Same issues - different day...

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scarface

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TheBab said:
scarface said:
TheBab said:
scarface said:
TheBab said:
scarface said:
which way do you have the stock Bosch BPV hooked up? do you know which model it is?

I had a very similar problem with boost using the one that came with the kit. I was blowing it open under boost. under the advise of my tuner, I switched to the bosch 114 BPV and reversed the way it was hooked up. ( so the boost kept the valve closed)

Also I had similar problem with the stumble around 4500. We went through a ton of things, and finally realized it was the coil packs. Mine too were accel. I switched to MSD and it pulled to 6500 with no issues.

I still have the regular by pass valve. I was gonna buy a upgraded Forge one....

Is there any way to test the by pass valve? Im not too sure thats the problem..

I do have ACCEL wires.... how much are those to replace?
for the BPV, the stock one looses boost around 6-7 psi. to help make sure the end of the BPV that sees the boost is setup to hold the valve closed. Basically the boost will hold the valve shut, until the vacuum opens it. I would upgrade it asap. the bosch 114 is like 40 buxs.

I replaced my wires with Taylor wires and MSD coil packs...its not cheap, you would have to shop around.

I know you gave me a link to the by pass on ebay before.. .but the only ones I can find now are like $75...


Also another question : Would a faulty TPS sensor cause any of my problems... I KNOW mines jacked up... the idle hangs at 2k and slowly falls when I come to a stop. I put it on my buddies car that never did that... and his did the same thing...
I got a new one coming though...
just curious, but have you had it tuned lately? the BPV can be bought at any VW dealer. Its a stock valve for the late model 2.0 turbo.


No not lately... I need to order the XCAL.... Hopefully early next month.
you may have an issue of too much fuel...that could cause the studdering also.
 
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TheBab

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scarface said:
TheBab said:
scarface said:
TheBab said:
scarface said:
TheBab said:
scarface said:
which way do you have the stock Bosch BPV hooked up? do you know which model it is?

I had a very similar problem with boost using the one that came with the kit. I was blowing it open under boost. under the advise of my tuner, I switched to the bosch 114 BPV and reversed the way it was hooked up. ( so the boost kept the valve closed)

Also I had similar problem with the stumble around 4500. We went through a ton of things, and finally realized it was the coil packs. Mine too were accel. I switched to MSD and it pulled to 6500 with no issues.

I still have the regular by pass valve. I was gonna buy a upgraded Forge one....

Is there any way to test the by pass valve? Im not too sure thats the problem..

I do have ACCEL wires.... how much are those to replace?
for the BPV, the stock one looses boost around 6-7 psi. to help make sure the end of the BPV that sees the boost is setup to hold the valve closed. Basically the boost will hold the valve shut, until the vacuum opens it. I would upgrade it asap. the bosch 114 is like 40 buxs.

I replaced my wires with Taylor wires and MSD coil packs...its not cheap, you would have to shop around.

I know you gave me a link to the by pass on ebay before.. .but the only ones I can find now are like $75...


Also another question : Would a faulty TPS sensor cause any of my problems... I KNOW mines jacked up... the idle hangs at 2k and slowly falls when I come to a stop. I put it on my buddies car that never did that... and his did the same thing...
I got a new one coming though...
just curious, but have you had it tuned lately? the BPV can be bought at any VW dealer. Its a stock valve for the late model 2.0 turbo.


No not lately... I need to order the XCAL.... Hopefully early next month.
you may have an issue of too much fuel...that could cause the studdering also.

which is what i was thinking as well...

since my eyes fawkin water after a few wot pulls :<
 

ripper

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OK heres my ,02 for what its worth. (no psi and all that fuel suks. You need to get that psi up to 10 or 12). Your floodin out your cylinders with fuel and dont need it. See if you can either get a smaller pulley or borrow one from a buddy. You can run stock injectors on 6psi. Do you have a bov or a bpv? I have a vortech bpv. An enclosed system is easier to tune, you just dont get alot of swishing noise when you let off the gas. The psi makes the cylinders hotter and thats why you need more fuel. Your not making enough psi for the amount of fuel. Im no mechanic but this is what it sounds like to me. Man you have had this problem too long im gonna call my tuner and get some info for you. Ill pm you with what he says.
 

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are you using a Blow thru maf setup? if so you may be pegging the MAF. i know when i first fired my car up w/ the tune i had no maf x-tender and when trying to rev it would act like it was hitting the rev limiter at 2500 rpm. reason being i was pegging the MAF b/c the tune was adjusted to have a X-tender. if you peg the maf, my tuner says it sounds like your hitting the rev limiter and or the car just quits pulling and dumps alot of fuel in b/c it goes back to the open loop fuel/timing maps.
 

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Thomas_W said:
are you using a Blow thru maf setup? if so you may be pegging the MAF. i know when i first fired my car up w/ the tune i had no maf x-tender and when trying to rev it would act like it was hitting the rev limiter at 2500 rpm. reason being i was pegging the MAF b/c the tune was adjusted to have a X-tender. if you peg the maf, my tuner says it sounds like your hitting the rev limiter and or the car just quits pulling and dumps alot of fuel in b/c it goes back to the open loop fuel/timing maps.

My tuner says the same thing Babs.
 
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scarface

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wait...whats your HP? I was near maxing out my LMAF at 400 RWHP.... I never thought of that.
 
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Stevo said:
OK heres my ,02 for what its worth. (no psi and all that fuel suks. You need to get that psi up to 10 or 12). Your floodin out your cylinders with fuel and dont need it. See if you can either get a smaller pulley or borrow one from a buddy. You can run stock injectors on 6psi. Do you have a bov or a bpv? I have a vortech bpv. An enclosed system is easier to tune, you just dont get alot of swishing noise when you let off the gas. The psi makes the cylinders hotter and thats why you need more fuel. Your not making enough psi for the amount of fuel. Im no mechanic but this is what it sounds like to me. Man you have had this problem too long im gonna call my tuner and get some info for you. Ill pm you with what he says.

Thanks man, I was thinking the same thing as you.. car was tuned for 10 psi.. I put the FMIC on and supposedly gonna run 8 psi.. but now it hits 5-6 or so. I think its dumping fuel for 10 psi but only boosting half that and drowning itself. As it has a mean backfire sometimes on the decel... and eyes water at wot pulls. (rich)

scarface said:
wait...whats your HP? I was near maxing out my LMAF at 400 RWHP.... I never thought of that.

Dyno chart before I owned it shows 450hp pre-intercooler...... for some reason on the dyno right at 5800 rpms it makes NO power and falls on its face. The previous owner said he just shifted at 5800 and ran 12.2s with it like that.... I always thought they shut it down at that point due to maxing out the MAF... I don't know.. this is a whole new world to me :(

Thomas_W said:
are you using a Blow thru maf setup? if so you may be pegging the MAF. i know when i first fired my car up w/ the tune i had no maf x-tender and when trying to rev it would act like it was hitting the rev limiter at 2500 rpm. reason being i was pegging the MAF b/c the tune was adjusted to have a X-tender. if you peg the maf, my tuner says it sounds like your hitting the rev limiter and or the car just quits pulling and dumps alot of fuel in b/c it goes back to the open loop fuel/timing maps.


It doesn't feel as if its hitting the rev limiter... just stutters a little.


I'm replacing the plugs.... replacing the ACCEL coil packs with OEM ones.... and replacing the by pass valve probably this month.
Next month I'll hopefully be able to order my XCAL2....


EDIT: There is a guy selling a ba2400 for relatively cheap but I can't find any info about it really... what kinda power levels would this peg out at? Would it be better than my Lighting maf?


Thanks for the help guys.
 

Thomas_W

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TheBab said:
Stevo said:
OK heres my ,02 for what its worth. (no psi and all that fuel suks. You need to get that psi up to 10 or 12). Your floodin out your cylinders with fuel and dont need it. See if you can either get a smaller pulley or borrow one from a buddy. You can run stock injectors on 6psi. Do you have a bov or a bpv? I have a vortech bpv. An enclosed system is easier to tune, you just dont get alot of swishing noise when you let off the gas. The psi makes the cylinders hotter and thats why you need more fuel. Your not making enough psi for the amount of fuel. Im no mechanic but this is what it sounds like to me. Man you have had this problem too long im gonna call my tuner and get some info for you. Ill pm you with what he says.

Thanks man, I was thinking the same thing as you.. car was tuned for 10 psi.. I put the FMIC on and supposedly gonna run 8 psi.. but now it hits 5-6 or so. I think its dumping fuel for 10 psi but only boosting half that and drowning itself. As it has a mean backfire sometimes on the decel... and eyes water at wot pulls. (rich)

scarface said:
wait...whats your HP? I was near maxing out my LMAF at 400 RWHP.... I never thought of that.

Dyno chart before I owned it shows 450hp pre-intercooler...... for some reason on the dyno right at 5800 rpms it makes NO power and falls on its face. The previous owner said he just shifted at 5800 and ran 12.2s with it like that.... I always thought they shut it down at that point due to maxing out the MAF... I don't know.. this is a whole new world to me :(

Thomas_W said:
are you using a Blow thru maf setup? if so you may be pegging the MAF. i know when i first fired my car up w/ the tune i had no maf x-tender and when trying to rev it would act like it was hitting the rev limiter at 2500 rpm. reason being i was pegging the MAF b/c the tune was adjusted to have a X-tender. if you peg the maf, my tuner says it sounds like your hitting the rev limiter and or the car just quits pulling and dumps alot of fuel in b/c it goes back to the open loop fuel/timing maps.


It doesn't feel as if its hitting the rev limiter... just stutters a little.


I'm replacing the plugs.... replacing the ACCEL coil packs with OEM ones.... and replacing the by pass valve probably this month.
Next month I'll hopefully be able to order my XCAL2....


EDIT: There is a guy selling a ba2400 for relatively cheap but I can't find any info about it really... what kinda power levels would this peg out at? Would it be better than my Lighting maf?


Thanks for the help guys.



Buy a Maf X-tender from Modular Power house. $110 shipped. and MUCH cheaper and will give you MUCh more HP useage than the BA2400 will.
 
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TheBab

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Please note that use of the MAFXtenderâ„¢ requires extensive retuning of your vehicle!!!!!


For another 5-6 months I'll have mail order tunes. :<

The extensive part worries me....

I can always datalog the tunes and send them back for corrections though.


So don't buy the BA2400? He only wants $125 shipped.
 
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scarface

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TheBab said:
scarface said:
TheBab said:
I don't know.. this is a whole new world to me :(


you need a map clamp...contact aaronneon... :) j/k


THAT , I understand. lol
me too :) I bet we are the only two on here that does though...lol Im soooo much better modding the srt than mustangs, so far atleast.
 
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Yea its a whole new world.


I have this nicely modded car and Im such a damn newb. Its kind of embarrassing sometimes....
 
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scarface

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TheBab said:
Yea its a whole new world.


I have this nicely modded car and Im such a damn newb. Its kind of embarrassing sometimes....
I completely understand
 
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Got around to replacing the ACCEL coil packs with OEM..

Car runs BETTER than it ever has.

It always stuttered at 5800 + when I first got it.
I assumed I was pegging the maf...

Then a month ago it started doing it at 4000... really bad.


It drives GREAT... Im so happy.
 
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scarface

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TheBab said:
Got around to replacing the ACCEL coil packs with OEM..

Car runs BETTER than it ever has.

It always stuttered at 5800 + when I first got it.
I assumed I was pegging the maf...

Then a month ago it started doing it at 4000... really bad.


It drives GREAT... Im so happy.
figured that much.... They crapped out on me too, and made me think I had a ghost.
 
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TheBab

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I'm spinning 1st, 2nd, 3rd with newer BFG Geforce Sports ... 275 wide. :hammer:



:thumb: :thumb:

Ordering my XCAL at the end of the month and HOPEFULLY hitting the track up with my et streets the first of July...

I want to hit in the 11s.. I'd be happy with only running 8-9 psi.
 
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scarface

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TheBab said:
I'm spinning 1st, 2nd, 3rd with newer BFG Geforce Sports ... 275 wide. :hammer:



:thumb: :thumb:

Ordering my XCAL at the end of the month and HOPEFULLY hitting the track up with my et streets the first of July...

I want to hit in the 11s.. I'd be happy with only running 8-9 psi.
so the main problem you were having is gone right ?
 

ripper

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Holly crap thats good news BAB. Way to go man. :thumb:
 
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TheBab

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scarface said:
TheBab said:
I'm spinning 1st, 2nd, 3rd with newer BFG Geforce Sports ... 275 wide. :hammer:



:thumb: :thumb:

Ordering my XCAL at the end of the month and HOPEFULLY hitting the track up with my et streets the first of July...

I want to hit in the 11s.. I'd be happy with only running 8-9 psi.
so the main problem you were having is gone right ?


I have zero problems... the car runs better than when I first bought it.

Actually, I do have a question.. my oil gauge on the cluster... It can be sitting at normal and if I floor it.. it'll drop... not all the way but drop or bounce around while normal driving... is this due to an old arse gauge? Should I buy a good autometer oil pressure? gauge....

I check my oil just about everyday .. lol.

(I need to replace the oil pan gasket so it has a SMALL SMALL leak) but I like to check the oil all the time.

It's pretty much at the Max line on my dip stick.. but yet I can floor it and the needle goes ALMOST to the Low reading.
 

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