. The drivers side does the rear woofers and the pass the front. At that point the only speakers you would have to play would be the 2.5" tweeters and it would sound pretty bad. You can replace the speakers if you have replaced the deck already but there is NO(zip/zero/zilch) to gain from running new wire. No matter what stereo you have the wire is already there, easy to find and will net you no gain in sound by running new.
Sorry, there was no mention of any mach system in the OP.
And yes, the quality of speaker wire DOES make a difference. Of course he doesn't HAVE to run new wires, it was a recommendation. Speaker wires vary greatly based on quality, price, and purpose. Speaker wire is described by three properties which determine its performance: resistance, capacitance, and inductance. Resistance increases with the length of the wire. The wire's resistance has the greatest effect on its performance. The capacitance and inductance of the wire have less effect because they are insignificant to the capacitance and inductance of speakers. Larger speaker wire (smaller gauge) will have less resistance. As long as speaker wire resistance is kept to less than 5% of the speaker's impedance, the wire will be adequate. Naturally, high-power audio systems using 2-ohm speaker circuits require thicker wire than 4 to 8-ohm applications would.
Here's a guideline that I typically follow:
16 gauge is good for tweeters
14 gauge is good for typical speakers
12 gauge is good for low power subs subs
8 or 10 gauge is good for high power subs
I ran all 14ga when I redid my stereo with Infinity speakers, cheaper/easier to buy larger spools of quality wire to do the entire car with
If you are talking about just basic wiring (HU direct to speakers) 14 ga is even overkill
If you are talking about just basic wiring (HU direct to speakers) 14 ga is even overkill
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
Ok, well I will agree that he did not come out and say the mach460 in his post, he mentions a rear enclosure and two amps under the rear deck which would be ONLY the 460. not sure why we are debating it but you like to debate I now.
Speaker wire - First thankyou for the lesson in review. Been 12 yrs since I covered all that in tech school and its about as important now as it was then. Speaker wire CAN make a difference in high-end SQ systems but with an aftermarket deck and an aftermarket 5x7 I will again say there is 0 sound quality improvements. If you are saying you can A-B some speakers and tell me which is using which wire I will invite you to make the 2.5 hr drive down and I will be happy to set it up and bet you $1k you can't get it right %75 of the time.
Again I appreciate your enthusiasm and always wanting to show how smart you are but I am not sure why you are making it harder for him then it needs to be? Are we really debating if this is a mach system? Do we really need to match the impedence of the speaker wires in a fairly simple system? I mean what is the impedence of the stock wiring now after all these years and how far is it out of spec that we can hear a difference? I am building what I am confident to say will be one of the most complex systems on this site and while I am concerned about the wire I am using, why would he be? Again there is nothing to gain from new wire except a lighter wallet, what will probably end up being some poorly done wiring and wasting a few hours trust me been there.
If you want to split hairs about what he said, he says he wants to save weight so why are you wanting to add wire? I mean it sounds like he is building a hardcore SQ competition system to me and not going to the track or anything.
Okay. I didn't catch that the first time I read it. My mistake.
Fine. Even with poor-quality wire, audible degradation of sound may not even exist, especially in short runs. I'm not arguing that. Running new wire was only a suggestion. I'm simply saying that there MAY be sound degradation, especially when using aftermarket equipment with stock wire. But I digress. Any measurable effects would be minimal at most and probably not noticeable to a novice ear.
That's fine. I'm not trying to beat my chest louder than you on this one Scott, I was only giving some suggestions. Take it away.
Musturd
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What I did replica was just ditch the amps and change up all the speakers I'm running components up front because I wanted to have tweeters still and kicker 5x7's in the rear. I'm running a 4 channel amp to power all my mids and tho . Like said its easy to just use the stock wiring that's there. In my old base model car I just ran 4 kicker 5x7's off the deck and they still sounded great.
I don't want rear amps at all. It's nice to have some kind of sound in the car, but honestly, right now it's no longer a priority for this car, as it's gearing up to be more of a track vehicle. I've got a daily, the sound is pretty nice in that.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
go ahead and tear out the rear enclosure then if you want. You will need to replace the speakers and the deck if you want to have sound but its not hard.
99GreenStang
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Aftermarket deck just shoot some new wire back there and install some speakers I did some custom fab and put alpine type r 6x9 back there also put them in the front .
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