Sniper EFI wiring

weendoggy

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I'll give you a quarters worth. :cool:

To start, glad you got the cables on the way as they will most definitely be very helpful. Not so much the "Y" but when you have the LCD plugged in and not using the "Y", you'll always unplug it to plug in the PC cable. Plus, you can view both at the same time. Win win!

I too would ditch the CCRM part controlling the fan circuit. Controlling the fan with Sniper would be with the LT-BL wire on the 10 pin connector, which is ground activated. I like to use grounds to activate my relays. On a 4-pin relay that would be 85. 86 will be a 12v key/on or battery constant, 87 is the feed to the fan itself and 30 is a good 12v battery source. Once the Sniper hits your target temperature it will close the circuit to "85" and ground it activating the relay/fan. This would be totally separate from the CCRM. I have a '93 wiring diagram so I'll look for the fan circuit.

I never implied you had a tune installed so forgive me if I came across that way. Not intended. I know how frustrating this can be and believe me, my friends have me wire their cars because they get confused.

Once you get the cables you can program via the laptop if you want prior to the LCD arriving. If the ECU (on the TB) is not damaged, it'll read just fine. Also, you MUST use either a CD box or the coil driver to run that Hyperspark (or Dual Sync: my favorite) distributor. If you had a RTR distributor you could wire it direct (no coil driver needed), but will not control timing table.

The biggest thing is to make sure of all your wiring/setup for the Sniper. Double and triple check if needed. The best thing is get the latest wiring diagram from Holley's site if you don't have one for the Sniper.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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The fan is a two speed, one ground, two red/org and two org/lt blu. Ground comes from the main harness the other 4 go into the ccrm.

Yes, car currently has A/C and I was planning on keeping it, so I need to address that at some point. I really have nothing better to do until the touch screen shows up, so I might as well finish the rest of the wiring.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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OK, I'll follow the instructions for the coil driver and get that installed. Just so I get it right do I want to connect all three pink wires to the 12v hot in run and start?
1 pink wire from the main harness of the Sniper
1 pink wire from the HyperSpark distributor harness
1 pink wire from the coil driver
 

ttocs

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another small thing that a LOT of people do not understand is that there are two types of ignition wires and you will need to know the difference. A TRUE ignition of course has power with the key in the run position, but it will also have power while it is cranking the starter. This is for essential parts that need power while it is cranking(fuel pump, ignition, ecu, ect). A regular ignition is like what you find behind your radio where it has power in the run position but it cuts off when the starter is running to keep power for the essential items. You will need both of these wires and need to know the difference.
 

weendoggy

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OK, I'll follow the instructions for the coil driver and get that installed. Just so I get it right do I want to connect all three pink wires to the 12v hot in run and start?
1 pink wire from the main harness of the Sniper
1 pink wire from the HyperSpark distributor harness
1 pink wire from the coil driver
Yes. They can all be wired on the Key/On side of the switch and as stated by ttocs, BOTH start/ign need to have 12v. That should give 12v when in start/run position. Also want to make sure this is a 5.0 302 SBF.

White wire will go to the coil driver.

I don't have wiring for fan on a '95 but looked at my '02 and if the same, you'll need to leave the coolant sender to the PCM so it can determine engine temp. Without being sure of your diagram, that's how mine needs to work. It'll should also control the AC portion. You will need to install the Holley CTS as well.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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There were also a couple other questions I failed to answer, hopefully I didn't miss any:
The dash is as expected, once it cycles through its checks for ABS, Air Bag etc. it looks like this
IMG_0128.JPEG

The rest of the installation:
10 pin and touch screen, disconnected
InkedIMG_0129_LI.jpg

Main Harness, all wired up, except yellow wire
InkedIMG_0130_LI.jpg

Pink wire to 12v, hot in start and run Fuse #15 10a. Wire was cut to perform test of touch screen, will reconnect once cable and/or new touch screen arrives
InkedIMG_0131_LI.jpg

Distributor connections, unplugged. Again part of the test.
InkedIMG_0132_LI.jpg
InkedIMG_0133_LI.jpg

Additional info on pink wires
InkedIMG_0135_LI.jpg
 

ttocs

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I am a little confused as to why he suggests keeping the stock coolant temp sensor myself. Another suggestion is to replace the ford IAC with the GM/chrysler version and the adaptor they make for it. I could not get mine to work with the stock iac(something about the freq of the pwm crap I think) and from what I hear they just work better with the gm crap. Finally if your replacing the dash two of us have had issues with the gas gauge and the digital dash read out. I tried a number of different ways to get it to work and could not and white and myself both ended up going to an offboard gas gauge which is also fun because there are only a few that will work with our strange sender impedances as well.
 

weendoggy

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I am a little confused as to why he suggests keeping the stock coolant temp sensor myself.
The only reason is if he wants to keep the CCRM fan control in tack. It is run by the PCM and CTS. If you ditch the CCRM fan control part, then yes, he'll need to install another type of relay assembly to control the fans via the Sniper. The Holley CTS is for the Holley, not the Ford so it will need to be in regardless so it can monitor it's aspect of the system.

Another thing to be aware of is the Sniper is more sensitive to RFI signals so keeping as much of the wiring away from HEI type wires is important. I see the 4 pin LCD connector is outside the dash area so I would connect the "Y" lead there and make sure you wrap it with some foil-type tape to detract from HEI interference. The LCD and PC leads should easily find a way into the cockpit area.
 
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Chris Stephens

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The fan is a two speed, one ground, two red/org and two org/lt blu. Ground comes from the main harness the other 4 go into the ccrm.

Yes, car currently has A/C and I was planning on keeping it, so I need to address that at some point. I really have nothing better to do until the touch screen shows up, so I might as well finish the rest of the wiring.

I am with the others on this, use relays and ditch the CCRM. Make sure they're high-quality, robust relays.

Make sure you're not trying to use two speeds. The Sniper is designed to work with two fans, not two speeds. That can create issues. Simply use the high speed and you will be fine.

Also, remember that the Sniper provides a GROUND. It does NOT output +12VDC. You need +12VDC coming from elsewhere (I just jumper a small wire from Pin 30 to Pin 86 since I already have +12VDC going into 30).



The only reason is if he wants to keep the CCRM fan control in tack. It is run by the PCM and CTS. If you ditch the CCRM fan control part, then yes, he'll need to install another type of relay assembly to control the fans via the Sniper. The Holley CTS is for the Holley, not the Ford so it will need to be in regardless so it can monitor it's aspect of the system.

Another thing to be aware of is the Sniper is more sensitive to RFI signals so keeping as much of the wiring away from HEI type wires is important. I see the 4 pin LCD connector is outside the dash area so I would connect the "Y" lead there and make sure you wrap it with some foil-type tape to detract from HEI interference. The LCD and PC leads should easily find a way into the cockpit area.

Yes, like said here, route your wires as far away from high voltage plug wires, etc. Make sure you're using resister-type plugs. I bought ferrite beads cheap on Amazon and threw them on everywhere.

Here's my build thread for my car, I have a Sniper EFI and have had it for a couple years now.

BEFORE you run this car, remove the two side covers and zip tie your injector plugs down to the injector (link to my build thread post with photo). These are a known issue and something I discovered on the dyno with my new 427w. Thankfully, we noticed there was something funky going on before we hurt anything.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Any suggestions on the relays, part number, manufacturer, what ever else might be helpful.

I am fine with tossing the corm, the sooner the better. I found a pin out diagram for the corm, so I’ll study that and figure out what I need, can use and can scrap.
 

ttocs

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the standard bosch relays are usually available at any autoparts store for $15-20 each but you can get them online for cheaper. Be sure the dealer is authorized for them if you buy online
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Thank you again for the feedback. I like the look of those relays, they look like they came with the kit and as you mentioned weather tight. Since the easiest place is under the hood, that's most likely where they will go.

I'm just full of annoying questions. :rolleyes:
How many relays? I'm thinking three, one for the fan obviously, one for the A/C relay, maybe? and the last one for the A/C shutdown relay, for when at WOT if I remember.

A bit off topic, what did you guys do with your cruise control? Did you just remove the cable or did you figure out a way to hook it up? Not super important because I think I might want to swap out the steering wheel anyway, but more curious than anything right now.
 

ttocs

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pretty sure the cruise is an independent system that does not need the stock ecu but I could be wrong. I have not tried to use mine in years.
 

Chris Stephens

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Sorry, can't help much with cruise control. I don't use it. I'm either on the brakes or on the gas, anything in between is running the clock up :p

I use these relays from Amazon for my fans. One for each. They're bigger than they look, but my car is function>form and I have had too many relays stick closed when they're exposed to high amp draw situations. I am also a fan (heh) of the ring terminals as opposed to spades.

The Sniper has a function built in to turn off the AC, which it sounds like you knew. Yes, you will want to wire the compressor through that relay so that it can cut AC off. Use the same compressor wire that is signaling the Sniper to kick the idle up anyway.

Edit: More info on the AC system setup, idle kick, etc, can be found here.
 

ttocs

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Just curious, what is your wiring experience? I ask because it doesn't take more than a couple of relays with some bad/messy wiring to make a royal mess of it all. If you do not have a set plan on where they are going to go, how they are going to mount and where the wiring goes you need to give it some thought. You will need them in a place that later on if there are problems that you can test wires/connections.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Already ahead of you on that. Working on drawing everything out so I get it right. Was planning on mounting them either on the strut tower or the fender wall where the air box used to sit. Somewhere in that general area. Once I finish my drawing, I’ll copy it here and have you guys double check my work. I already fried the touch, don’t want to do a repeat.
 

ttocs

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get yourself a 3 ring binder and start printing out/writing down all the little crap your doing, wires connecting to, ect. A year or two down the road you may need that to remember what is what.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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OK, so here is what I came up with for the relays. The images are more for illustration than anything else. Just let me know if I got it right, close or way off base.
95_Mustang_Relays.jpg
 

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