ReplicaR's Mustang build *finally on track again*

[wildride02gt]

if you don't mind me asking, what is your opinion of the Hawk ceramics vs. the hawk HPS. I'll assume that from your post you were not happy with them on the track, but I am torn between the two on my car, which is my DD and weekend autoX and track toy. I've been frying the best ceramics available at the parts stores, and am looking to upgrade on the next change out.

 

[ReplicaR]

I really don't like ceramics. Not for street driving, not for track driving, not for anything really. They have a really narrow gap of working temps from what I've heard, very low friction, and it feels very much like it's the case. They don't really like working cold, they don't really like being hot. I couldn't even bed mine into the rotor for several weeks. HPS is a good street pad that can take some aggressive driving, but it's not a track pad by any means. I've got a separate set of rotors and pads for track, using PFC-01 for that. I keep the two worlds separate.

 

[FrankenStang]

ive raced my car around a mintrack a few times and i really liked the ceramnics performance combined with slotted rotors..they had a loud groan on even semihard braking but never got close to overheating or glazing.But for DD, I HATE THEM..the groan is anoying and the dust is ugly too.And i dont have abs so im getting no bennefits from them on DD..

 

[MadStang]

I really don't like ceramics. Not for street driving, not for track driving, not for anything really. They have a really narrow gap of working temps from what I've heard, very low friction, and it feels very much like it's the case. They don't really like working cold, they don't really like being hot. I couldn't even bed mine into the rotor for several weeks. HPS is a good street pad that can take some aggressive driving, but it's not a track pad by any means. I've got a separate set of rotors and pads for track, using PFC-01 for that. I keep the two worlds separate.

Dmitry you really oughta try the Raybestos R-300 rotors in combination with some Porterfield pads. they are legitimately the best setup I've ever run. Initial bite is moderate but as soon as you heat em up they'll stop on a dime which I absolutely love

 

[ReplicaR]

I've ran Porterfield R4 before. I like PFC-01 better. Even Porterfield say that PFC-01 is a better track pad, but it is more expensive.

 

[RichV]

I've not tried the porterfields, but love Carbotech pads. I have run the XP10 and XP8 and both are a great track pad. Stops when hot/cold and seems to take whatever you throw at them. A bit pricey tho, and do not last on the track with stockish calipers.

 

[ReplicaR]

So, finally starting an engine build. I was originally thinking of going with LS1 swap, but the deal fell through, so I'm going to build the SBF instead. I'll post more details as parts will start coming in.

 

[white95]

Cool man, I assume youre going to stick with a 302 for weight concerns. I wish you luck Dmitry.

 

[ReplicaR]

Yeah, it will be a 302 based engine. But I will not necessarily keep it at 302 cubic inches

 

[white95]

Yes, of course. A good set of aluminum heads and a lighter rotating assembly will help get your fighting weight down.

 

[g36 monkey]

that's gonna be awesome. the advantage of having an awesome suspension is really you really don't need tons of power to out perform the other competition.

 

[ba#97]

i'm so glad you just updated all this for us...i was thinking of doing the same for my car! what offset did you go with on the rpf1's? as you know i'm running mm coilovers as well and am making some huge progress on my track day car as well. need to get some pics up soon.

 

[ReplicaR]

17x10 comes in only one offset, which is 18mm. Yeah, it requires some fender work, but the benefit should easily outweight the cost

 

[ba#97]

and youre still planning on running 275's on them? what class do you run autox in?

 

[ReplicaR]

Yes, 275 NT-01. I'm not in any autoX class, I just do it for fun. I'll probably end up in TTA in NASA though.

 

[ba#97]

oh ok....other question...how much negative camber are you running?

 

[ReplicaR]

My setting may not work for your setup, because the cars are different. I've got complete MM front end, as far as I remember you are just at the coilovers. If I were you, I'd go out there, try different things, record what you find, and measure after every run. For me the most front traction on autoX course was at my front plates maxed out on negative camber. I don't know exactly where it was, but before the change I was at -2.5, so my guess is that it was at -3.5

 

[ba#97]

gotcha...thanks man. I'm aspiring to be like you...lmao. my car is well on it's way. hoping to get out to the track soon....broke as hell though....was going to buy a bmw spec e30 but then the cobra broke so i'm waiting for my money back from the guy but he has to sell it first.

 

[ReplicaR]

Well, some of the parts came in already. Here is the lot of parts that came in so far

For bottom end I went with Eagle 331 internally balanced rotating assembly. I really wanted to do an internally balanced engine, so it could be more rev happy. I'm probably not going to rev it too far, since this is a street engine using hydraulic roller cam. Probably going for a 6500 rpm redline. Everything is forged, including the Mahle pistons and H-beam rods.

Top end parts so far are Comp 1.6 roller rockers and hardened pushrods

And since factory engine is a 50oz externally balanced, I can't reuse stock flywheel or balancer. So I ordered one of ACT ProLite flywheel. What's cool about this piece is that most of the material has been removed from outside of the flywheel, in effort to keep the rotating mass down. And it's also one piece, which means that it will be as reliable as stock flywheel.

Other stuff that's not in pictures are just gaskets, and Ford Racing high volume oil pump. Stay tuned for more.

 

[twovalveterror]

have you decided on a cylinder head yet?