A maf sensor,vacuum leak,iac valve or ect issue seems likely to me due to the symptoms.
Disconnect the harness from the maf sensor first then try starting the engine to see how it runs.If it runs drastically better,the maf should be cleaned and tested.If this check doesn't show any improvement, move on and check for vacuum leaks.
A vacuum leak creates a lean condition,which oftentimes causes a rough,surging or high idle condition, stalling,hesitation,misfires,etc. Hoses,gaskets,vacuum operated components,brake booster check valve/grommet,pcv valve,smog solenoids,intake gaskets,injector bosses,etc are all areas of concern where a vacuum leak can occur.I don't know about the SN95,but the Foxbody was terrible about dry rotted hoses between the charcoal canister & purge valve.Speaking of the purge valve: if it gets stuck in the open position,this will allow unmetered fuel into the engine.Im not sure how well it'll work,but for the vacuum leak check,pull the hose off the brake booster check valve, light a cigar and take a good inhale of smoke (without choking of course) then blow the smoke into the hose.Any items leaking vacuum should allow the smoke to escape where you can hopefully see it.If you would rather use a different method,
the video in the link at the bottom shows how to build a makeshift smoke machine for $15.If you don't locate any vacuum leaks,move on to the next items.
The iac valve & ect sensor are the two primary components used during cold starts that prevents the engine from stalling.If the iac doesn't open fully and/or the ect doesn't output a cold temp reading (which richens the fuel trim) during cold start,a rough idle or stalling normally occurs.It works similar to how a choke works in carbed setups.The iac valve is directly affected by the ect sensor,so if the ect is suspect, the iac will likely not function correctly.When the ect outputs a cold temp reading,the iac is opened.When it outputs a warm reading,the iac is closed.The ect can be checked by disconnecting its harness and touching meter leads to the sensor terminals to test its ohms reading.Test it cold then hot & check those values against the ect/act ohms/temp chart.The iac can be checked too.Check it to see if its dirty first.If it is,it should be cleaned. For testing: with multimeter leads connected to the iac valves terminals,with the harness first disconnected,the meter should read 7-14 ohms in one direction & OL or Infinite in the opposite direction.Now hold one meter lead directly to the iac body while you move the other lead between the two iac terminals individually.The meter should read OL or >1meg ohm for both terminals
For the wiring,the red iac wire should read 12v.The white/lt blue wire is cycled to ground many times a second.
