Rear main seal?

[MuscleMustang95]

I just picked up a new felpro rear main seal and I was curious if anyone knows about how difficult it is to do? I know that i have to pull the tranny, driveshaft, clutch, and that usual stuff. But the when it comes to getting the seal out and stuff, is it easy or kind of a biatch?

Thanks. :happydrunks:

 

[Paul]

Easy. You can either pry it out delicately with a screwdriver so as not to nick the machined surfaces, or put a self-tapping screw in it and use that as a "handle" to pull it out.

 

[MuscleMustang95]

thanks dude man :TY:

 

[LAFENATU]

Be prepared...

I know you don't wanna hear this but, once you change the original - it will always leak, in my experience...

It won't leak bad but it will leak a little.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

Easy. You can either pry it out delicately with a screwdriver so as not to nick the machined surfaces, or put a self-tapping screw in it and use that as a "handle" to pull it out.

+1


also, i would return the felpro ($10.99 right?) and buy the more expensive one from oreileys. i used felpro when i did a rebuild. it leaked after 200 miles. put in the one that cost twice as much and have had no problems

 

[thorco3]

just did mine 2 weeks ago... as a noobie it took me a little while to pull it out, but the screw driver worked for me. I don't think my new one is leaking but I've still got a very slight leak. next thing I will be replacing is my oil pan gasket.

 

[Paul]

Be prepared...

I know you don't wanna hear this but, once you change the original - it will always leak, in my experience...

It won't leak bad but it will leak a little.

I've done four, used the Fel-Pro seal, and none have leaked a drop.

 

[98-5.0]

a buddy of mine has installed several that have leaked a little....i use the ford tool and ive never had one leak...i use the teflon seals to......by felpro

 

[ddrracing]

If your patient, and are meticulous about the way you do it, they will never leak. I've always just used the motorcraft seal.

 

[Paul]

i use the ford tool and ive never had one leak...

There's a tool? Where could on acquire such a tool? I want one.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

The screw trick works great. I put 4 screws in and just work it out gradually. Be REALLY careful when taking the old seal out though. I would NOT use a screwdriver as you can scratch the metal in there if you slip and then it WILL leak. I think that alot of ppl have leaking issues because the seal isn't fully seated or something got scratched or gouged on the metal surface on the pull out.

For the install of the new one. Take the seal to lowes and get a pvc pipe that matches it exactly in circumference and use it as a tool to push the new one in. I actually used a piece of 4x4 epoxied to the piece of pvc so I had a sturdy spot to hammer on and just hammered it right into place.

 

[94Pro-5.0]

i use the ford tool and ive never had one leak...

There's a tool? Where could on acquire such a tool? I want one.

in chiltons it says there is a tool, it gives a part number and everyhting, but i called ford and all of the autoparts places and nobody had heard of it.

 

[Paul]

I've always wanted a rear main seal tool. I've almost asked my friend to make me one on his CNC machine. I think it'd be pretty simple.

Paul.

 

[thorco3]

My Haynes shop manual referred to a seal removal tool as well, but I wouldn't know where to get it. I couldn't get a screw to thread into the seal because of the metal in the seal... and I was working with limited space (no lift, just on jackstands)

For installation of the new seal I just used the rounded end of an extension and slowly went around the seal tapping it in. worked great.

 

[98-5.0]

the tool i have is the ford rotunda tool.....you might not be able to get it as stupid as that might sound....and no offense but autopart stores are "dumbfouded" and cant even give a person a 160 thermostat if they had to let alone know of a tool.....but anyways....i got mine from snapon i believe ...if i lived closer id let ya barrow it ......the screw trick works but i use a screwdriver or a pick....to each his own....the important part.....if you dont get a tool, ill try to find out where else you can get it....is to just be patient....ive put one in before using a socket like 5/8 or somthing....and just softly tapping around it...just make sure its flush with the block....like the old one was....and be gentle seting it in the hole....you need a playing card something like that to push the lip over the crank...that is where youll run into leaks....is if you cut or tear up that fit...(where the tool comes in handy) but just use comman sense and dont rush it....and if your in doubt of cuting the lip....go buy another , they are only like 12 bucks.....ill get back with you on another possible source for that tool

 

[Schiffy]

My Haynes shop manual referred to a seal removal tool as well, but I wouldn't know where to get it. I couldn't get a screw to thread into the seal because of the metal in the seal... and I was working with limited space (no lift, just on jackstands)

For installation of the new seal I just used the rounded end of an extension and slowly went around the seal tapping it in. worked great.

There's enough room down there with jackstands... I've done 2 complete tranny swaps in my driveway with the car just sitting on jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

T5s aren't too bad to bench press into place with the car on jackstands. A TKO or a T-56 is another story althogether... Some people might find it easier to just yank the motor out to do a trans change. If you have access to a hoist it only takes a few hours to unook everythign needed to pop the engine/trans out in one piece. A load leveler is your friend in this situation. Swapping a trans with the motor out is one of the easiest things you'll come accross as far as stangs go.

 

[mich_666]

save yourself and separate the bellhousing from the tranny and put things back together that way....

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

I thought that was standard operating procedure for manuals. I'd NEVER try putting a 5 speed trans in with the bell attached to it.

 

[thorco3]

My Haynes shop manual referred to a seal removal tool as well, but I wouldn't know where to get it. I couldn't get a screw to thread into the seal because of the metal in the seal... and I was working with limited space (no lift, just on jackstands)

For installation of the new seal I just used the rounded end of an extension and slowly went around the seal tapping it in. worked great.

There's enough room down there with jackstands... I've done 2 complete tranny swaps in my driveway with the car just sitting on jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack.

oh I didn't say it wasn't enough room to get the job done... just a little more cramped with jackstands versus a lift or something. I just couldn't seem to get the screw method to work for me.