Started my search

Ronin · Mar 30, 2010

Yesterday I checked out my first Mustang...a 96 GT with a Procharger. It has about 92,000 miles on it, and the thing was absolutely beautiful considering it's a 14 year old car. Engine bay was mostly immaculate. There were a few things that concerned me...the intake made kind of an oscillating, whistling sound, which he told me was due to needing a new filter...this made sense, since the filter looked like it had seen better days. The CEL was on, which he told me happened a couple of days ago and is just the O2 sensors (which look to be about $50 a piece). I believe him, but my last car (MR2 Spyder) had a CEL related to the evap system that didn't go away after about 6 different parts had been replaced, so I'm understandably hesitant. Lastly, the clutch was stiffer than...well, it was really damn stiff, which is great and all, but would probably get really old really fast when commuting in stop and go traffic.

Other than that, it was great. Showed me a dyno chart of it making about 330 RWHP. I'd say that felt about right in the seat of my pants. He said he didn't need to sell it, but it's still strange that he wouldn't pay the little money (what, $200 for 2 O2s and a filter) to make it run golden. I'm going to keep looking, but the bar has been set.

Edit: Just so we're clear, I do know roughly what the SC SHOULD be sounding like, and that's not what this was...just sounded...off. Not to mention, he's the one that mentioned it before I even started it.

badass98svt · Mar 30, 2010

How much?

Paul · Mar 30, 2010

Run away. If it was a simple fix, he would've done it. Don't buy some else's headache.

Ronin · Mar 30, 2010

Paul said:
Run away. If it was a simple fix, he would've done it. Don't buy some else's headache.

That's exactly what I'm thinking. To answer your question, P.J., $6500.

1996mustangGT · Mar 30, 2010

Paul nailed it. MOVE ON.

Venom351R · Mar 30, 2010

to many other stangs out there for sale that dont have issues. If anything is a simple fix someone will fix it before putting it up for sale.

badass98svt · Mar 30, 2010

$6500 is steep for a car with issues. It's steep period. i'd go with a big fat no.

GT Rob · Mar 30, 2010

I agree 6500 to much i got mine for 4500 completely stock everything still working.All the work that is done to it I've done myself.Keep looking you'll find the right one.Good luck

Ronin · Mar 30, 2010

Yeah, about $4500 is what I'm looking for out of a stock GT. If there weren't issues, I would have thought a procharger GT with less than 100k miles on it would be about right at $6500, partially on account of where I live...I hate AZ sometimes. But yeah, that's probably a bit much.

Anyway, I will be moving on. Looking at a 97 Cobra tomorrow. (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/1629382096.html) If it get it, the wheels will probably be for sale/trade shortly there after.

I've talked to this guy. It will pass emissions and has no CEL. So far so good.

badass98svt · Mar 30, 2010

That looks like a much nicer car for the money.

Mods don't necessarily add to the value, just keep that in mind.

Ronin · Mar 30, 2010

You're absolutely right, sometimes I let that get to my head. Purity is usually best. For example, I recently looked for a 300ZX, since I did have a lot of fun in mine...found a guy selling a 1990 (first year of the second version of the 300ZX), NA, no performance, no aftermarket stereo, 45k original miles...for $9.5k. That's impressive, for sure, but would almost only appeal to a collector...and most collectors wouldn't be interested in the mass production of the NA models. Even the TTs for that year had a lot produced.

Anyway, I digress, hopefully it's as nice as it looks.

Ronin · Apr 1, 2010

Having trouble hooking up with the Cobra owner, but I certainly haven't lost interest. Hopefully will see it tomorrow or Friday.

Have a few other options:
90 Fox GT: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1671104876.html
92 Fox GT: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/1670710493.html

I'm definitely leaning more towards the 90, assuming everything works and it will pass emissions. It also has less miles. After searching, I can see that heater cores are a problem on Foxes, and a bitch to replace. I would imagine that's what's wrong with the 92...but at the same time, it's probably just a matter of time before the same needs to happen for the 90. broken speedo, any ideas? It is cheaper, significantly. May even be able to get him down to 3600, 3750.

Ronin · Apr 1, 2010

And on a related note...if I could convince myself to take the extra money I would have by buying one that cheap...say $1500 after taking care of a few suspension components (subframe, strut bar, sway bars...I can't help it, I'm coming from a nimble canyon carver, gotta recapture some of that), what should I do? that's not enough for a SC, unless it's used and in questionable condition.

MustangChris · Apr 1, 2010

Paul can give you priceless advise if you are looking into a fox.

Paul · Apr 1, 2010

I don't know how "priceless" my advice is since the last two cars I bought I overpaid, and both of them had motors that failed almost immediately. LOL

Here's my .02
- Don't buy someone else's project.
- Climb under the car, and inspect the torque boxes to see if there is any damage. That indicates the car has been abused. Also, check the condition of the C-pillars. If they have a "crease" the car has been flogged a bit.
- Bring a code scanner. Use it.
- Check EVERYTHING. Windows, locks, A/C, tilt column, heat, seats, radio, power steering, leaks, clunks, noises.
- Ask for maintenance records. Who performed the work?
- If something is wrong, you can use it as leverage to lower the price, especially if you don't mind fixing it yourself. For example, a car with a bad clutch is a big problem for an average joe, and you can knock a ton off the price. However, a clutch swap is pretty easy.
- Less mods is typically better, but "saving a little coin" by buying a car with the basics already done isn't a bad idea. (e.g. exhaust and gears)
- A car that has recently passed emissions is at least a little sign that it runs reasonably well.

I'm sure other folks will chime in with more stuff.

Paul.

MustangChris · Apr 1, 2010

well im sure if anyone knew cronic 302 problems to look out for, it would be you. lol.

let us know how the drive in the cobra goes, Ronin!

sn95gtvert · Apr 1, 2010

also dont forget to check for clean coolent and brake fluid. before driving the car feel the rotors surface for flatness, and waves in them are a good sign someone has been rough with it. and my last tip would be to take a look at the qaud shocks on the rear end, if the bushings look like crap then you can assume the rest of the bushings on the car look the same way. unless they have service records of them being replaced.

Ronin · Apr 2, 2010

Drove the Cobra today. Holy crap that thing's loud. The guy just put the mufflers on, didn't pipe it to the back of the car...very "droney", and maybe that's to be expected. I'd probably want resonators for any long trips. Granted, the only car I've owned with exhaust was the Spyder, so maybe I just need to get used to it.

Power was...disappointing. not compared to the SC'ed GT I drove earlier, I was expecting this Cobra to be less than that. I've been driving my father's 300ZX TT (used to be mine) for the past few days now, so I have a good basis for what 305 HP should feel like (to be fair, it's probably 305 hp in the Z with the intake, plus I have a lightened flywheel). Despite having a lot less torque, and me running the AC in the Z, the Z seemed to pull a lot harder than the Cobra. This is all seat-of-the-pants subjective, didn't actually time it, so maybe it's just boost on a 70 degree day that's messing with my head.

Everything seemed to be working, no CEL. Was disappointed in his wheel/tire choice...he's got 245s out back, which is not enough for the tq in the Z, so I would imagine much less so in a Cobra. So they would definitely have to go.

He's a smoker, and he did a good job of cleaning it up, but it was still slightly noticeable.

There were some rattles that seemed to come from suspension, he hasn't touched the suspension, so it probably just needs to be done.

Also...is there a difference in leg room from GTs to Cobras? I'm 6'4", so leg room can be an issue. There seemed to be more room in the GT I drove than the Cobra. It was fine for driving, but shifting required a lock of cocking of my knee...unless the start position of the pedal can be moved down...autos.msn.com says there's only 1.1 inches of difference in leg room, I wonder if there wasn't something wrong with his seat.

MustangChris · Apr 2, 2010

oh, it has dumps? no exhaust tips after the mufflers? dumps are very "droney" thats their biggest drawback.

if it has the stock H-pipe, you will want chambered mufflers. if it has an X pipe, you will want resonators. (thats kind of a rule-of-thumb... obviously you can stray away from that to make your car sound exactly how you want it to.)

no difference in leg room from 1994-2004 that i know of. there are aftermarket seat brakets that allow you to move the seat further back.

if you didnt like the cobra, look for something else... mustangs come and go. i would personally avoid a smokers car. but thats just me.

keep in mind $500.00 to a set of gears will change that car into another animal.
i gave a ride in my 1996 2v with 4.10 gears to a friend with a blown GT and he was amazed at the performance on the low end.

burns rubber into 2nd gear with only 194 RWHP ;-D lol.

dont fear the gear.

badass98svt · Apr 2, 2010

As for the loss of tq, a set of 4.30s will more than remedy that situation. I promise. I have a 98 4V as well

Maybe the power seat is broken. Did you try to power it further back?