chrisjb521 said:
How hard is it to swap gaskets? :dunno:
honestly it depends on whether or not you have anti lock brakes.
If you dont, you can remove most of your brake lines and not be quite so careful and scared about air in the system. This will make the driver side much easier.
Its easier if you have a skinny guy, like me, because I can lay on the floor and reach up to the header bolts on the bottom. (and valve cover bolts too, but thats a different story)
undo your battery.
Take off your "down pipes" (i know theres no turbo, but i dont know what else to call them) from your header to your cats/crossover. its roughly 2 bolts on each side. here is a picture or mine on my FRPP headers.
<img src="
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/11/web/2339000-2339999/2339592_38_full.jpg">
take those bolts off, take out your O2s (if they are there), take off the 2 bolts before your mufflers and after your crossover (pics below) and drop your "down pipes", cats, and crossover all in one big piece, you can even leave it under the car.
<img src"
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/11/web/2339000-2339999/2339592_6_full.jpg">
now take off your strut bar (if you have one) from the engine bay. then take off the brake lines off your master cylinder, try not to move them too much, the less air you get in the system the better.
remove the clutch cable from the firewall. (2 tiny bolts)
remove the valve cover bolt with the dipstick and move the dipstick (if needed, if you can work around this, try to)
unbolt the headers, go for the top ones from the top of the car, and the bottom ones from under the car.
throw away the old gasket, place the new gasket on with 3M spray on glue. (its pretty cheep, i have a neighbor who gives it to me for free, it just makes the gasket stay in one place when moving parts around)
Place the header back in position, and bolt them down in the proper bolt pattern and to manufacture's TQ specs. (find that online.. or in chiltons/haynes)
if the set of gaskets came with other parts, try and use them when possible. some set come with a grommet type of material that goes between the header and the exhaust pipe (picture 1.) if the other parts dont fit, and your current set up doesnt use them, discard them.
on the passenger sideyou have to remove the intake, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, and thats about it.
remove header bolts, place new gasket, reassemble.
i suggest NOT taking the headers ALL the way out of the car. Leaving them IN the car and just taking out and adding the new gaskets will make it easier. You may not need to remove the brake lines or clutch cable, or dipstick if you LEAVE THE HEADERS IN...
After reassembling the car, start it up and take a video to show it off for us... after that, put your exhaust back on.
Start the car again, get in and test the brakes. You may need to bleed the brakes if you took the lines off. (no big deal) if they are smooshy, they have air and you need to bleed them.
You can avoid taking the brake lines off by LEAVING THE HEADERS IN THE CAR.
if i forgot anything, or if anyone has anything to add, please feel free. This is exactly how we did my friends headers. :dancing6:
