ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*
- Thread starter ReplicaR
- Start date
g36 monkey
Post Whore
yea, steering rack bushings are cake. I was honestly surprised and thought I did something wrong because I got it done so quick haha.
Cool... so it may not be different ratios, but it sounds like it has different valving, or at least different hydraulic power asssist in the rack. interesting. I may just underdrive my power steering pump...
You will really like that solid steering shaft, it makes a difference in road feel mostly, and the car feels more direct and the steering wheel feels more "tied in" to the front wheels. Surprised you didnt do that when you swapped the rack... lol, easy day there.
Just make sure you put a small bit of blue locktite on the steering shaft bolts, they like to wiggle loose. I found that out the hard way.. haha.
g36 monkey
Post Whore
Glad you're oK! haha
I'm probably going to end up getting the steering shaft just before the next track day which is in december, so that does not leave a lot of time. One thing that's more of an issue right now is the damn e-brake braket that gets in the way of the drive shaft, since the car is pretty low. Probably will have to cut off most of it, and attach the e-brake cables to the sides of the tunnel, because they rub too.
g36 monkey
Post Whore
I had the redo my ebrake because the previous owner put on some wimpy bolts to hold it on. The thing ripped right up one day. Just make sure its snugged down real good with some good bolts.
I'm a tie wrap champion when it comes to routing cables lol. Most hardware stores sell little things you can epoxy to the sides that have holes in them to put zip ties. Just an idea for routing the cable, if you didn't already have something in mind.
I'm a tie wrap champion when it comes to routing cables lol. Most hardware stores sell little things you can epoxy to the sides that have holes in them to put zip ties. Just an idea for routing the cable, if you didn't already have something in mind.
I was thinking about just using those aluminum cable hold down brackets or whatever the name is, and just drilling into the tunnel. Your way might be better though, I should roll by Lowes on the way back, and see what they say. I just want to make sure that it's secure.
g36 monkey
Post Whore
It's what we use to run wires in the yachts, if you get some good methacrylate, and you scuff the surface, after its cured you should be able to hang on it. I can do that after ours set up at work.
I was just trying to make it so you didn't have to drill holes
I was just trying to make it so you didn't have to drill holes
Well, ended up scrapping the zip tie idea. I took the car over to my friend's shop (Wild Pony Motorsports), and Derrin used plasma cutter and grinder to remove as much of the e-brake bracket as possible. Then he hammered out all the cable mounting locations to clear them away from the drive shaft. Finally I removed the short differential bump stop that MM supplied with their springs, and reinstalled a stock one. I figure the diff will bottom out either way, but I'd rather have the differential housing hit a rubber bump stop than a driveshaft hit an e-brake bracket or transmission tunnel. So far the issue has been resolved. Can't believe I was considering ditching the e-brake all together because of this.
Off to corner weight balance on tuesday.
Off to corner weight balance on tuesday.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
love the build.
and i want to put in my $0.02 on the bushing convo.
if you're building a car with performance as its main use, and a car that you want to last for longer than 10 years, i suggest gettin rid of as much *rubber* as possible.
i went with solid rack bushings, solid steering shaft, and solid motor mounts. although ride quality has been compensated, durability and performance hasnt.
i personally highly suggest solid rack bushings because ride quality isnt compensated in the least with these and performance and durability are second-to-none.
and i want to put in my $0.02 on the bushing convo.
if you're building a car with performance as its main use, and a car that you want to last for longer than 10 years, i suggest gettin rid of as much *rubber* as possible.
i went with solid rack bushings, solid steering shaft, and solid motor mounts. although ride quality has been compensated, durability and performance hasnt.
i personally highly suggest solid rack bushings because ride quality isnt compensated in the least with these and performance and durability are second-to-none.
MustangChris
Mythic Level
i was just commenting on the other posts. i know you have solid bushings... i pay attention. LOL.
a solid shaft has other perks as well, as you can cut, weld, fabricate, and modify it when needed.
i pay attention. LOL.a solid shaft has other perks as well, as you can cut, weld, fabricate, and modify it when needed.
i may end up doing a rack change and power steering pump altogether. the pump hasnt failed but i fubared the line to it(it leaks). i will change the rack because i have slight end play and i just changed the tie rods and rod ends. steering shaft is still in fantastic shape albeit being from 96... your insight is helping me decide. since im ditching my ABS too due to the aerospace brakes im looking at the 3 radiator as well.
Ya.... when the steering got real loose, i was like WTF!? then crawled under to look at the last stuff I installed (the entire front end).... found the steering shaft bolts loose, but not gone. close one! lol
Got the car corner-weight balanced today. All measurements are done with the driver inside. After it was done, the weights looked like this.
Left Front: 1024 lbs
Right Front: 981 lbs
Left Rear: 752 lbs
Right Rear: 709 lbs
Cross weight was a perfect 1733.
Total weight with me in it was 3466. Weight distribution front to rear is still pretty shitty, especially with me in it, but weight distribution left to right is actually pretty close. If I move the battery in the trunk on the right, I will get 50/50 left to right distribution.
Left Front: 1024 lbs
Right Front: 981 lbs
Left Rear: 752 lbs
Right Rear: 709 lbs
Cross weight was a perfect 1733.
Total weight with me in it was 3466. Weight distribution front to rear is still pretty shitty, especially with me in it, but weight distribution left to right is actually pretty close. If I move the battery in the trunk on the right, I will get 50/50 left to right distribution.
g36 monkey
Post Whore
That's pretty impressive, I would like to check that one day
The whole idea behind this is to have a similar cross weight for the car. Cross weight is combination of weights from opposing corners. So you have left front combined with right rear, and right front combined with left rear. When the cross weight is the same, the car will have same amount of grip, whether you are turning left or right.
