What does it take to make a well built bottom end?

[ttocs]

So I am not afraid to admit I am an idiot with motors and trying to learn anything/everything I can. While I have my motor out to do the engine bay smoothing I can't help but wonder what I could/would be good to upgrade? I am planning on going with a supercharger in the future and would like to be able to not worry about hurting the bottom end have a nicely built motor but I really do not even know where to begin... Any help?

 

[scott5]

Honestly save up for a good block first, but to answer your question u need forged internals with good pistons

 

[Orange 94]

"What does it take to make a well built bottom end"

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You could put a supercharger on a stock motor and as long as you're running it somewhat mildly it would be fine. But if you insist on building the motor, take a look at forged pistons and rods to start with.

 

[ttocs]

Forged internals = pistons/crank?

 

[RichV]

I would buy a crate motor from one of the big suppliers when it's time. Made to handle whatever you can put to it.

While it's out, I'd probably clean/paint (or powder)/detail all the stuff you can't normally get to. I would swap the clutch (not sure if you have a AOD or T5), TOB, lighter flywheel, and some poly motor mounts.

 

[g36 monkey]

Forged pistons, crank (some cranks don't come forged, but they are strong enough as is), rods, rings, locks, so on.

ARP hardware throughout.


If I were doing a 5.0 build, shooting for boost I would look at a 331 forged stroker kit in a dart block, with a nice cam.

Nice stout motor, extra displacement, and stronger than the stock block ever thought about being.

 

[LilRoush]

Power goal will tell you how far you need to go.

 

[justinschmidt1]

With a 5.0 pushrod based setup the block will split before the actual pistons/rod/crank is in danger but if you're gonna do it, might as well do the whole thing right and get a good block, forged pistons, rods, crank.

Of course this doesnt usually happen unless you're pushing 500+hp at the ground and revving it over 6k a lot.

If you plan on a 350-450 rwhp setup you're wasting your money

 

[ttocs]

400-450 at the wheels was about the number I was aiming for so I know is on that line. Already have the trickflow heads and a ported cobra upper so I didn't really know what the weak link in the chain is or would be. I already have arp bolts but they are 4 yrs old now and I traded an extra part I had for a new set here so I they will be going in for sure. I really just want to have as bullet-proof a car as I can. Do it right and do it once so I am not constantly pulling/installing it ya know. Would I be better off just getting a nice built short block?

 

[justinschmidt1]

The issue with that is you could spend 5k and build the motor and have a bad tune and it blows up but yea, if you want it "bullet proof" a built short block is what you need.

I guess you know where I stand, if it were me I wouldnt touch that motor if your goal is 400-450 at the wheels

 

[99GreenStang]

My suggestion is if your not engine savvy buy one already done but by all means if your confident go for it yourself. For an engine that will handle all what you can throw at it im sure you could just buy a bottom end kit from a major supplier such as summit . basically just go with everything forged rods , crank , pistons , arp hardware ( make sure to get ARP TORQUE SPECS !) ... If you had the cash I would just buy one already done and warrantied myself .

 

[SLOW95GTS]

Get a DSS or CHP short block for 2500 bucks or 4500 buck with the dart block.
It'll last a while depending on how you drive the car.

 

[Musturd]

Just buy a blower . You can break 500rwhp with ur setup and a good fuel system and a blower at 10lbs

 

[5jvenom]

if you want to make 400-450Rw cheaply here is my ..somewhat expert advice...

stock 302 from 87-92 -> those had stock forged pistons and rods
keep your heads and intake...
vortech s -trim on 10 psi..
shorty headers, off road H and good mufflers
good tune - SCT chip preferred


the problem with the 94/95 bottom ends is the hypereutectics and you will have to make sure to to be on your best behavior with fuel etc all day....plus, they are kind of crap shoot when it comes to having them hold up under boost.

with an 87-92 bottom end and the top end you have, you should be able to push 450rw+ without much of an issue and be safe....I would add methanol as a safety feature

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Any 5.0 bottom end will outlast the block which is why I have 0 clue why ppl put forged internals into a stock block unless they are going to stay NA. And then they get bit by the power bug and start pushing it with Nitrous or boost and are stuck at the 450-500whp limit because they didn't do it right the first time.

If you already have the TFS heads those are great. And the ported Cobra did you mean the LOWER or the upper? Because porting the upper is useless since the upper flows 250cfm stock and the lower only does 200. The lower can be safely taken out to 240-250cfm so that is what you get ported. If your lower is not ported then I'd pull it and send it to tmoss for his wizardry.

At this point as far as power, a simple S trim will get you there safely as long as you have it tuned well and a good fuel system. Also, make sure the rest of the car is set to handle the extra power. Trans, chassis stiffening, control arms etc... too many ppl have higher hp cars and can't get the power to the ground because they were so concerned about horsepower. I've seen bolt on 2V cars go mid 12s in the 1/4 because they were properly setup for drag racing. Then you get the 800hp GT500s that can't even run a 10 because they are still on the stock suspension/wheels/tires.

 

[castine917]

Stay stock and if it blows a junkyard replacement is effective for that power range. If going for more power call fordstrokers, dss,chp, etc or used market for dart block build.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Stay stock and if it blows a junkyard replacement is effective for that power range. If going for more power call fordstrokers, dss,chp, etc or used market for dart block build.

Agreed with this.

 

[ttocs]

sounds good fellas thanks for the help.

 

[full force]

Do a 28oz balance to stock crank will help keep it alive and harmonics down, I did that to a stock internal 306 and revved it 6700 for 5 years without issues, but like others said 500hp is the mark that a block will let loose, especially with a 50oz balance...

 

[BlkoutGT]

For simplicity just run it as she sits. Unless you have high miles and are looking to do a simple re-ring and bearing job. To make you feel a little better you can pick up some fox pistons/rods (as someone already mentioned) and toss them in there. A few years ago I picked some up on a local forum for 40 bucks. Line-hone and main studs if you want to get a little crazy. Best piece of advice is what a few have already said, don't waste that much money on a stock block if a power adder is planned to be used. With any extra stroke and a power adder your looking at over 500 hp easily at which it becomes a time bomb.