what spark plugs and gaskets would you recomed for a moderate vortech build?

Discussion in 'Forced Induction & Tuning' started by ttocs, Apr 2, 2015.

  1. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    I am starting to put parts back on the motor for a change and it occurred to me that it would be easier to swap the spark plugs while I have the headers off as well as I wasn't sure if I should upgrade any gaskets while I put the lower intake back together? I have a felpro kit but is there something better to use? Its not going to be a hard core racer by any means but I don't mind spending the extra cash for something that would hold up better.
     
  2. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

    Messages:
    836
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Montana
    I am running NGK TR6 plugs. Colder for the supercharger. Also have a different than stock gap. About 0.035.
     
  3. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    thanks I remember reading about a colder plug and seeing NGK recommended but its been a while.

    I should also ask what I need to do to the pcv valve. I am going to run a vented separator off of the valve covers and can't remember what was recommended to be done to the pcv...

    Any other advice of little crap I need to think about the help is appreciated with as little as I now about motors I know less about supercharged systems. Trying to learn...
     
  4. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

    Messages:
    836
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Montana
    What kind of power is your build going to be putting down? Estimated that is... Our engines are quite a bit different. As for your ventilation system I suspect you could use a valve cover breather? :undecided: You will need a OHV guy to chime in.

    Run a good boost gauge and a fat ass radiator.
     
  5. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    Kentucky
    For the intake gaskets, look for the felpro that end in s3 and choose the dimensions that best fit your head and intake ports. The s3 has some steel in it and isnt all paper. The 1250 1260 1262 are a few examples of the different sizes. As for the pcv, you can get a brass freeze out plug to cap off the hole, or use an expandable rubber plugs.
     
  6. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    I am currently aiming for just a safe 400 hp to start off with. I had a an bung welded to the valve covers and already have a catch can and lines to run to it to use I just could not remember what to do with the pcv.


    Thank you for the info. I am running trickflow tw 170 heads is there an easy way to figure out which one is the correct size? Also what about between the upper/lower is there a better option then the felpro set?

    Finally I was wondering if/when I will need to upgrade the fuel rails and if I keep the stock one for now should I replace the rubber hose between them?

    Thanks for the info guys I hope I don't bug you with all the questions I am sure I will have putting it all back together. I owe this site a big one for sure with all I have learned here
     
  7. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
  8. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    Kentucky
    The 1250 gaskets match the port size of 170 TFS heads exactly. The kit you linked will work, but I imagine the intake gaskets arent the s3 but instead, the all paper gaskets. I prefer having a steel core in every gaskets from oil pan to intake gaskets. Also, get some of the "right stuff" sealant, and toss the rubber intake end rails in the garbage. As for the stock fuel rails, they will support over 500 hp
     
  9. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    I had wondered about the rubber rails myself. Did they use to be cork?
     
  10. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

    Messages:
    836
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Montana
    A wideband gauge! Just remembered that, lots of really good information from those for boosted engines. Mine actually just saved me a ton of diagnostic work. As for answering questions; it's a car forum. I am here to talk cars because I love it and want to, ask away.
     
  11. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,761
    Likes Received:
    198
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2007
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    DONT use "Right Stuff" we had a guy on our local forum that used that shit and he went to take it back apart and couldnt get them apart. Lifted the whole car by the upper intake trying to get it to let loose. LoL
     
  12. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    Kentucky
    Some are rubber, some are cork, but I have always trashed them for a bead of rtv until the right stuff came about.
     
  13. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    I already had one but because my gauges are easily expandable I also got a temp sensor so I can monitor the intake temp as well.

    How about gorilla glue then? :) just kidding I already have some RTV ready to go.

    Good to know!
     
  14. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    Should I make any change to the thermostat?

    I got the newly coated lower installed today and was and then remembered I had to go to a friends birthday party this afternoon and had dinner plans tonight. Its nice to start putting things back on the car now and he newly coated upper sure looks perty....
     
  15. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

    Messages:
    836
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Montana
    I run a 180 degree thermostat. Standard operating range for gasoline engines is 180-195 degrees. Operating below this range causes poor heater performance, poor gas atomization and in turn loss of power. A thermostat operating anywhere in this range won't impact the capacity of your cooling system to cool your engine properly.

    EDIT: Better hurry up and get it running, gas isn't bad and nice weather is on its way!
     
  16. Michael Plummer

    Michael Plummer Active Member

    Messages:
    434
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Location:
    Brockton, MA
    What thermostat do you have in it now? For the record, I'm not a big supporter of lower temperature thermostats, and lower fan operating parameters, to fix cooling issues or to help your car run cooler. Before I get into why , if you have cooling issues (running hot) I'd rather see someone find the source of their issue and fix it.

    Running at stk. engine temperatures and using a stock thermostat is NOT a bad thing. Trust me, I have close to 300k miles on my car, and I use stk. cooling fan settings along with an 195 degree F thermostat. For some strange reason people get the impression their cars will melt to the ground if they run at stk. engine coolant temperatures. I wonder if that impression came from the internet.

    If you want to make the "most HP" from your setup, you'll need a hot engine, let me say it again, you'll need a "Hot Engine" and cool, cool, cool inlet air into the combustion chambers to make the most efficient HP. Yet, I see people trying to do the opposite. Cool engines and cool or hot inlet air temperatures is not the recipe for making the most efficient HP in a street car.

    Combustion chamber temperatures are in the thousands, running 20-30 degrees cooler in coolant temperatures is not even worth talking about. The 20-30 degrees is not linear, meaning your combustion chambers temperatures will NOT drop by 20-30 degrees F and will have no major effect on engine performance.

    In closing, a hot engine for best for cylinder sealing, cold intake air is best for power making, and oil temperatures in the range it was designed for, is the best protection. Sorry for the long rant, I could of left my reply at "What thermostat do you have in your car now"?
     
  17. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

    Messages:
    25,456
    Likes Received:
    2,473
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2009
    Location:
    Evansville Indiana
    pretty sure its been running a 190 all this time but its been a LONG time since I did it which is why I figure I will replace it now since I have the assembly apart. Its ran super solid as far as temps are concerned and in the summer could get up to the 205-210 range but never got above it. I picked up a 190 degree last night so hopefully with that and the ceramic coated intake it will keep the intake cool and the motor normal.
     
  18. TT94SVT

    TT94SVT Member

    Messages:
    118
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2014
    I like to think of the fel pro gaskets as a fuse and to be honest they have probably saved my motor, Yes there are gaskets that will probably never blow but do you want to risk it. I have gone through a few, from tuning issues. My thought is I'd rather change a gasket when I run lean and not a block or piston.
    Colder plugs I use the autolite 103.
    Intake gasket I use the standard fel pro for the gt40 heads and they hold up just fine.
    But good luck with the build the sound of boost on these v8's is awesome.