OK so here is some things you will need to do you top. These are just my recommendations.
1.Buy new tacking strip for the header bow and A frame (where the pads connect) Can be found here:
Convertible Tops and Convertible Top Parts
2. Your going to need a Pneumatic stapler to make the job easier.
3. An electric impact gun or air wratchet is nice to zip on and off the nuts for the times your going to need to test fit.
4. You will need a 12pt 14mm Socket to remove the nuts holding the tacking strip to the body.
5. i think a T8,T9,T10,T15,T20 will cover all the torx for the liner and seals.
6. A big torx to undo the rear seatbelts T60 IIRC???
7. Various sizes of staples the oem top uses 3 sizes... I bought 1/4'' 3/8'' and 1/2''
8. Chalk helps to draw lines on the top if you need to make adjustments.
9. Spray adhesive (super77) or contact cement.
10. A sharp blade to make the cuts in the top. I prefer a xacto to a box cutter... If you cut to far the tops basically trash.
11. A drill to drill out the old rivets holding the tacking strips to the A Frame
12. A rivet gun and rivets to install the new tacking strips.
13. A set of picks to remove staples.
14. A coat hanger and some string to install the cables
15. Blankets to save your paint.
Tips:
1. Make sure the rear window is mounted high enough (mine is a little to low)
2. Make sure all staples are fully in when stapled. If not and you try to tap them in with a hammer you will make a small cut in the top... I got one in mine.
3. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THE WEATHER STRIPPING ITS NOT CHEAP!
For the $125 i spent on the top and $50 in supplies im happy with it. its not a pro job but it looks decent and the window is actually in place...
It will wrinkle and look like trash if not done right... In which case you need to pull out all 100 staples you just put in and restaple the damn thing.
Finished:
Im confident if i had to do it again it would turn out much better.
