what would it take?

Steven

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AaRoN said:
Mine's been worth the effort so far.

It's all you kids running around saying "It's too hard to turn a wrench..wahhh...Modulars are SO diffucult...wahhh..".

:rollinglaugh: :rollinglaugh: thats funny as hell, because i lost count of the amount of motors i've built by myself. I'm sorry i don't agree with the idea that a 2v is worth the effort. If thats your excuse, that I don't want to turn a wrench, your a far from the truth my friend. I'm working on something constantly, always doing side jobs. Heater cores in foxes are a big money maker for me, as well 5 lug swaps and hci's. Just because i'm 18 (in less then a month), doesn't mean jack shit. While most teenagers are out playing sports, i'm in the garage getting ready for the big race that weekend. Turning wrenches is fine, until it becomes so pointless when you spend a great deal of money, time, and effort into a car that can barely crack 13's. Open your eyes aaron, the 2v is the most inefficient bang for your buck, especially when you have such little money intake as me.

They are a challenge to a degree, but not that difficult. just expensive, and they lack all feeling of "tough" or bad mofo car. I absolutely love to hear a badass mustang sit there and lope, that is one of the most awesome sounding things in the world to me, i can sit here and listen to videos constantly, even though i've listened to them time and time again before hand. It's damn near sad when you want to add cams to your modular and your easily talking 2x's the money, and thats if you buy used. They lack all the essence of badassness a cam'd up pushrod motor does. Oh, and if your here to defend against the 'dinosaurs' then be weary, 2v is just a 5.0 with crap heads and an extra cam. Without these dinosaurs, there would be no essence of fast.
 

Jrgunn5150

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I drove around, every single solitary day, with 500 rwhp. I got 23-26 mpg. i went back and forth acrossed the country, I lived in the SoCal desert, extreme heat, cold, nothing fazed it. i filled it up at the regular gas pump at Mobil. It was my daily driver, averaging about 50 miles a day.

Car handled great, no squeeks, rattles, shimmy's or shakes, and I could light the tires from 70 mph, or really piss off Porsche owners. I had a full interior, normal aftermarket stereo, 18" wheels, and ran an 11.89 at the track without trying. I had 10k in the motor, 3 in the trans, and 1 in the rear end. I bought it new, so all told, around 38k in the car total. This is an honest cost break down on my part. And that car is the kind of car that I want, a jack of all trades if you will. To me, it was totally worth it.

And I know a guy who runs low 13's with a converter, Kmember, 4.10's, full exhaust, PI intake and cams. so about 2k into it.
 

MrNiceGuy

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Paul said:
MrNiceGuy said:
caught me!

that was supposed to be a 13

Even at "13" - it's still bullshit. All day.



yea your right it's bullshit you know everything there is about everything.. i'm wrong i don't know what i'm talking about.. i haven't seen it with my own fuckin eyes or anything.. :hammer:
 

Paul

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Precisely.

Please list for me what mods, and what prices will get a stock 2v consistently into the 12s. Oh, and don't exceed $1300.

Paul.
 

MrNiceGuy

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MrNiceGuy said:
justinschmidt1 said:
MrNiceGuy said:
my friend did a pi swap, bolt-ons, tuned on a 125 shot, 4.10s, drag radials and he was running 11.90's

i forget his suspension set up though.. he sold the car almost a year ago..



i think he did all that with like 1200 bucks i want to say?

that car rode the f**k out


huh?

You trying to tell me you know a guy with
1) full pi swap =1k+ for parts ?
2) bolt ons ?
3) nitrous kit= 3-600?
4)tuned- xcal 400?
5) 4.10s= 250?
6) drag radials= 300?

1200 bucks?

Please explain that to me lol


How can you buy 2500 dollars worth of shit for 1200 lol


he bought the complete PI swap for like 250 bucks... 4.10's for around 80 bucks.. he already had the nitrous kit.. Sam at Coastal Dyno tuned it (unsure of the amount) 300 sounds about right for the radials.. and everything else was just misc shit..


so thats how he bought 2500 dollars worth of shit for 1200 bucks
 

Jrgunn5150

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Paul said:
So where is this wonder car today?

It's a wonder that if you spend 10k you can have 500 rwhp? It's in the scrapyard.

Paul said:
Precisely.

Please list for me what mods, and what prices will get a stock 2v consistently into the 12s. Oh, and don't exceed $1300.

Paul.

Nitrous, same as a 5.0 for 1300 bucks...
 

Jrgunn5150

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mphdyno.jpg


4be5d34f.jpg


8c5448d9.jpg


kneelsuckers.gif
 
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realitygt

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justinschmidt1 said:
AaRoN said:
Mine's been worth the effort so far.

It's all you kids running around saying "It's too hard to turn a wrench..wahhh...Modulars are SO diffucult...wahhh..".


Like reality saying he doesnt want to touch the engine but wants to run mid 13s haha

wtf are you talking about? i don't want to not touch the engine because "it's too hard" i don't want to dig into engine because it's my dd and i don't want to run into ANY problems at all. stfu.
 

AaRoN

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Just about every thread involving modding a 4.6 has turned into a parts-cost argument between pushrods and modulars. Why? Haven't we all discussed this 800 billion times already. We all have Mustangs. Why argue with each other?
 
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realitygt

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AaRoN said:
Just about every thread involving modding a 4.6 has turned into a parts-cost argument between pushrods and modulars. Why? Haven't we all discussed this 800 billion times already. We all have Mustangs. Why argue with each other?

idk. idk what all these people are trying to prove. the 4.6 is better in different ways than the 5.0 and vice verse.
 

Paul

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J.R. said:
Nitrous, same as a 5.0 for 1300 bucks...

So if you want to run consistent 12s with nitrous, you'll need:

Slicks/wheels
Gears
Exhaust
Proper Nitrous kit (including at a minimum a WOT switch, probably a bottle heater, etc...)
Jacket (for all power adder cars)

That alone will run >$1300.

Oh, and don't forget THE COST OF NITROUS. Nitrous is really expensive these days.

So, once again. Bullshit.

Paul.
 

jfor441

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Paul said:
J.R. said:
Nitrous, same as a 5.0 for 1300 bucks...

So if you want to run consistent 12s with nitrous, you'll need:

Slicks/wheels
Gears
Exhaust
Proper Nitrous kit (including at a minimum a WOT switch, probably a bottle heater, etc...)
Jacket (for all power adder cars)

That alone will run >$1300.

Oh, and don't forget THE COST OF NITROUS. Nitrous is really expensive these days.

So, once again. Bullshit.

Paul.

Paul, you are looking at that as buying BRAND NEW stuff. I can go down to the local pull a part and get good used gears for 50 bucks.
When you say exhaust, you talking FULL exhaust? I.E. headers back? Again, you can get full exhaust for 500 bucks or less if you look hard enough. A set of drag radials brand new cost 300 bucks. I know I only paid 300 bucks for my NOS dry kit and it came with everything. And nitrous refills here are 3 bucks per lb. So yes it can be done for under your 1300 dollar threshold.
 

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I don't know any OEM cars that run 3.73s or 4.10s that you can get at a junkyard. Further - what about the trac-lok rebuild? What about diff fluid? What about the rearend rebuild kit with all the necessary shims? What about the speedo gear? What about the labor to install it? Not a lot of folks have the tools and know-how to put gears in. I work on a lot of stuff, but even I don't bother doing my own gears.

Please let me know where you're getting nitrous for $3 a pound. I've not seen it that low in YEARS. A bottle fill these days is usually running around $50 at least. Filling that bottle would sure eat into your budget pretty quick.

Further, if you want consistency, an entry-level dry nitrous kit isn't going to do it. Consistency involves consistent bottle pressure, which means a heater, and a gauge to monitor pressure. Going further, consistency will often include a nitrous controller of some type.

...and on and on and on.

4.6 or 5.0 - $1300 for consistent 12s is not real likely in an SN95.

Paul.
 

jfor441

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Ford F-150's, Ford Explorer's... Thats off the top of my head that have 3.73 or 4.10's STOCK. Don't have to rebuild the t-lock if your not having problems with your stock t-lock. Diff fluid is like 9 bucks. You don't have to buy rear end rebuild kit. ANYBODY can change gears in their rearend with basic hand tools. Speedo gear is unneccesary when racing.

Where do I get it for 3 bucks a pound? The local drag strip sells it I think at 3.50 a lb. I have a buddy that sell nitrous refills for 3 bucks a pound to all the local racers.

My NOS kit is the 05115-IINOS... I got it with a heater, and a window switch for 300 bucks. I got my pressure guage for 50 bucks from a local guy.


So yes it can be done. Just because YOU haven't seen nitrous for less than 50 bucks for a fill does not mean it is not out there. You know why folks call Mustangs PB&J around here? Because you can make them fast cheap and they are as easy to make fast cheap as it is to make a PB&J sandwich taste good.

Several guys around me run low 7's high 6's and have less than 2500 bucks total in their cars. That is including the cost of the car.
 

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