Torsen Diff Install

mineralgreygt

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Hi All,

I currently have a supercharged GT with a FTBR IRS in the back and have been looking to swapping out my LSD for a Torsen T2R. Doesn't anyone have a good DIY or know where I can find one? I'm trying to determine weather its worth trying to tackle this on my own or just get someone else to do it. I'm looking to rebuild it with all new seals and bearing while its apart. I am mechanically inclined and have access to just about everything I think I would need to rebuild the housing I just dont have the experience or the know how. Thanks in advance
 

OLD H2S

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Buy it new? The 2R comes in the new Mustang and the 3R has a higher multiplier in it and really digs hard out of the corners. I did the 3R in mine and converted to rear air bags to adjust for the squat easier, the rear coil overs were too much of a pain to keep upping the spring rate and then have to change to fronts to match and made the whole set up too hard for the street.
I like the unit and it is quite and smooth but I had the car set for racing and now have gone back to street and the 3R hooks hard when I punch it. Your IRS could be a better set up? But your going to have to check your ride height because there could be rubbing when you get the suspension wrapped up under power. The set up is for NO wheel spin and Torson says not to do drag starts or burnouts so plan accordingly, it will put a lot of strain on the power train with high HP and I have had to reshim the rear end to keep it tight. I should switch to the Ford heavy duty diff. bearing set up. Install is easy and now is the time to change the ratio if you want, save the old crush spacer and have a solid one made, they are cheap and strong and keep the pinion tight under big power.
 
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mineralgreygt

mineralgreygt

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I was looking at the Torsen T2R Maximum Motorsports offers with a 4:1 torque bias. I called them at maximum and gave them a run down of my setup, I have coilovers up front but not in the rear, the only concern they seem to have was I was going to get a lot more body roll in the rear due to the extra grip so they recommended a beefier sway bar. I asked about launching and they said they wouldn't recommend drag racing with slicks on it but they have done many 0-60 times on their track car with no issues. I did a lot of searching and I have not seen anyone report one broken yet, MM also said the same. This is pretty much my race/street car, I like to do Auto X and Circle track stuff with it, soon road courses. I am pretty happy with my 3.55s I just figured since I am in there might as well replace all the bearings and seals. I just bought a fresh set of 315s vs my current 295s and see how it goes.
 

OLD H2S

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Again the Torsen is made not to spin but to hook up and dig you out of corners, so RR and AutoX are where it helps. I have the adjustable rear bar set up from MM and play with the settings and like the solid 3/4" bar on the softest setting, when I add more bar the front steering changes too much and wants more front spring which is all well and good when you record your settings and make changes for the course but get to be a pain to change so much just to drive home with your teeth and kidneys intact.
 

evilcw311

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What’s so different about the torsion as opposed to the diff that came factory in the cobra irs???


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mineralgreygt

mineralgreygt

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What’s so different about the torsion as opposed to the diff that came factory in the cobra irs???


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an LSD which came standard relies on clutches to keep the wheels spinning at the same speed and if one wheel loses traction in continues doing so, a torsen does not allow this, what ever wheel has the most traction gets the torque applied to it thus traction is way better around a corner when exiting. You get an enormous improvement in traction on corner exits
 

OLD H2S

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And it comes in different multipliers T2/T3 that determine how much power it can absorb before the wheels start to spin at loss of traction. A locker just spins both wheels at brake away.
I am at 325 RWT on skinny 235/35/17 tires and I notice it is much harder to lose traction than the Ford HD/Marauder diff I was running before, but that power is putting a strain on the power train by not letting the wheels spin. So I am running a light car, 3500 pounds at low power, 325 RWT with the T3 and it is hard to fish tail out of turns or slide to the low side like with a locking diff.
I am running a torque arm so I do not windup and change the pinion angle under power but hook up and dig out of corners.
 

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