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Discussion in 'General Tech' started by mickey, Feb 28, 2015.
Will sub frame connectors from a fox body work on a sn95 specifically a 98?
Yes all of the subframes I know of work on 79-04 cars since it's the same basic platform underneath.
I prefer the full length versions from Maximum Motorsports or Stifflers because of the overall stiffness and they're contoured to your frame for a tighter fit.
I hope this helps
I found a guy selling a set of new bbks and I wasn't sure if they would work on my 98.
Seen a little bit of talk about them from time to time, whats the advantage of adding them? Do our mustangs get a lot of unibody flex?
after installing a good set of sub frame connectors you can jack either side of the car up with one jack and not just one wheel. Makes a HUGE difference in stiffness an don't bother with bolt in get the weld in.
Anyone on here installed a set themselves? I have the MM full length on the way an was thinking of doing it to save a little cash. I have a decent 110 welder but its flux core. I'm not a welder by any means but decent enough for something like that under a car that would never be seen lol
never being seen is one thing but you need a solid weld to get the full use of them. You also need it on a lift with the wheels on the ground far enough over you to weld. I went to a pro for mine....
What happens if someone welds them in using a 2 post lift?
^^ the body is flexing/pulling on a 2 post and will be out of resting postion; that's why you need the suspension compressed.
I understand whats happening, was just curious if anyone has attempted it. Or what it did to the car.....
Gotchya......not a chance that I would attempt on a 2 post
Basically the body of the car would constantly be forced into a flexed/bowed state and everything would be under tension all the time leading to fatigue in the metal.
From what I understand as long as it's supported at the k member and rear axle it should be fine if it isn't actually on the tires. I know the welds need to be strong. Any of mine that I've tested never fail they just aren't pretty is all.
K member and axle would be fine but I am not sure how many lifts lift from those points. It would be easy enough to put it on jack-stands and then go for it but I personally just want a little more room between the car and the floor myself for that job. I hazard a guess with as much flex as is in the car that if you jacked it at any different point you would have some serious gaps between the connectors and the car and would not be surprised if any weak welds were broke when it was put back on the road and driven. It also opens up all kinds of possibilities of welding your frame into anything but a perfectly straight/square frame which could leave all kind of problems later in performance.
I originally bought a set of MM full length SFC's, but when the shop went to install them, they told me they couldn't because the frame rails and torque box area was beat up too much from previous owners failed jacking attempts. They ended up ordering me a set of Steeda full lengths - I guess because there's a torque box area plate thing that reinforces it/makes it easier to weld. I don't know. All I know is this...
...which is correct. Placing the jack behind a front wheel and jacking up the car also jacks up the rear wheel on that same side. Very convenient. One may not pay attention to it, really, but I had an eye-opening experience when rotating the tires on our A4. I had to use two jacks because the rear wheel stayed on the ground even though I jacked the car up behind the front wheel. Very annoying. When I did my STI, it behaves the same as my Mustang with full length SFC's - one jack lifts up the entire side of the car. The A4 has a lot more flex in it (but it's also a smoother ride, so it's not a surprise after I thought about it).
our cars flex like a son of a gun! And I mean a lot! Trying to not support the whole car as advised by having the suspension & full weight on it will lead to bad results...why risk it, not very expensive to have a pro do it. Also you want to be careful & not overheat any one area as you can catch the carpet on fire doing this! My shop guy kept the welder time to a minimum & cooled it down as he went, took longer but no issues at all. I personally know of a friend that did burn his carpet!
I had a guy in my club do his own and caught the interior on fire. His DIY paint job, while i did not catch it on fire, had similar looking results. When I had mine done I also had them take off the drive shaft and the x-pipe and spray the bottom with lizard skin.