Want To Buy 96-98 Cobra Short Runner Intake and SCT, Springs &...

Mystic544

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For my 1996 4V Cobra


Looking for a Short Runner Intake ... know Pauls High Performance and a few other companies offered one
Would be great if it had the IMRC delete in there too

Also looking for:

an open SCT hand held tuner for the 96-98 4V Cobra

a good set of progressive rate springs and Bump steer kit

Full Length SubFrame Connectors (with jacking rails)

Hooker AeroMax mufflers

Above = more important, but would also be nice to find a low $ set of valve covers and upper intake hat that I could get polished :thumbsup:

Located in the Phoenix AZ area - Appreciate the help!

Tim
 
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Mystic544

Mystic544

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what do you have done to the car that you want a short runner manifold for?
Pretty much all the bolt ones out there for the 4V besides the short runner intake :) Need
Moving from ChiTown to Phoenix I have to get a re-tune for the low octane BS they have here, so why not add a part that actually needs a re-tune. My Cobra was originally tuned by the guys at SCT before the hand held devices were available (they just reflashed the ECU back then) so I now need a unit.
The other parts from above that I am looking for are just to replace older mods currently on the Cobra that need to be updated....

I'm sure there is more, but the big stuff:
JBA Silver Ceramic Headers
Bassani o/r X-pipe
Hooker Aero Chamber Cat-Back Exhaust
Ceramic Coated WMS Cold Air Intake with 87mm Pro-M and K&N Filter
ASP Underdrive Pulleys
Bilstein Shocks & Struts
Pro3i LCA's, UCA's & C/C Plates
FMS C Springs
FMS 4.10 gear, 31 Splin & Trac Lock
FMS 11'' Flywheel & Clutch upgrade
SCT Custom Dyno Tune

 

Musturd

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Unless you gotta bottle or some sort of boost you won't benefit from a short runner intake . Unless you put some high revving monster cams in there
 

SVTstang96

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I have a set of eibach sportlines for springs, along with some valve covers that I will be taking off when I go COP
 

Knuckles@Empire

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wow you're just like me then. I moved to Mesa from Chicago 8 years ago. First 21 of my life in the windy. Ill have to get your info, I may know just a little bit about these cars =). But yeh short runner wont really benefit you none, its going to actually hurt the low end that B heads already struggle with since your just a bolt on car.

usually do a short runner when your force inducing it. Big nitrous 4vs only shorten the runner about 1/2-1 1/2" and thats when your running big squeeze like my old setup.






heres my number send me a text or a call well chat maybe we can get some stuff setup for yah out here. 480 840 4905



Knuckles
 

Mystic SVT

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Unless you gotta bottle or some sort of boost you won't benefit from a short runner intake . Unless you put some high revving monster cams in there

But yeh short runner wont really benefit you none, its going to actually hurt the low end that B heads already struggle with since your just a bolt on car.

usually do a short runner when your force inducing it. Big nitrous 4vs only shorten the runner about 1/2-1 1/2" and thats when your running big squeeze like my old setup.

Knuckles

Actually guys, a shortrunner will work just fine for him, especially in n/a form. It won't benefit him if he shifts at or below 6600rpm, but if he shifts at 7k rpm a well built shortrunner will benefit him a lot. As long as the runners are not shortened more than 2" you will be fine with the mods you listed and shifting at 7k rpm.

Shortrunners have a higher chance of puddling with nitrous if the plenum floor isn't raised to compensate for the shorter runners. Also, for boosted applications a shortrunner won't benefit much from what I've been told and have read by Todd (na svt), he's the one who built my shortrunner.

A 1.5" reduction in the runners in a full bolt-on car will have gains of 20-30hp in the top end (tuned) and as long as its tuned properly you shouldn't have any major loss if any down low.

I have a shortrunner on my 96 cobra with the following bolt-ons:
-pulleys
-long tubes
-O/R X
-aluminum driveshaft
-JLT true cold air
-IMRC deletes
-4.10s

Car ran a best of 12.9 @ 108.78 untuned and weighing 3800lbs with me in it. I'm going to be installing a 90mm maf, single blade TB, drag wheels, and tune.
 

1997GT4.6

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Actually guys, a shortrunner will work just fine for him, especially in n/a form. It won't benefit him if he shifts at or below 6600rpm, but if he shifts at 7k rpm a well built shortrunner will benefit him a lot. As long as the runners are not shortened more than 2" you will be fine with the mods you listed and shifting at 7k rpm.

Shortrunners have a higher chance of puddling with nitrous if the plenum floor isn't raised to compensate for the shorter runners. Also, for boosted applications a shortrunner won't benefit much from what I've been told and have read by Todd (na svt), he's the one who built my shortrunner.

A 1.5" reduction in the runners in a full bolt-on car will have gains of 20-30hp in the top end (tuned) and as long as its tuned properly you shouldn't have any major loss if any down low.

I have a shortrunner on my 96 cobra with the following bolt-ons:
-pulleys
-long tubes
-O/R X
-aluminum driveshaft
-JLT true cold air
-IMRC deletes
-4.10s

Car ran a best of 12.9 @ 108.78 untuned and weighing 3800lbs with me in it. I'm going to be installing a 90mm maf, single blade TB, drag wheels, and tune.

+ infinity. From countless hours of research this is the correct answer. All can be googled and found stated by Todd (na svt). He builds them, he knows how and when they work. The info above about fi and the sri is correct. Just remember to shift at 7k to get the benefit, if you already don't.

BTW Mystic you should be able to dip in mid 12s with those mods you have planned. The drag wheels and tire set up is extremely crucial here I believe. But why the single blade T-body? Won't net you more than 5whp if that; but I'm sure you've already done your research on the subject.
What pullies are you using? I can't recall the exact ones todd recommends but those are the good ones.
 

1997GT4.6

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For my 1996 4V Cobra


Looking for a Short Runner Intake ... know Pauls High Performance and a few other companies offered one
Would be great if it had the IMRC delete in there too

Also looking for:

an open SCT hand held tuner for the 96-98 4V Cobra

a good set of progressive rate springs and Bump steer kit

Full Length SubFrame Connectors (with jacking rails)

Hooker AeroMax mufflers

Above = more important, but would also be nice to find a low $ set of valve covers and upper intake hat that I could get polished :thumbsup:

Located in the Phoenix AZ area - Appreciate the help!

Tim
Oh and btw OP welcome to the forum from a local Arizonian! I don't think I've ever seen your car around? Not sure if you've seen mine but its a white 97 cobra with FR500s.
 

Mystic SVT

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But why the single blade T-body? Won't net you more than 5whp if that; but I'm sure you've already done your research on the subject.
What pullies are you using? I can't recall the exact ones todd recommends but those are the good ones.

The reason for the single blade TB is because I bought a Kenne Bell for the car a while back but ended up selling it shortly after for the same amount I bought it for but kept the Accufab TB, I knew I was going to need it down the line for either boost or bigger motor. Decided I would throw it on the car now just to squeeze every hp out of this damn nutless B head motor.

As far as pullies, I'm running piggybacks but will be changing over to the March fluid damper setup.
 
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Mystic544

Mystic544

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Hey Mystic SVT ... what number is your Mystic?
Crazy ... very similar babies ;)
Do you still have Todd (na svt) info???

Actually guys, a short-runner will work just fine for him, especially in n/a form.
Todd (na svt), he's the one who built my shortrunner.

A 1.5" reduction in the runners in a full bolt-on car will have gains of 20-30hp in the top end (tuned) and as long as its tuned properly you shouldn't have any major loss if any down low.

Nail On Head ... I know the short runner won't turn my 17 year old Cobra into a beast, I'm just looking to try and "keep-up" with the newer cars (in N/A trim - boost for next project). 20-30HP would be a welcome addition right now plus even better down the road if/when I pull the heads for some P&P and cam work...
Like mentioned above - have to re-tune anyway, why not add a reason besides dropping octane rating hahaha, wait that's not funny :( Even worse, need to find a tuner in AZ or figure out how to skype with Kurgan or ???


Hey SVTstang96 - let me know details and price ... Thanks!
 

1997GT4.6

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The reason for the single blade TB is because I bought a Kenne Bell for the car a while back but ended up selling it shortly after for the same amount I bought it for but kept the Accufab TB, I knew I was going to need it down the line for either boost or bigger motor. Decided I would throw it on the car now just to squeeze every hp out of this damn nutless B head motor.

As far as pullies, I'm running piggybacks but will be changing over to the March fluid damper setup.
Ah I remember you selling it, I almost bought it from you. Now I kick myself and wish I would have for a cheap tiny blower. Yeah that is true, might as well gain whatever can be squeezed out of the "nutless" motor haha. Tis true.

:deeplist: on the piggybacks lol. Yes, March damper set up is the way to go. I'm considering going that route to get all I can with bolt ons. All these little mods add up though and before you know it you could have gotten a blower lol.
 

Mystic SVT

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Hey Mystic SVT ... what number is your Mystic?
Crazy ... very similar babies ;)
Do you still have Todd (na svt) info???
I've never actually looked up to see what # mystic mine is. As for Todd's info, you can find him over on SVTPerformance.com and Corral.net, he's very helpful and has a lot of knowledge on mod motors.

Ah I remember you selling it, I almost bought it from you. Now I kick myself and wish I would have for a cheap tiny blower. Yeah that is true, might as well gain whatever can be squeezed out of the "nutless" motor haha. Tis true.

:deeplist: on the piggybacks lol. Yes, March damper set up is the way to go. I'm considering going that route to get all I can with bolt ons. All these little mods add up though and before you know it you could have gotten a blower lol.

Well the piggybacks are fine as long as they are installed correctly and not spun past 7000rpm, the reason they work fine is the reason that you're still using the stock size damper unlike the early Steeda pulleys that used a smaller size damper. But, nothing is better than a March fluid damper, Innovators west, ATI super damper, etc.
 

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