2v 00 GT - oil in Kenne Bell and running lean (now...)

[chris91]

Shit for that price you could buy the Trick Flow Upper End package and have your block sent out and built to whatever specs you want. Thats what Id do if you plan on spending that much. Youll be MUCH happier and the car will throw down a lot more power too.

 

[Reckless2v]

Agreed Chris,
A friend of parents has been fixing cars and building engines for like 40 years. He knows a few reputable machine shops near by.
A full short block clean-resurface-replace-assemble should be a couple thousand...
A couple thousand in everything from the heads up being replaced or rebuilt...
Sounds like a plan at some point. With it running as good as it is I'm probably just gonna drive it until something lets go.
The KB has been on there for a while so I'm sure I'm slowly gonna lose the rings until it's noticeably slower than it should be.

 

[chris91]

Yeah I'd drive it till it pukes.

But with the trick flow heads and shit with a built block and the KB you'd be making some serious power. Local guy with the trick flow kit, custom cams and built shortblock put down 400 to wheels with no power adder.

 

[the.greg]

Man I really suggest getting this thing tuned. I bet you will be suprised what a proper dyno tune can do to help power but mainly every day driveability. I drove my kb cobra untuned for a month before I realized it was un-tuned, and then I had it tuned and it was like a new car. Also if you have a solid tune done, you shouldn't have to worry about the engine going, engines fail mainly when they go lean and detonate under load. A tune dials in the afr and makes it much safer and more efficient.

You might be fine as it is, but I would at least get it on the dyno with a real afr monitor to make sure it is healthy. In my area, this sort of dyno with no actual tuning, is relatively inexpensive (75-125$) to atleast give you an idea about your power and most importantly afr is currently like. It seems like cheap insurance instead of just waiting to see if it blows, then having to spend serious cash for a rebuild! Best of luck with your car

 

[RichV]

^ agreed. I pay $35 for 3 pulls with AFR. Ask around and get it on the rollers ASAP.

 

[Reckless2v]

Thanks for the input guys!
I just made a couple trips around the block with a friend of mine (Reckless Roush) and did a few decent pulls.
It pulls really good, at least for what I can tell. Definitely the fastest car I've ever driven...
But when I got home and got it in the garage, I popped the hood and felt the top of the KB housing out of suspicion...
Of course the housing was blazing hot! Pulled the cap for the heat exchanger reservior... hardly warm!!!
I'm pretty sure the stupid electric pump isn't turning on... next on my list after installing the catch can(s).
Do you guys know and/or have done a simple manual switch install to turn the pump on from the driver seat?
I'm probably just gonna do that for simplicity, instead of finding the source that isn't turning it on...
That's all for now. Checking funds and ordering some parts soon! Thanks guys!

 

[Hoseitdown]

Yes sir. I had my car put on the rollers at a local Dyno Day. Tuner pulled it to 3500 and let off. Car was running like 18:1 AFR. I shook the man's hand. Best 50 bucks Ive ever spent on that car. Replaced the fuel pump, and added a FPR, ($300 total including install) and picked up 0.3 at the track, and noticable power on the street.

 

[the.greg]

Yeah dude, like I said from the beginning a dyno session should be your top priority. If you intercooler isn't working 10psi is much higher than I would feel safe with, especially untuned!

Just because it pulls hard or seems fine, doesn't mean it isn't running lean or rich to the point of not being safe. I wouldn't get into boost at all without knowing exactly where I was at with my afr. Especially seeing that you bought the car as-is and didn't do the install yourself and are unfamiliar with its full history. I am saying this from personal experience with mine. These cars can take a beating, but if you go lean and detonate, thats gonna be a VERY bad day haha. Good luck with it man, sounds like a fun car for sure.

 

[Reckless2v]

Well I looked into it and there is a dyno shop like 2 doors down from my shop so I will probably be in there soon.
After I can take care of some of oil burning. Also I may have a hookup through a dyno shop that does a lot of boosted 4.6s nearby...
No more boost for me, although it is soooooo hard!! haha

 

[Reckless Roush]

Any input on your temp issue? You said engine coolant at op. temp, intercooler cold-ish, blower housing HOT HOT HOT? Dourado says that that may be normal.. said that if it pulled consistantly every time that its ok. Im thinking that maybe your heat exchanger pump in inop? Idk how the plumbing is exactly, but Id be weary. Ps- Anyone reading this: Reckless2v had orange GM coolant in his engine/radiator and has not yet been flushed. My Roush when I bought it also had orange coolant in it, despite a sticker advising against it. Does somebody know something I dont in regards to Orange vs Green? Or are people just that dumb?

Injection/ induction clean, fresh plugs and some non-soiled O2 sensors and then dyno for a realistic A/F and see where youre at.. your rainbow guage short band may be poop at best.

 

[the.greg]

Well its completely normal for the kenne bell itself to feel hot to the touch. However I'm not sure exactly what yall are saying about the heat exchanger only being a little warm, but its worth looking into further.

If it has "orange" coolant in it, I think you should do a thorough coolant system drain, flush, and refill with some high quality ford recommended coolant. While you are at it throw in a 170 degree thermostat to help keep it running cool.

After a dyno and a few maintenance items, I think you will be all set bro.

 

[Reckless2v]

Yes a full fluids flush is coming soon, as well as a cooling system hose refurb/re-route. Knowing that the diff is blown, I'm not sure if I wanna just drain what is probably the original diff fluid by the looks of the diff cover, or just pony up for a new trak-lok and 31 splines...

 

[Reckless2v]

Ok did a couple trips around the block just to see what's going on. Figured out my A/F gauge is a narrow, replacement on the list. Before I made the trips I removed the bolts for the heat exchanger pump reservior, turned the key on for the pump and wiggled/tilted the reservior around a bit... the pump noise got quieter and when I pull the cap for the reservior, it was like a torrent of flow going through the reservior. Pretty certain that's probably fixed. So 1: catch can(s) 2:fix high idle 3: off to the dyno!!!