Throw Out Bearing Noise Normal?

Terrorist 5.0

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Hi everyone. Not sure if this belongs here but then again, maybe it is a dumb question haha

I’ve replaced my throw out bearing about a year and a half ago, and all is decent. Last night, I pushed the car (95 GT) pretty hard. I’m talking 120 MPH on the highway for extended periods of time. I also stumbled upon a “slide pit” (I believe that is what they are called, hundreds of people gather while others do donuts in the middle), and slid the car for a while as well.

Legality and safety aside (I try to hoon responsibly), I noticed the throw out bearing starting to squeak. Went away as soon as I touched the clutch pedal. The biting point remained about the same, so I don’t think the cable stretched.

I suppose the bearing could have gotten hot from being at high RPM (3000-4500) for extended periods of time, but the noise goes away the next day usually. I haven’t tried the next day to see if it went away yet.

My question is, is it normal for the bearing to start making a little noise if the car is being raced for an extended period of time (minutes at a time)?
 

cobrajeff96

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Probably what happened is you wore quite a bit of clutch material away during all the hooning. Now usually as the clutch wears over time and mileage, the PP fingers actually expand outward. Those of us with hydraulic TOBs actually have to account for this when we do initial setup and leave 1/8" air gap to account for the wear over time. In your case, the TOB should have "constant contact" with a slight amount of preload actually. If anything, there is now slightly more preload as the PP fingers should have expanded somewhat. Either there is too much or too little preload...... or it could be that the TOB just can't handle the smoke and it's on its way out. The OEM units and their aftermarket copies are really not meant for long-term competitive abuse.
 
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Terrorist 5.0

Terrorist 5.0

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Yikes that’s no good, hope I’m not gonna have to take my trans out for the third time. My cable seemed to have stretched a little by the time I made it home so I tightened it one click, I did forget to mention that part.

It still had more than sufficient preload though. Really hope my little bearing is ok!
 
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Terrorist 5.0

Terrorist 5.0

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I haven't checked (I might soon), but my theory is that when the car is raced, the grease inside the bearing thins out from getting too hot. Once the bearing cools off, all is well again. That could explain the noise going away.

The one thing that has me doubting myself is that normally if the grease overheats bad enough, the bearing will puke it all out, and then you are in a world of hurt.

Keeping my fingers crossed for now haha, McLeod really letting me down here.
 
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Terrorist 5.0

Terrorist 5.0

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Little update, changed the water today and took the car for a spin, the noise came back. I tightened the cable multiple clicks, and while it is now less so, it is still there. For fun, I decided to measure the force it takes to push the pedal half an inch as per MM instructions.

I don’t like to treat it like rocket science, but by feel, I get 7-8 lbs, the upper end of MM recommendation. I am at nearly 15, almost 3 times the recommendation and the noise is still present, and the clutch is releasing higher than normal.

Things are looking bleak. I may have pushed the Mustang just a little too hard for a little too long.
 

cobrajeff96

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I can't recommend the Modern Driveline SN95 system enough. It's been amazing, and I beat the crap outta this thing all day every day out here on the autobahns and local roads. The Tilton hydro bearing has been pure beef.
 
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I can't recommend the Modern Driveline SN95 system enough. It's been amazing, and I beat the crap outta this thing all day every day out here on the autobahns and local roads. The Tilton hydro bearing has been pure beef.
I would love to, but I live in an apartment and am prohibited from doing any serious work. I have no one to accommodate me either. Also, I don't have the money. To top it off, to do this on a car that already has concerning rust problems is really stopping me.

Not to sound like a wuss, but I am seriously considering selling the car. I simply don't have the place to keep up with it's needs. Plus, I am thinking I may try finding a rust free example instead of putting any more money in a car that is gonna break my heart down the road.

We will see... It is just such a shame that nobody can make parts worth a shit anymore. It’s happened that every single time I try to fix something on the car, it ends up with a flaw or flat out doesn’t work because of the parts I bought. It is REALLY annoying to say the least haha
 
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cobrajeff96

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It wouldn't surprise me if all the OE-spec TOBs came straight from China.

I hear ya. I've had to face down similar hard choices in the past. Right time and place kinda thing is what it usually comes down to.
 

ttocs

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be sure to get a ford racing tob or the one that they repackage from american bearing company I thought or something like that. It is been years since I had to look into it.
 

SPeace-ATL

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I will add that if there is no preload on the TOB they tend to "bounce" off of and back onto the clutch fingers. This intermittent contact is what I attribute the squeaking to. If the squeak goes away with a light touch on the pedal it probably is bouncing around. I recommend tightening the cable just a bit.

If it is smooth and quiet when engaging the clutch then the bearing condition itself would be fine.

Now, some folks want an air gap on the TOB. That increases the chance of the squeak unless one can put a spring on the clutch fork to hold the TOB back away from the clutch fingers so the TOB won't touch unless the foot is on the clutch.

Yes, heavy use can affect clutch finger height and cable stretching, so it all factors in...

Stan
 
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Terrorist 5.0

Terrorist 5.0

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I will add that if there is no preload on the TOB they tend to "bounce" off of and back onto the clutch fingers. This intermittent contact is what I attribute the squeaking to. If the squeak goes away with a light touch on the pedal it probably is bouncing around. I recommend tightening the cable just a bit.

If it is smooth and quiet when engaging the clutch then the bearing condition itself would be fine.

Now, some folks want an air gap on the TOB. That increases the chance of the squeak unless one can put a spring on the clutch fork to hold the TOB back away from the clutch fingers so the TOB won't touch unless the foot is on the clutch.

Yes, heavy use can affect clutch finger height and cable stretching, so it all factors in...

Stan
I have it tightened quite a bit, I will try tightening it until it stops squealing but it is already very tight.
 
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Terrorist 5.0

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Definitely bad. It slips by the time the bearing is quiet.

Surprisingly, the noise is less when the preload is loosened, but still there. The only time it is silent is for the first 10 minutes of driving. I believe my fun night out may have overheated and degraded and/or evacuated all the grease in the bearing.

Unfortunately, I have also decided to put my Mustang up for sale. Amazing ride, but I don’t have the means to keep up with this old horse. Not in an apartment complex. Gotta move on to the next dream car.

Maybe a New Edge… although Mustang problems are what I am trying to avoid in the first place. I can’t help but tinker!
 

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