Replacing Harmonic Balancer. Do I need the balancer bolt kit?

Paul

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Your stock bolt and washer will work fine.


I use ARP balancer bolts, but that's because I'm a little obsessive about fasteners. Your choice really.
 

Dr Fildo

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I just replaced mine last week. That looks like the bolt that is already on the crank. On my '95 it was 15/16 and I used an air wrench to get it off. I re-used the old one. There was no problem with it. The car runs like a dream now. So if you don't damage the original one, save your money.

A couple words of advice if you've never done one. First, you can "borrow" the balancer removal tool from your local AutoZone or Advaned Auto. They require a small deposit (mine was $15) and you get it back when you return the tool. And you can keep the tool as long as you need it. I don't know how you would pull the old one off without the tool. Second, and much more importantly, after you remove that 15/16 bolt from the crank, make sure that you reach your finger in the hole and get the washer out BEFORE you install the tool or else the thing won't budge and you'll be doing a lot of cursing. That was my mistake and it took me a week to figure it out :hammer:. The new one goes on only one way, so you don't have to worry if you're installing it correctly. And instead of trying to force the new one to seat properly, just make sure it is on the right way (there's a notch in it) and use the bolt with the washer on it, tightening slowly and carefully until it is seated and torqued down. If you force the new balancer on or hit it with a hammer (even a soft faced one) you risk damaging it, and throwing off the balance.

Good Luck!
 

punksable

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mine went about a month ago when i was going thu the gears, boy the motor did shake, but i did no damage and towed it home.

it takes a little while to do it, i agree on renting the puller, that is what i did, i also replaced the water pump while i was in the area, i just turned 100,000 miles on mine so i figured for the price and while i was in the area it was a good time to do it.

but it does run a whole lot better now.
 

Dr Fildo

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For me, the car picked up a vibration, which was worse at certain RPM's, kinda like when you have a wheel that needs balancing. The engine performance was fine, no backfiring or stumbling, no loss in power or acceleration, no blowing smoke or leaking/burning fluids, no strange sounds, but the car had a hell of a shake. There were no engine lights or codes. I didn't do a diagnostic check, but I know that I had never replaced it, and my car has over 144,000 on it. I replaced the plugs and wires (which needed to be changed anyway) and the problem didn't change. A lot of other guys seemed to be having this problem with higher mileage cars, so I took a chance, dissassembled, and saw that the rubber had slid out, slightly, to the back. It was so small a change that I didn't even think that was the problem until I re-assembled it all with the new balancer and started it up. If I hadn't actually taken it apart, I never could have visually known.

The guys on the forum pointed me in that direction.
 

5.Woahhh

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My car shakes when I let off the break and just let the car go it vibrates till give it alittle gas. Then when I'm going over 110. The car shakes.
 

Dr Fildo

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Does it vibrate when idling/sitting still or only when the car is moving? If the balancer needs replacing, it will vibrate even when you're not moving. Try raising the RPM while in neutral/parked to see if it vibrates. If not, then leave the balancer alone. Maybe check your whees for balance, or worn suspension parts.

And don't go 110 (or more) unless you're on the track. :coolsmiley:
 

wayne94mustang

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they dont always vibrate, sometimes they just rotate enough for thwe timing marks to be off

other times (like mine) you can see the rubber pushing out and see it wiggle when its running


no need for a new bolt if your is ok
 

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