Shift linkage for a 96 3.8L Automatic

[Swimmerstang]

Hey guys, I am new to the community, and I don't know too much about mustangs other than I love them as a car enthusiast. Now I have a 96 3.8L with the 4R70W, And the shift linkage has a ton of friction on it to the point that it is very hard to shift, and impossible to find the right position the first try if your not accustomed to the amount of force it takes. So I was curious to ask someone more knowledgeable than me if the 99-04 shift linkage would work, mainly because I can't really find a new one, and if I could try and get the current one to work better, or even retrofit the 99-04 onto mine. Attached are pics of the current cable. My theory is that the metal sheath is swollen and is squeezing the inner cable.
Thanks!

 

[Flade]

I might have the whole assembly in a box somewhere. I swapped my son’s car from AODE to T-5. Also make sure it is the linkage and not the shifter or trans itself. Also I seem to remember that there is a steering interlock cable that could be sticking

 

[Swimmerstang]

Thank you. I disconnected the linkage from the transmission, and the transmission shifted with no issue. I could move it with my fingers with little effort. I have yet to try and dismount the linkage from the shifter, but now I've looked up the video on how to do so, so I will try when I get the chance. I am also curious about your T-5 conversion because I would like to do both V8 and manual swap mine at some point down the road, how hard was it for you to do the swap, and did it go smoothly?

 

[Swimmerstang]

I might have the whole assembly in a box somewhere. I swapped my son’s car from AODE to T-5. Also make sure it is the linkage and not the shifter or trans itself. Also I seem to remember that there is a steering interlock cable that could be sticking

Any update on whether or not you found the shift linkage?

 

[96blak54]

Its possible youll have great success removing the cable and working in some rust penetrate to save the original cable. Some of them rust penetrates contain oils to prevent re-rusting. Seek a lubricant rust penetrate like a brand call Kroil. Kroil is super expensive compared to other brands but its the real deal when used on weather exposed hardware.

 

[Swimmerstang]

Its possible youll have great success removing the cable and working in some rust penetrate to save the original cable. Some of them rust penetrates contain oils to prevent re-rusting. Seek a lubricant rust penetrate like a brand call Kroil. Kroil is super expensive compared to other brands but its the real deal when used on weather exposed hardware.

Thank you, do you have any recommendations for re-coating the exterior of the cable to prevent water from getting in later on?

 

[Michael Soldan]

The inside of those shift cables was coated with teflon , after 30 years it is all worn away. Oil penetrate is only a temporary fix, the cable will siexe up eventually. Replacement is the only fix. My SN95 is at a shop right now getting a new cable(99-204 cable with some modification on the brackets) The 95 cable is N/A. My car sat in my garage for two years and I couldn't move the shifter , it went out on a flatbed. Two years ago I took it in for a new cable and the dealership lubed it up and got it moving but it sure didn't last , like I said there is only one fix.