xcal3 question

[Jrgunn5150]

Just want to add, just because your light isn't on, doesn't mean you don't have code's.

 

[TxCobrA98]

Just want to add, just because your light isn't on, doesn't mean you don't have code's.

did not know that.

http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?action=faq#a15 If you still have the black plastic cover on the EEC then there's no chip in it. It's a real pain to come down from it's mount. There's a plastic triangle shaped bracket that holds it in place, 2 metric screws. The connector is a 10 mm bolt. If it was flashed you won't see a chip installed since that process goes through the OBD II port.

I'm going to assume that you don't have all the tools or equipment needed to run a full check on the car. So you don't have any CELs? The fuel pressure is check from the valve you found. You have to check it with the vacuum line connected and then removed. It will run from 39 - 41 with the line removed and 28 - 32 with the line installed. If you don't have an OBD II reader you should invest in one. You can pick up a cheap one like an Actron CP9135 for $60. Or take your car to an Advance Auto or something like that and have them read your codes. You can also purchase the Actron from these places. That's a good starting point. Post up the codes you find.

i know to reset the EEC you undo the neg. battery terminal but ive done that millions of times working on the car for way longer than ten minutes so i dont think thats gonna fix it. i will check for a chip later tomorrow, though im pretty confident there wont be one. my car was stock to the air filter when i got my car.

also, what tools are you implying that I need to do a full check. my dad has hundreds of tools at my house so i can do this sort of stuff on the weekends. i live in a dorm right now so I myself dont have any tools but i have access to hundreds of tools.

and i am hoping to go get a fuel pressure gauge tonight. idk if autozone is still open. almost 9:30. pretty sure they are closed.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

He means by full tools the super duper dealer service tech computer that allows them to be half brain dead and still repair a car.

 

[TxCobrA98]

ok its about 30 maybe less degrees outside but i did the fuel pressure test. idk if i did it correct or not so ill tell you guys what i did. i plan to redo it tomorrow anyways because i did it in like 3 seconds but heres the results and procedure.

first i put the adapter on the schrader valve, then connected the line coming from the gauge onto it. after i did that, i turned the key to on, engine off, and my dad said the gauge went to 20 PSI. sat there for about 5-10 seconds then i turned it off.. then i turned the car on and it went to 30 psi. forgot to take off a vacuum line because it was so cold and we were trying to hurry (which is why we are going to redo it.).. i turned the car off and we were done.

so key on, engine off = 20PSI

key on, engine on = 30PSI

 

[Jrgunn5150]

30 on with the engine running is perfect with the line hooked up. BUT, did you go WOT? Because that is where you start dumping fuel according to your graph.

 

[SnakedMark8]

]

Just want to add, just because your light isn't on, doesn't mean you don't have code's.

did not know that.

http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?action=faq#a15 If you still have the black plastic cover on the EEC then there's no chip in it. It's a real pain to come down from it's mount. There's a plastic triangle shaped bracket that holds it in place, 2 metric screws. The connector is a 10 mm bolt. If it was flashed you won't see a chip installed since that process goes through the OBD II port.

I'm going to assume that you don't have all the tools or equipment needed to run a full check on the car. So you don't have any CELs? The fuel pressure is check from the valve you found. You have to check it with the vacuum line connected and then removed. It will run from 39 - 41 with the line removed and 28 - 32 with the line installed. If you don't have an OBD II reader you should invest in one. You can pick up a cheap one like an Actron CP9135 for $60. Or take your car to an Advance Auto or something like that and have them read your codes. You can also purchase the Actron from these places. That's a good starting point. Post up the codes you find.

i know to reset the EEC you undo the neg. battery terminal but ive done that millions of times worki;ng on the car for way longer than ten minutes so i dont think thats gonna fix it. i will check for a chip later tomorrow, though im pretty confident there wont be one. my car was stock to the air filter when i got my car.

also, what tools are you implying that I need to do a full check. my dad has hundreds of tools at my house so i can do this sort of stuff on the weekends. i live in a dorm right now so I myself dont have any tools but i have access to hundreds of tools.

and i am hoping to go get a fuel pressure gauge tonight. idk if autozone is still open. almost 9:30. pretty sure they are closed.

I didn't say anything about reseting the EEC. That's going to do nothing for you except to clear the adaptive memory. You are going to need the tools for an engine balance test, compression and leak down and wide band O2 recording device. These tools are not cheap and most weekend/hobbyist don't have anything like these. You need to be able to log, read or see the fuel pressure while the vehicle us under load at WOT beside just at idle. Checking at idle with and without the vacuum line is the first step. Your best bet I think is to take it to a shop and have them put it on the diagnostic machine. This would eliminate a lot of guessing. Then you can ask them to explain what they fine besides direct you to what needs to be fixed. You don't have to have them do the work which will save you money, your only paying for the diagnostics. This I would consider money well spent in your case.

 

[TxCobrA98]

yeah thats what my dad said i should just go do. if i can schedule one on my way back from my college this weekend when i go home, ill get it done.

i did the fuel pressure check though. vacuum line removed at the regulator was at 40psi and WOT was the same.

 

[SnakedMark8]

Ok that's where it should be.

 

[TxCobrA98]

ok cool thing. i bought a compression tester but have yet to do it.

could you tell me how to properly do it? im pretty sure i have the process down but im not quite sure as I have never done it before. i haven't asked my dad if he knows how but yeah, i was just wondering.

btw, thanks for all the info thus far J.R. and Mark, i appreciate all of it!

 

[realitygt]

pull a spark plug out and screw it in the hole, turn the engine over and the highest number the compression tester says is when it's at tdc and that is ur compression. It should be about 150-180 psi if I'm not mistaken.

 

[TxCobrA98]

i didn't think the motor was supposed to turn fully over though??

dont you have to disable the coils or pull all the plugs so it wont fire? and open up the TB to WOT?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

]
i didn't think the motor was supposed to turn fully over though??

dont you have to disable the coils or pull all the plugs so it wont fire? and open up the TB to WOT?

Yes unplug your coilpacks. And yes, rotate the TB open.

Now that test is cranking compression, and it will tell you enough probably, but a leak down test would tell exactly how bad it is, that's a different gauge though. Honestly, with it running that rich, I'm sure it's lost ring seal from the cylinder walls being washed down. No hurry, but before you slide a new bullet in, I would get to the bottom of that.