1995 mustang gts rear gear install.... UPDATE 8/30/15

Discussion in 'Drivetrain' started by Dugzy33, May 21, 2015.

  1. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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    Done tons of research and have all the ability and tools.

    I just thought I would see if anyone has any last min tips or trick for me.
    I am going to install new gears and rebuild my traction loc as soon as the gears come in.

    Thanks,
    Doug
     
  2. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Magnet for the c clips....
     
  3. bluex

    bluex Active Member

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    Crush sleeve eliminator
     
  4. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

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    Take your time getting the pinion load right. If you over tighten the crush sleeve it is no good. There is a lot of vids how to do it on youtube but I found this guys to be most useful.......

    [video=youtube;tJrAIDCpbDI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJrAIDCpbDI[/video]
     
  5. 87hurricane

    87hurricane Member

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    Are you just replacing gears, or are you doing bearings and clutches as well? Gears are fairly easy, a full rebuild is definitely a bit more involved.
     
  6. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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    Replacing all the bearings and races.
    Replacing the Clutches with New Carbon fiber ones from the Cobra.
    Replacing all the seals too.
    Might as well do it all while its apart.

    Doug
     
  7. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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    UPDATE

    so gears are done.
    all new bearings, seals,(axle too) cobra carbon fiber t-lok.
    doing the clutch now.
    trans is out and noticed my bearing retainer is magnetic, so not aluminum.
    already bought a new one from latemodelresto.
    Should I return it?
    I thought the 95 gt (mines a gts) came with aluminum bearing retainer bolted to the trans?

    Thanks,
    Doug

    BTW an awesome part of doing the gears on a gts is not having to worry about the abs sensors!
     
  8. ranger56528

    ranger56528 Active Member

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    I just received my 4.10 gears and track lock kit with full brg kit,I have a 95 GTS also but anyway how long did it take you to rebuild it,I have a guy that will do mine for 200.00 but maybe I'll just do it and also what was the hardest part of rebuilding it? Thanks.
     
  9. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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    I had a week off from work and took my time.
    Did a little each day.
    Also I dont have a press so I had to take bearings to a shop for pressing on.
    Some of the hard parts where as follows...

    I dont have a lift and am a big guy so I had to get the car up on my big jack stands.
    Since I have no lift it was a little difficult to get the races out of the center section while on my back trying to get a good swing with the hammer and drift.
    Putting the races in was also tough as I wanted to get them in straight!
    I drained the tranny and took out the drive shaft ( I was changing the clutch too) so it wasn't in my way to help with room.
    I made a companion flange holding tool but getting the crush sleeve on at the right preload was tough and I had to use a breaker bar and still took alot of muscle.
    I actually went past the recommended preload the first time and had to take the pinion out and use my backup crush sleeve and start over!
    The preload will sneak up on you really fast.
    Once the nut keeps everything from wiggling I only tightened a 10th of a rotation each time then checked preload
    Seemed like it took forever but all of the sudden it was right there after the last rotation.
    Since I used ford racing gears I used the factory pinion shim and it worked out.
    I also used the factory carrier shims and when I set up the dial indicator it was right on.
    Keep all shims and such in their same relative positions as you found them.
    I used like 30 zip lock baggies and a sharpie to keep em sorted.
    Torquing the ring gear bolts requires a large vise to hold the carrier.
    I rebuilt the t lok too pretty easy just make sure to use the carrier pin to line it all up when you put in the spider gears then take it back out to put the carrier back in the center section.
    The cobra t lock rebuild kit comes with a huge s spring that I broke trying to get in the carrier so i used the original. (I haven't had any issues now 1000 miles after rebuild)
    Use a vise and needle nose vise grips to compress it and then tap it in the carrier.
    Search you tube vids for a how to on that.
    Axle bearings and seal are easy, I had a harbor freight bearing/race install kit. Just go in square.
    Getting the carrier in with the shims was a 2 try attempt, it is tight make sure everything is very clean and get the carrier shims in all the way as they like to hang and stick out a little.

    btw use ford racing gears only IMO

    I research for a solid 6 months before doing this and read everything I could over and over before doing.
    200 seems very reasonable especially if that includes the t lok rebuild.

    That is about all I can think of right now, any specific questions let me know.
    I didn't explain every step so there is much more.
    I hope this makes sense!

    Doug


    p.s. 1000 miles and no whine or weird noises.
    Also with my new 3.73's I am in 4th gear at end of 1/4 mile at almost 6k rpm
    Stock trans, gt40 heads and intake, cold air intake, 70mm tb, offroad hpipe with flowmaster cat back, no smog pump.
     
  10. ranger56528

    ranger56528 Active Member

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    Ok thanks,I'm disabled so no way I can lay down and do that type of pounding so it looks like I'll take it to the shop and pay Steve 200 to do it,he used to build trannies and rear ends in his younger days now trannies are R&R but he still does rear ends,lim glad it worked out for you and our rides are built pretty much the same.
    Once again thanks for posting this.
     
  11. 5.0l cory

    5.0l cory Member

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    that video 98snakehorse is really good that is what I watched when I did my rear gears :thumbsup: