Replace fuel pump too?

[ttocs]

hopefully the white hose is just long enough to replace the black hose on the hanger between the pump and the hat. That hose is known to get brittle and when it starts to leak you have a real problem because you have all the signs of a fuel leak like low pressure except the fuel on the ground to show the leak because it leaks back into the tank.

 

[Musturd]

That plastic accordion hose is the hose for the fuel pump those ones suck and always leak so I use the rubber ones

 

[Daryl]

The black clip is for the stock filter. It's a "lock" after it gets put in the line. I think the same goes for the beige plastic piece. It may be the other lock type, not sure. The plastic accordian tube I believe is if you need to replace the vent tube on the fill port pipe-to-tank.

Thanks very much, weendoggy! I intended to research that yesterday but was swapping headlight ballasts for a friend that ended up taking all day.

Thanks again!++

 

[weendoggy]

Thanks very much, weendoggy! I intended to research that yesterday but was swapping headlight ballasts for a friend that ended up taking all day.

Thanks again!++

I don't think your year uses the flexible clear plastic piece. If you have the sender in the middle and pump on the right, you won't use it. That goes in the tank on the later years (like mine). Doh!

 

[Daryl]

I don't think your year uses the flexible clear plastic piece. If you have the sender in the middle and pump on the right, you won't use it. That goes in the tank on the later years (like mine). Doh!

I suspected that was the case. Thx!

 

[Daryl]

I’m almost done, but need a refresher please:
First pic: rubber grommet as placed or ???
Second pic: metal brace. I see where it screws downward into the lip of the tank, but does it go behind the filler neck grommet or ??? It’s got a funky angle to it.

And FWIW, I stayed with the original tank ++. Nothing fit well at all with the new one (Chinese) and that was with using all the news parts (also Chinese). I did end up using the new fuel pump, tank pads and…. Well, that’s it. The rest of the new stuff was junk!!

 

[Daryl]

Cleaned it up first of course. Didn’t go back in looking like this!

 

[cobrajeff96]

The filler neck tube you have to insert it into the tank in stages as you lift the tank back into mounting position. As you raise it, it goes a little more in (what she said). And make sure you WD the tank grommet while doing so. Is it an aftermarket tube or the original? Shouldn't be misaligning unless you fully place it in the tank before lifting the whole tank into place.

 

[Daryl]

Original

 

[ttocs]

and don't be afraid to spit on the grommet to help it get through and not tear it. We all know how a little spit around the edges can help it slide right in....

 

[weendoggy]

Took a quick look at my '02 and the upper rubber seal doesn't look right. I have a round plastic washer there and the rubber just might go between the filler tube and body. I doubt it just screwed in the way you show in your picture. As for the tank-tube brace, that'll come into position once the tank is in. I agree with others to make sure you "lube" the rubber tank seal-to-tube area prior to fitting the tank. However, if it's already in and done, forget all of this.

 

[Daryl]

ROFLMFAO!!! Ok, thanks guys! Letcha know how it goes (fingers crossed)

 

[Daryl]

Took a quick look at my '02 and the upper rubber seal doesn't look right. I have a round plastic washer there and the rubber just might go between the filler tube and body. I doubt it just screwed in the way you show in your picture. As for the tank-tube brace, that'll come into position once the tank is in. I agree with others to make sure you "lube" the rubber tank seal-to-tube area prior to fitting the tank. However, if it's already in and done, forget all of this.

Yeah, just placed it there for the photo. The rubber seal likely goes between the top of the filler neck and the body, then the 3 screws hold it all together (including the gas cap leash) from the top.

 

[Daryl]

The filler neck tube you have to insert it into the tank in stages as you lift the tank back into mounting position. As you raise it, it goes a little more in (what she said). And make sure you WD the tank grommet while doing so. Is it an aftermarket tube or the original? Shouldn't be misaligning unless you fully place it in the tank before lifting the whole tank into place.

In the picture (“ok, but just the tip, honey”!), I have the tank about 3/4 the way up into position, so I’ll drop it back down a bit and slide the filler neck in in stages as I raise it back up again. See how that goes. Place that grommet on top of the filler neck and then that offset brace should fall into place as you mentioned. Thanks, CobraJeff!

 

[ttocs]

don't forget to cuss at it

 

[Daryl]

Just did. REPEATEDLY! Buttoned it all back up. Shrink-wrapped the fuel pump wires AFTER butt-connecting and the telltale pull to make sure each end is clamped in. Put the fuse back in, reattached the negative terminal. Did 7-8 ignition cranks to see if it starts and runs. Nope. (insert swearing here)
It cranks and “wants to” but doesn’t turn over. WTF?

H E L P !!!

 

[ttocs]

you will probably need to prime it a few times to get fuel back up front if the system drained. Turn the key on and wait 5 secs then off, then back on again for 5. Do that 3-4 times and see if you just needed to get it up front. You should hear the pump priming

 

[cobrajeff96]

You hear the pump with key on?

 

[weendoggy]

As mentioned, the pump should run for a few seconds w/key on, or, you can bypass the relay and just run it until pressure is there. Now, it may sound like it's running and you think all is good, but, if you happened to switch wires on the pump, it'll pump, just not create pressure because it's going in reverse. I thought you had a FP gauge. If so, you can monitor that.

Now, all that aside, lets just say you have good pressure, next is spark...etc.

 

[Daryl]

As mentioned, the pump should run for a few seconds w/key on, or, you can bypass the relay and just run it until pressure is there. Now, it may sound like it's running and you think all is good, but, if you happened to switch wires on the pump, it'll pump, just not create pressure because it's going in reverse. I thought you had a FP gauge. If so, you can monitor that.

Now, all that aside, let’s just say you have good pressure, next is spark...etc.

No pressure readout on the FP gauge.
I tried starting it 7-8x then the battery pooped out. Jumpers got it “trying” to turn over, but no go