Replace fuel pump too?

[lwarrior1016]

Just fyi for everyone here, do not put dielectric grease inside connectors. It is not conductive, and can actually create problems. I have fixed many vehicles by just cleaning out dielectric grease.

 

[Daryl]

How do I hit it with 12v ?

 

[weendoggy]

How do I hit it with 12v ?

Unplug tank fuel pump at connector, so the only thing that will run the pump is YOU. Put one wire to ground and one wire to 12v battery power, from a battery stand alone. You can do it in the car as well, but you need a good 12v signal wire and connect the other lead to ground.

 

[Daryl]

Unplug tank fuel pump at connector, so the only thing that will run the pump is YOU. Put one wire to ground and one wire to 12v battery power, from a battery stand alone. You can do it in the car as well, but you need a good 12v signal wire and connect the other lead to ground.
View attachment 43106

I’ll give it a try! Thanks very much

 

[weendoggy]

^ I modified the diagram a bit so it wouldn't be to confusing.

 

[Daryl]

^ I modified the diagram a bit so it wouldn't be to confusing.

Thx ,that helps! By “chassis battery”, is that referencing the one that’s in the car? Or, if I do the other option (stand alone) can I use the battery in my truck or do I have to remove it entirely?
Sorry I’m so ignorant about this stuff. For some reason “electrical” just doesn’t sink into my brain :-(

 

[weendoggy]

Thx ,that helps! By “chassis battery”, is that referencing the one that’s in the car? Or, if I do the other option (stand alone) can I use the battery in my truck or do I have to remove it entirely?
Sorry I’m so ignorant about this stuff. For some reason “electrical” just doesn’t sink into my brain :-(

Chassis battery, yes, in car. If you have your battery in your trunk, you can easily use it. No need to disconnect from the system, just use jumper wires. Think of electrical as water, hydraulics, smoke, etc. It all functions the same way through valves, relays, connectors, etc. Easy peasy!

 

[Daryl]

Chassis battery, yes, in car. If you have your battery in your trunk, you can easily use it. No need to disconnect from the system, just use jumper wires. Think of electrical as water, hydraulics, smoke, etc. It all functions the same way through valves, relays, connectors, etc. Easy peasy!

Battery is under the hood but jumper cables long enough to reach. I’ll give it a shot when I get home from work this afternoon. Fingers crossed I do it right!
;-)

 

[ttocs]

you can use a bare spot on the metal chassis for ground, a bolt that is mounted to metal, ect. It goes right back to the same spot, just be sure the metal is clean.

 

[Daryl]

Well gents, I just got a decent bonus check from work so off the car went to the shop. Gonna “leave it to the pro’s” as they say! I really believed I could do this, and I essentially DID, as I was extremely diligent with the R&R and it still didn’t go right. I am SO mind-bogglingly frustrated that I just need to step away from the car for a couple few days and let the shop fix ‘er up! Also having them R&R the door hinges that I had powder coated but have been in the“on deck circle” for a short while. New fuel filter too!

 

[ttocs]

That is the best idea. I don't want to call people out but when they start asking where to find a ground/chassis it is just time to admit that wiring is not your forte and that is fine a lot of people have issues with it. We need to know our limits and stay with in them.

 

[Daryl]

That is the best idea. I don't want to call people out but when they start asking where to find a ground/chassis it is just time to admit that wiring is not your forte and that is fine a lot of people have issues with it. We need to know our limits and stay with in them.

LOL, my parents used to joke with me as a kid saying, “one of your greatest strong points is your willingness to admit your weak points!” No offense taken

 

[Daryl]

Oh, and the washer motor. It’d be nice to have it spray washer fluid on the windshield so I could actually wipe the relentless dust off! I’ll also be taking the car back to the glass shop. A handful of months ago they installed the passenger side regulator, but since then down is up and up is down on the driver side switch. I didn’t say anything at the time because he charged me next to nothing. But it’s always bugged me, so he’s going to make it right.

Sometimes it’s all the little things that add up to being such a good thing as these “fixes” will finish the car.

 

[Daryl]

Just fyi for everyone here, do not put dielectric grease inside connectors. It is not conductive, and can actually create problems. I have fixed many vehicles by just cleaning out dielectric grease.

Oh shit! I didn’t have dielectric grease at the time, so researched it and found out that petroleum jelly (aka Vaseline) is an affordable substitute. What’s the best way to clean that stuff out of there? Just a clean towel and a bunch of Q-tips?

Can it be that I actually DID reassemble everything correctly and it’s the damn petroleum jelly bogging down or killing the conductivity of the connectors?? Same reason it’s not even priming?

 

[weendoggy]

Oh shit! I didn’t have dielectric grease at the time, so researched it and found out that petroleum jelly (aka Vaseline) is an affordable substitute. What’s the best way to clean that stuff out of there? Just a clean towel and a bunch of Q-tips?

Can it be that I actually DID reassemble everything correctly and it’s the damn petroleum jelly bogging down or killing the conductivity of the connectors?? Same reason it’s not even priming?

I wouldn't worry about it unless you put gobs of it there. I've used this my entire 40+ year career and not had an issue. I've yet to find an issue where it caused a problem and if it was/is such a problem, OEM's wouldn't use it. Like everything else, sometimes more is not better. jmo

 

[Daryl]

I wouldn't worry about it unless you put gobs of it there. I've used this my entire 40+ year career and not had an issue. I've yet to find an issue where it caused a problem and if it was/is such a problem, OEM's wouldn't use it. Like everything else, sometimes more is not better. jmo

I did use a pretty good gob of it, admittedly. FWIW, there was a bit of something, which I presumed was dielectric grease, in each connector when I disassembled. I figured that’s all that remained after 30 years so that’s why I loaded it up. Good intentions; bad idea :-(

So, after I disconnect the (-) battery cable, what should I use to clean them out?

Thanks everyone!!

 

[Daryl]

Swung by the shop this morning. One of the wires dislodged, probably when I was finagling it into the tank. Now the car starts! So that’s fixed. And a rat chewed up part of the wiper line, so that’s fixed, too. Next up: power driver seat track then swap wires on the window switch so up is up and down is down. Then fuel filter and lastly door hinges.

 

[weendoggy]

I did use a pretty good gob of it, admittedly. FWIW, there was a bit of something, which I presumed was dielectric grease, in each connector when I disassembled. I figured that’s all that remained after 30 years so that’s why I loaded it up. Good intentions; bad idea :-(

So, after I disconnect the (-) battery cable, what should I use to clean them out?

Thanks everyone!!

Use some alcohol or just brake-cleaner and a rag. I wouldn't worry about getting it pristine, just take the "gobs" off.

 

[ttocs]

swap wires on the window switch so up is up and down is down.

wahuh?

 

[Daryl]

wahuh?

When the glass shop installed the passenger side regulator, the drivers switch was bass-akwards! I didn’t want to take issue with it because they did it for free when I had the windshield replaced. Finally bugged me enough to ask them to make good on it, which they said they would, no problem. But I asked the shop it’s now at getting all the other work done if they could? No problem! Cool… saves me a trip to the glass shop.