Retro Fitting Stock CD Player to 1994 V6

[ttocs]

that is the standard cassette deck. You can plug that into one of the harnesses that bypasses the amp, but it has no way to control a cd.

 

[tmwsccsh]

Thats what I've done to get it working - just plugged in and worked.

So I think if I am going to do this it's going to be a replace tape deck and get cd player and possibly wiring harness to support.

Is it possible there's more spare plugs I havent found yet in the car, or is that it?

Does anyone know the part numbers for the cd player and tape radio I would be looking for to work with the standard amp I have?

Thanks in advance.

Hopefully not many more questions!

Regards

TMW

 

[ttocs]

The only other harness you need is the one that goes from the deck to the cd player. With the correct cd and tape deck then it all plugs in.

I doubt anyone has the part #'s. If you can get a look at the back of the deck and match the harnesses up is the best way. There should be one long rectangular harness for the power, and then two of the smaller square ones one for the amps input and the other to the cd player.

 

[tmwsccsh]

Thanks for all your replies these past few days.

Some good info and things for me to now think about to decide if I proceed or not - as I first said, a task that seems so simple is clearly much more complex than I thought (or hoped!).

Will let you all know what I do.

Thanks again.

Regards

TMW

 

[tmwsccsh]

Sorry, I'm back...

I have found the below which I can get shipped over to the UK.




It's from a mach 460 set up, but the seller will also include the wiring harness for me as well...





So clearly that would give me a compatible radio and cd as well as all connections I need.

I have a friend that is good at all this sort of thing - would the above give us all I need to be able to splice out the connectors and get this working in some way with the set up I already have if I remove the existing radio from my car?

Thanks in advance.

Regards

TMW

 

[ttocs]

the only part of the harness that you would need is from the deck to the cd player. It could be separated, yes that should give you everything you need.

 

[tmwsccsh]

Perfect - thanks for confirming.

And it's not an issue that it's from a mach 460 and I don't have the 460 amp?

Now to negotiate on pricing... ;-)

Regards

TMW

 

[ttocs]

I am not positive, but pretty sure, that the system you have will not have a problem. The difference in it was after that first amp/cross over in the dash and how it was split up but the inputs should be the same. But worst case you would have to pull the dash out(how the heater core) but you could put that harness in, and then get the rest of the mach if your dreaming of an upgrade.

 

[tmwsccsh]

Marvellous

Thank you for all the help.

Regards

TMW

 

[tmwsccsh]

Hi,

Just to advise, all purchased.

Hopefully it should arrive here in the next couple of weeks.

Will advise how it all goes!

Regards

TMW

 

[Musttanguy]

Hi all,

First main posting on here and it's a project - one I think sounds simple but fear it's not going to be! Apologies if this goes on a bit too...

As per the subject, I have a 1994 V6 and want to fit the stock CD player into it. When I got the car it had a Sony aftermarket tape player with 10-slot CD changer in the boot. I wanted originality so got rid of that (the changer took up too much space anyway) and found an original cassette player that I fitted to the connectors the Sony was on, as in these 2 (the sony used ISO converters, the Ford replacement was straight on to these).

View attachment 1441

So this gave me...

View attachment 1442

... which is what I wanted. But now I want to put the CD player in too where the current small cubby hole is.

I don't think I have the Mach 460 system (or should I say has had) as there's no tweeter speakers on the inside where the wing mirrors mount to the doors. But I do have some extra connectors in the radio bay which could be interesting.

Firstly, the one on the left.

View attachment 1443

These appear to go into the same loom but I have no idea what they are for. Then, the image on the right above is 2x more connectors that are to the right-hand side which look like the reverse of what I have connected the tape radio to. Close-up of these below...

View attachment 1444

The CD player I want is the standard one...

View attachment 1445

... but I read somewhere that there are 2x versions of this - one for the Mach 460 system and one for cars without the Mach 460. The only ones I seem to be able to find however have these connections on them...

View attachment 1446

... which don't match the connectors I have in the car.

Oh, and for interest, the tape player I have is...

View attachment 1447

Hopefully there's someone out there that can make sense of all this and advise on what I have / need to make this work. I have not purchased anything yet but am hoping there's a model of cd player and loom out there I can get and maybe splice in some way into what I have and I can get it all going.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards

TMW

There are 3 sub harnesses that Ford used, one for radio only, one for radio and cd(non Mach)and one for Mach systems. This is a direct plug and play with correct sub harness. You will need the radio/cd non mach harness. I should have one available.

 

[Flade]

There were three radio options on the SN95. The basic radio, the Premium Radio and the Mach 460. The premium radio added the CD option and used a single amp behind the console. It used a sub harness to connect the CD player to the main radio. The Mach radio and CD were the same as the premium, but added two new amps. One rear amps provided power to the rear top speakers and wing theaters. The other amp powered the front and rear bottom speakers. The original front amp just fed high level signals to the rear amps. This is different from aftermarket amps which take a low level signal from the radio and amplify it. The Mach also used large speakers with bigger magnets (marked with a Z) and added the front wing mounted theaters. The Mach has its own wiring sub harness that connects the radio, CD player and all the wiring for the wing speakers is already in the doors so adding a Mach just requires the amps, speakers and sub harness. If needed I believe I have Mach and a premium sub harnesses stashed away. The really liked the original radio an CD player, but had at least two CD players fail so gave up and switched to aftermarket radio head and installed an original pocket in place of the CD player. As for the wiring connections, the long great and black connectors, are power and control wiring. The square connectors are the speaker connections.

 

[tmwsccsh]

Hi all,

So some good news - and some bad.

Good news - plugged the radio that's arrived in to the existing wiring in the car and it came to life! I have also been able to deconstruct the wiring loom I received and extract all the bits for that too. This is going well - I only need to splice 4x wires in to what I have and all should work.

But there's a problem. It appears that I do indeed need a working amp of some kind as there is no drive from the new radio. If I crank the volume to full I can just hear it, so the factory amp (non-mach) appears to be iffy (it's the one behind the head unit at the bottom, just visible in one of the original photos I put up).

You can see what looks like water damage to it. I would like to get it out and a friend of mine who is an electrical tech is going to give it a going over but I can't obviously see how it comes out.

I assume I need to get the centre console out (where the centre vents etc. are and what the radio sits in) which is easy enough, but how is the amp held in and does it then come out?

Thanks in advance.

Regards

TMW

 

[Flade]

The amp is mounted on a bracket if memory serves right. The bracket screws into the car on either side behind the console. I believe you can take out the screws and remove the amp and bracket from the side. Its a bit tight, but not too tough. I believe I have a spare Amp I was planning on selling if you need one. Where are you located?

 

[tmwsccsh]

Thanks for the pointers - I'm off work tomorrow so will have time to check it out.

I'm in the UK so not an easy send. Will see what the current one brings and go from there...

Regards

TMW

 

[Flade]

I thought you said UK, What part, I have a buddy heading over in a few weeks who could bring it.

 

[tmwsccsh]

I'm in Hertfordshire, just north of London.

I have got the current one out this afternoon - wasn't as bad as I thought. There's actually 3x screws that hold it in - 2x at the front at each corner and 1x at the back in the middle - they came out easily (once the centre console was out) with a 7mm socket. Typically, I dropped one, but the long-nose pliers easily retrieved it!

Opened it up and nothing obviously wrong (ie no burned out components I can see or black spots on the circuit board)...





... so have downed it in wd40 and will put it back in when I get some time, probably Saturday now.

If still nothing, over to my electronics friend to see what he can spot...

Regards

TMW

 

[ttocs]

I thought I read all the uses for wd40 but I didn't think circuit repair was one of them....... They also never mentioned this technique in electronics tech school. Did you at least start with technical taps before the wd40? That was my first lesson in tech school and I have been amazed how often it has helped me over the years.

 

[tmwsccsh]

Done it many times. Had several electronic devices in the past that didn't work but did after a WD drowning. It's amazing stuff.

My old Jaguar XJS had non-working electric windows. Drowned the switch and circuit in the stuff and they were as good as new.

And, as a child, my BigTrak (remember them?) ceased to function - again, a wd drowning and it worked perfectly after that.

Regards

TMW

 

[evilcw311]

Uuuhhhh.......wd40tf?!?!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk