What do you guys think about this company/heads

1996mustangGT

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Ive only heard/seen good things. Guy in my local car club is running high 6.xx's in the 1/8th mile with those heads, on a turbo'd 302 fox coupe.
 
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Photonfanatic

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So they are better than trick flow and edelbrock and AFR as a general rule? If so, is there anyone better than Brodix? If they are a cut above, then who is a cut above them?
 

jo4roush99

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Brodix makes good heads, but I wouldnt say they are better or worse than Trickflow and AFR. All of them make really good heads. I know of people that have had good results with AFR and Trickflow, and a few years back I know alot of people running 600hp super late model circle track cars really liked Brodix heads. (but these were high revving small block chevys).
 

Venom351R

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You cant say (name a brand head) is better then (name another brand head) when you are talking about the front runners in head design. Trickflow, AFR, Brodix, Edelbrock, Cantfield are all excellent heads. There are a few out there that are sub par, such as procomp.

When comparing heads you have to look at their features not what brand they are. The Combustion chamber size, the valve size, exhaust valve size, is there any port work done, exc exc... Diffrent types of heads are built more for boost or more for NA so in that case a Trickflow head with a large combustion chamber is a better choice then a AFR with a smaller combustion chamber if its going on an engine with boost. I had AFR heads on mine that were built for boost and I took them off and replaced them with heads that are more suited for NA. It all depends on the application and the make up of the heads. Heads can be anywhere from mild to wild depending on the amount of work done to them. The heads in my sig cost as much a vortech set up but they have been heavly ported have larger valves, have an expensive valve spring kit and were custom built. It all depends on your combo and needs of the engine so its just not as simple as saying X brand heads are better then the other X brand heads.
 
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Photonfanatic

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Somewhere I heard that if you take Brodix and put them beside the equivilant Trickflow or Edelbrock, Brodix comes out on top because their machine process is superior. Which would be why they cost more.
 

Venom351R

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I really dont see how the machine process can be superior. All aluminum heads are made on CNC machines but any of the top companies are going to have a great machineing process unlike some ohters like procomp who have been subject to quality issues. One thing you can compare from heads of similar size is their flow numbers
 
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Photonfanatic

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Ok thanks for the explanations. What would you say is the reason for the cost difference between Brodix and the other good ones? If there isn't much real difference, then they are kind of proud of their stuff lol
 
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Photonfanatic

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Alright well on to my next question then. Might as well.

How far can you go with just a mild cam? One that doesn't really shake the car. Can you overcome the mildness of the cam a little bit, with great heads? For some reason I'm thinking that if you really get up there into say the 500 RWHP range, you're going to have to have an agressive cam setup.
 
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Photonfanatic

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Are there any heads that are pretty much fully ported and polished and come with the best valves and springs and rocker arms right out of the box? I guess they have to leave some meat on them for port matching.
 

RichV

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What's your goal? What do you do with the car?

You need to mod the car based on what you want, not an arbitrary 'best' based on what a bunch of dudes on the net think.

All of those are good heads and they come, or can be bought so you can customize valvetrain based on your power goals. Valves and cam for a stock bottom end may be different than when building a motor for 9000 RPM. So the 'best' is a different setup for each scenario. Drag racer versus road racer, the best will be different for each application.
 

ttocs

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I am running trickflow Twisted wedge heads and a stage 1 cam on my 94 gt and if you don't like the motor shaking the car you might want to keep the stock cam. Even with a stage 1 it makes for a slight lope and shakes the car but its personally I love the sound and have got so many compliments on the sound of the car since doing it. The stage 1 is supposed to have a mild idle too...
 

95opal

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Alright well on to my next question then. Might as well.

How far can you go with just a mild cam? One that doesn't really shake the car. Can you overcome the mildness of the cam a little bit, with great heads? For some reason I'm thinking that if you really get up there into say the 500 RWHP range, you're going to have to have an agressive cam setup.

500RWHP is gonna take more than an agressive cam to get there. As far as heads go it all depends on your combo and goals. Dont expect OTS heads to have great valvetrain parts in them as most are marginal at best.
 

Musturd

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Yea you need to figure out what you want out of this combo 500rwhp if it were me it would be a dart block with a big solid roller and some Yates heads possibly c3's they out flow all the above stated but the heads are huge and are big dollar heads. When you wanna make big power N/A expect to pull out ur wallet
 

ProKiller

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the consensus is we need more info to help build you a combo. what are the uses for the car and the power goal?

if 500hp is really your only goal, get a trickflow top end kit and a vortech. done.
 

OnyxCobra

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I really dont see how the machine process can be superior. All aluminum heads are made on CNC machines but any of the top companies are going to have a great machineing process


Some heads have CNC milled air runners and combustion chambers which are obviously going to be more expensive than ones without.
 
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Photonfanatic

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Well I'd like to use the stock bottom end for now. And I while the car really isn't a "daily" driver, I do drive it 4 or 5 times a week. So I'm not really into it being super loud and shakey. So I guess its going to be kind of mild in the power department. Which heads setup should I get for the stock bottom end? And is there a cam that's bigger than stock but doesn't quite get to that "shake the car" point?
 

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