2v to 4v swap

uncltrvlnmatt

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Duff Daddy said:
cobra motors have forged rods and crank. why not just use thoes OR not waste your time and just do it right now that you can work the entire winter?

The 1996-01 Cobra engines only had a forged crank. They did not use forged rods and pistons until 03/04.
 

duff daddy

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uncltrvlnmatt said:
Duff Daddy said:
cobra motors have forged rods and crank. why not just use thoes OR not waste your time and just do it right now that you can work the entire winter?

The 1996-01 Cobra engines only had a forged crank. They did not use forged rods and pistons until 03/04.

Thanks, I changed my post and I knew i should have gotten the hyland book out.
 

uncltrvlnmatt

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No problen Duff. If you worked at a Ford dealer instead of a Dodge dealer, you would know this. LOL!
 

vermilion

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good ole mister hyland. all 4.6 cobras had steel cranks. kellog cranks also. the rods were powder metal as GTs.pistons were flat top because the 4v heads had different combustion chamber designs. in 03/04 cobras they used manley rods and used a generic manley piston setup. the company name started with a "Z" ... Ford actually listened to consumers and researched for the terminator hence why it was successful and often imitated among none terminator drivers.... as for OP use the cobra engine and current 96 GT computer. extend the wires for the IAT, maf and maybe the throttle cable.
 

Marvin97

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Vermilion said:
extend the wires for the IAT, maf and maybe the throttle cable.
he shouldn't have to extend any of these wires. The only wires that need to be extended are the ones for the coolant temp sensor. You'll have to install a second one, as the gt uses 2 coolant sensors and all stangs and cobra's 99 and up only use 1. You'll also need a cobra throttle and cruise cable, the gt ones won't work, they come up about 4-6 inches short. You'll also need 96-98 cobra fuel rails or aftermarket, or change the 96 to a returnless style fuel system. And of course, a tune is a must for this car, without question. I wouldn't even try starting it without one.
 

lordgufi

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actually he doesn't need the second coolant sensor... just the driver side connector is important. the passanger side is just the instrument panel. imo... remove that crap and install an aftermarket guage in its place..

also... both sensors use the same ref voltage and can be wired together, just splice the return lines together and leave the plug unplugged... i know it works because i did this with my car untill i was able to get a 3/8npt tap for my PI swap
 

NERD

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lordgufi said:
actually he doesn't need the second coolant sensor... just the driver side connector is important. the passanger side is just the instrument panel. imo... remove that crap and install an aftermarket guage in its place..

also... both sensors use the same ref voltage and can be wired together, just splice the return lines together and leave the plug unplugged... i know it works because i did this with my car untill i was able to get a 3/8npt tap for my PI swap


Your post is full of wrong info. The two sensors have different values and you can not "Wire them together", lol. And how do you tell someone to just not attach their temp gauge?
 

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