95 Gt mildly built, not running like it should.

95Grandtouring5.0 · Nov 13, 2010

I have a 95 GT mustang, I did a HCI swap about a year ago. I had the car dyno tuned. Car put down 281rwhp and 305rwtq on a dyno jet.

For a good long while, the exhaust smells absolutely terrible, extremely rich.

Took it to the track last night, and the best time I could muster up was a 13.9 @ 100. The track I race at is only a hundred foot or two above sea level.

The past month or so, the CEL has been coming on after driving the car for about 10 minutes or so. As well for probably 5 months, the surging idle and rich smell has been there. At first I thought maybe the chip erased itself, but that can not be, because before it got tuned it was way worse then it is now, but its not perfect like it was after the tune. Several people told me the iac is probably bad which would be my surging idle problem ( only happens when it is cold out), but I don't think that has anything to do with the issue of it running so rich.

The main mod's are as follows
BBK CAI
BBK SSI Intake manifold ( modified for a sn95)
Trickflow twisted wedge street heat heads ( I believe 160 or 165cc) 2.02 valve
Trickflow Stage 2 camshaft
30lb Injectors
BBK fuel rails
BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator
BBK ceramic Equal length headers, bbk high flow catted H pipe, mac cat back
BBK 70MM TB
BBK under drive pulleys
SCT Chip, custom dyno tuned.

Any help is appreciated, I wanna get this thing running right.

ProjectMongoose · Nov 13, 2010

i would check the basics first right out the gate. plugs plug wires coil cap rotor button. then check timing with the spout removed. check the TPS and IAC. make sure fuel pressure is like it should be. clean the MAF and check filter as well. once you get this taken care of then you should be able to determine what the problem is weather it was a simple adjustment or something that needed replacing.

95Grandtouring5.0 · Nov 13, 2010

ProjectMongoose said:
i would check the basics first right out the gate. plugs plug wires coil cap rotor button. then check timing with the spout removed. check the TPS and IAC. make sure fuel pressure is like it should be. clean the MAF and check filter as well. once you get this taken care of then you should be able to determine what the problem is weather it was a simple adjustment or something that needed replacing.

Had new wires, plugs, cap and rotor put on 2 months ago. Timing is set at 16. I've tried cleaning the iac. Fuel pressure is what it is supposed to be. TPS and MAF I have not touched.

2002BLGT · Nov 13, 2010

If you think something has happened , I would take it back to same dyno for a pull to see if the power has dropped , too many variables when track times come into play

95Grandtouring5.0 · Nov 13, 2010

Its a bit of a drive and I dont have the money to spend.

Addermk2 · Nov 14, 2010

with the parts you have, you should be making better power. Id like to blame your tune, but without looking at it. I cannot.

28X hp with the components you have is very short of where you should be. After tuning, my cobra made 276rwhp on a stock longblock. You should be seeing considerably better numbers.

My main concern is the 13.9 second run. I was doing that with stock gears and a stock engine (14.0@ 101)

Mntlkase · Nov 14, 2010

Addermk2 said:
with the parts you have, you should be making better power. Id like to blame your tune, but without looking at it. I cannot.

28X hp with the components you have is very short of where you should be. After tuning, my cobra made 276rwhp on a stock longblock. You should be seeing considerably better numbers.

My main concern is the 13.9 second run. I was doing that with stock gears and a stock engine (14.0@ 101)

I agree. I've only got 3:73 gears,king cobra clutch, MAC intake, and Ran a 13.8 at 99. Maybe your car needs a driver mod? lol, I'm just fucking with ya. Anyway, check out tune as already said

95Grandtouring5.0 · Nov 14, 2010

Here is how my slip reads,

R/T- .092
60'- 2.150
330- 5.942
1/8- 9.049
MPH- 78.71
1000- 11.739
1/4- 13.988
MPH- 100.94

The car only has regular street tires, but yeah I mean for every thing that is done to the car it is stupidly slow. The tuning was done by a place called SGS automotive. I've only ever heard good things about them, and I had my car dyno'd ( not tuned) before I took it to them. And it put down 259rwhp, after sgs tuned it then it put down 281. Which I think would be a reasonable gain, but still I can't see why this thing is so down on power.

Addermk2 · Nov 15, 2010

this is with a stock engine, stock gears, and terrible street tires.

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/AdderMk2/?action=view&current=HPIM0205.mp4

Pure84GTT · Nov 15, 2010

did you purchase the heads used ? any idea on install height and seat pressure is on your valve springs ? sounds like your having issue with the exhaust valves not fully closing, thus the raw or unburned fuel smell and poor numbers (since your not getting a full and or proper combustion event). the same thing could also have with a cracked ringland or piston damage.

95Grandtouring5.0 · Nov 15, 2010

Pure84GTT said:
did you purchase the heads used ? any idea on install height and seat pressure is on your valve springs ? sounds like your having issue with the exhaust valves not fully closing, thus the raw or unburned fuel smell and poor numbers (since your not getting a full and or proper combustion event). the same thing could also have with a cracked ringland or piston damage.

well the heads were bought from a friend, but they were new in the box and I bought a nice set of stronger springs for it, after i wound up having problems with the springs that came in the head stock.

Pure84GTT · Nov 16, 2010

a compression test wouldn't be a bad idea

2002BLGT · Nov 16, 2010

Are you running a calibrated MAF ? If so did the dyno have a way to datalog the total timing it was seeing under load and was the dyno a loaded dyno ?

toyman · Nov 16, 2010

I would suggest you first clean the MAF sensor element with MAF cleaner and then check the signal voltage for a smooth increase in volts as the throttle is opened. Range should be about 1v - 4.5v at WOT. Second, I wouldn't rule out the O2 sensors. I'm assuming they are OEM as you didn't mention anything about AFRs or having a WB. If the O2s are OEM with lots of miles they should be replaced. You can't tell anything by looking at them. Like all sensors, they become less accurate over time with the heating and cooling cycles. And finally I would get a code reader. It will be the best $30 you spend.

ttocs · Nov 16, 2010

is the suspension stock as well? What has been changed there?

95Grandtouring5.0 · Nov 17, 2010

Pure84GTT said:
a compression test wouldn't be a bad idea

It's had one done before, while I don't remember the numbers exactly, but the compression on all cylinders was pretty good.

It's an oem maf that was replaced a few years ago, and the tuner programmed the chip for the 30lb injectors. When he did the dyno run, he had put a wide band on the car, and he made it so that the AFR was 13.0 at WOT, as you guys can see at the bottom of the dyno sheet. Yeah the 02's I was thinking should be replaced, and I'm not very good with electronics, so how would I go about checking the voltage, and where would I do it at?