Rearend Question

Discussion in 'The Safe Zone' started by AJCrader, Jan 14, 2014.

  1. AJCrader

    AJCrader Member

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    I am looking to get 4.10's put into my '01 GT, and have 3 options

    I can buy an 8.8 with 4.56's for $600, see link
    http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/4251702285.html

    or

    I can go to a very reputable shop and it will cost me $825, then an additional $120 to rebuild the differential

    or

    I have a guy(racer/mustang enthusiast) that was recommended to me that will do it for about $225 if I bring all the parts, but won't rebuild the differential.

    I am curious which way I should go, I'd go for the complete differential if I had the experience and tools.
     
  2. TanTop94

    TanTop94 Well-Known Member

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    I am in the same boat, there are a number of 8.8 rears for sale around me, though most have drum brakes and Im not looking to downgrade for that. I have a shop down the street from me that did the 8.8 on my f150 and it perfect but it will cost around $500-$600. Then having a guy, who may know his stuff do it, but if you want the diff rebuilt you might just want to buy a new one if you can find out how well his work is just have him throw that into the mix. Thats a tough choice.
     
  3. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    First off do you really want a 4.56 rear if your not hitting the track that much. If not go ahead and rule rule out that option.
    Two that reputable shop price is steep and I wouldn't even consider it as an option.
    That brings us to option three which I think is your best bet. The racer Enthusiast lol.
    For $225 plus another $200 for a brand new traction loc unit plus the stick and change for a ring and pinion you would have a completely new rear.
    If your willing to spend an extra $300 you can upgrade to a 31 spline set up with new 31 sline axles and all. That's if you need it otherwise the $600 and change for a brand ne 28 spline set up installed by your (racer/mustang enthusiast) is fine
     
  4. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

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    Agreed with Opal 100%

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  5. AJCrader

    AJCrader Member

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    This will be a track car primarily, with some street use for local car shows and stuff
     
  6. FivepointSlow

    FivepointSlow Well-Known Member

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    If it's not primarily a street car I'd get the 8.8 rear with the 4.56 gears in it. Slap it in and go


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  7. AJCrader

    AJCrader Member

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    It's in the CL ad, but the 8.8 has a moser spool/31spline/axles
     
  8. SVTstang96

    SVTstang96 Well-Known Member

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    I would go with the one on CL. Yes it is $700 obo but you should be able to get at least $450 back out of yours. The complete brakes (calipers/brackets/rotors/pads/dust shields/lines/axle plate) should net you $250+, the axles $75, diff $50, and the housing $100+ at this point if you purchase that one for $600 or even the full $700 you will only be in the setup around $150-$250.... and that my friend is a pretty good deal!
     
  9. AJCrader

    AJCrader Member

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    I was just thinking of keeping the one in the car just in case...and might learn to do the work myself later on!
     
  10. SVTstang96

    SVTstang96 Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha, well even so in that case you still have an extra rear end, where in the other options you dont
     
  11. FivepointSlow

    FivepointSlow Well-Known Member

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    Be careful doing the work yourself.. Rear ends are touchy if you don't absolutely know what you're doing. Trust me I know my dads car was down for over a month because of rear end drama and we finally just bought a used rear end and slapped it in.


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  12. AJCrader

    AJCrader Member

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    That is the plan, decided to go with the 8.8, and just going to put that in...just going to keep the one I have and when the time comes, either put it back in as is, or build it up later on
     
  13. SVTstang96

    SVTstang96 Well-Known Member

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    Good decision, as far as rebuilding them goes; yes they are difficult if you don't know what your doing, if you do your research however and get a few tools they are pretty easy. The major thing is to make sure you set all the tolerances right when installing the pinion, and diff. Other then that everything else is simple, it just takes a few tries to figure out what shims to install for the correct tolerances. Once you get that done the rest is almost as simple as doing a brake job. Install a few seals/gaskets, put new parts in, torque them down, and then beat the hell out of it. well you might want to skip that last step.... lol
     
  14. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    just be careful on the street in the rain with that spool.
     
  15. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

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    I paid $900 for my rear end out of a 98 Cobra with 12k on the clock. It came brake to brake as well as abs cables and quads. Auburn pro, moser 31's, 3.73's and obviously cobra brakes. So the $700 probably isn't too bad. I'd offer him $600 and go from there
     
  16. AJCrader

    AJCrader Member

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    I'm getting it for $600
     
  17. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

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    Right on even better deal then man. I say go for it
     
  18. 99GreenStang

    99GreenStang Active Member

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    working on a rearend is like making love to a woman . make plans , take precaution , know what your doing , line everything up , have the tools for the job. :) now thats advice
     
  19. Addermk2

    Addermk2 Well-Known Member

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    You do know that the foxbody (drum) axle housing is the same length as the one in your 94-98 right? Unbolt the drum brake backing plates and swap all your disc brake hardware over...

    [​IMG]

    See the four nuts around the axle tube? If you remove those, the drum backing plate will come off.

    itll look like this (just not with the axle shaft sill in it.)

    [​IMG]

    Your disc brake backing plate....

    [​IMG]



    Will bolt right on.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    Huh, everyone else just dives in! :)

    Anyways I take it you bought the one on craigs, posting is deleted.

    I must have just gotten lucky. I did my 8.8 a few years back including a gearing change. I was told by a local mechanic that 99% of the time when changing ring/pinion, if the new ring/pinion is used, you just re-use the exact shims that were with the old gear set. That's what I did and never had issues or noises. I also did the rebuild, just the clutches, and the kit was pretty easy and complete. Got the Ford Racing kit with carbon clutches, hardest part were the last couple of clutches plus that center keeper. Maybe I just got lucky but I was pretty intimidated by the whole thing.

    I would just do it yourself if you have any sort of interest to learn it. IMO the CL rear is pricey for used, and a little on the iffy side. Could be beat to an inch of it's life, bent, etc. The $950 for gears/rebuild is just rediculous, pretty sure you can buy a complete 8.8 from Ford Racing for close to that price.