truck window problems

94mustanggtfast

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i have a 1994 f350 crew cab. i replaced the plastic bushings in the front window motors and the passenger rear window motor they work great now. the driver rear will spin one direction but not the other with the switch at the motor the driver switch wont do anything. what could that be? and it wont lock i cant push it down i dont know if thats part of the problem
 

ttocs

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what were the problems you were having that you needed to replace the bushings? The drivers rear, does it do the same thing no matter if the drivers switch nor the switch in the door are activated?

". the driver rear will spin one direction but not the other with the switch at the motor the driver switch wont do anything. what could that be?" - I would have to ask you the same question, what is the drive switch that isn't doing anything?

If you have a volt meter this is the time to get it out, turn it on and set it to DC voltage. If you don't have a voltmeter go to the zone and spend $10 on a cheap one or even just a test light. Check power on the wires at the motor first. With a volt meter just stab the wires going into the window motor and is should show 12v when pushed on way, and -12v when pushed the other way. If you do not get that, then go test the switch you are using and test the wires on the bottom of it for voltage.

Now I am typing all this up assuming that its a 5 wire reverse polarity system which means the motor will only have two wires going to it. If you get to the motor and it has 5 wires going to it troubleshooting will be a little more difficult.
 
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94mustanggtfast

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no it just has two wires. yea i have a voltmeter just didnt have time to get it out today. the plastic bushings were destroyed in all four motors. im guessing there called bushings
 

ttocs

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stab the wires at the motor and the push the buttons to see if you get anything at the motor. Be sure to use both the master switch at the drivers seat as well at the back door. Its important to test both because the switches work in a master/slave configeration so it is possible that the drivers switch is the bad point in the circuit that is then keeping the slave switch from operating. again at the motor if the switches are working up will show +12v and down should show a -12v or just the opposite depending on how you have your meter leads hooked up. If you find power at the regulator wires then it means your regulator is bad.

If you do not have power there then go to the master switch in the drivers door and see and stap the wires at the switch. There will be 5 pins on the back and its been a while but I think the one in the middle is hot and then when the switch is pushed it will send power out from one of the 4 pins on the outside.

Finally if the master switch tests good then repeat what you did there on the slave switch. By then you should hopefully find something that is not working.
 

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