97 cobra build thread

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apsmith49921

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I had both front bleeders cracked open. I would hold the pedal for a few seconds then release. I couldn't get any fluid to come out after a few minutes. With the cap off as well. I kept checking the fluid and no decrease in level. It's new calipers and lines. I did leave the brake lines off for quite some time and it did empty the system or at least those 2 lines completely
 
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apsmith49921

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Update: I now have fluid at the bleeders. I'll continue on with the process
 

96blak54

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From my experience with mustang brakes, buy a brake bleeder pump and get a big bottle of brake fluid. Be sure the booster stays topped off and begin making rounds to each wheel bleeding the brake lines. Make sure the booster tank stays topped off in between.

In my learning experience, a brake line had broke and air got into the system. It took me forever to figure out what to do. After 2 big bottles of fluid, no brake bleeder pump to catch the fluid, and a few hours or making rounds to each corner, my helpers sore leg and i finally bled the brakes.
 
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apsmith49921

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Alright the cam install is done. I've rotated the motor by had with a small ratchet about 7000 times and seems to be smooth. Especially since I got all the followers in.

No real resistance either. I did get some when installing the followers but it was just normal tension I think. If you only have a few of them in it will want to flop over similar to how the cam move if you remove the chains. All in all I'd probably never do it again lmao

Oil, filter and new vc gaskets on the way. I bought some cheaper ones and they don't fit at all. I had good luck with the apex gaskets last time I assumed that's what I got on ebay and it was not.
 

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apsmith49921

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Well I've hit a wall. I'm getting some chain slap on the slack side. I don't know if it's because there isn't oil psi to get the chain fully tensioned or not. So I've got to pull the timing cover back off and check. I've seen where people use a clamp to get as much slack out as possible then use the tensioner stop to hold it tight until oil psi hits. That's plan A. If that fails I guess I'll order new chains. The motor is still in time it's just enough slack to make me nervous. Turning by hand with plugs in feels good and you can hear that nice compression when valves open and close. So I feel like I'm in good shape and I can't just half ass that install.

I also got the wrong vc gaskets for a 2nd time so now I wait longer on those.

Took some time with my daughter to help clean the shop and teach her some tools. Amazingly all my 10mm stuff made it back into the tool box lol. Sort of a stress reliever for the past day of figuring this shit out. Time to take a day or two and clear my mind from the project so I can get back into it without rushing through things. Mistakes right now get realllllllyyyyyyy costly
 

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Oil pressure does help. Im a fan of loading the chain tensioners with washer, to keep the chain tight regardless. You really should not have to do that tho. Long as your tensioners have the little stopper to prevent decompression, you should be good. I agree tho! Get them chains tight before start up. Dont rotate the engine counter clockwise. Loose chains will jump teeth on the crank.

Hey im not seeing the timing reluctor wheel in them pics!! Dont forget to install it!!!
 
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apsmith49921

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Yeah I've shown the video to a few folks. My current plan is to take all the slack out I can and then let that stopper hold it even tighter. If that works ill be good.


Here's a video of it. Anyone welcome to watch and let me know what they think. Including yourself and @RAU03MACH also @lwarrior1016 i know you two have also messed with 4vs a lot
 

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The cam lock tool will lock the cams
There is another tool with the kit allowing you to turn it the engine over some more to take out the slack
Keep turng with pressure and pull the pins on tensioner s
 

lwarrior1016

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So, I’d pull that cover, and roll the engine slightly to make the guide side nice and tight, then push the ratchet machanism in the tensioner all the way up against the tensioner arm. Like Blak said, oil pressure helps and you’d probably be fine, but it won’t hurt to make sure it’s all tight.
 
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apsmith49921

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Appreciate the input guys. I'll have the cover off again and see what I get
 
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apsmith49921

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Got the cover off tonight. I got all the slack out and tightened up the tensioner ratchet arm and it's 100% better. I'm getting no movement now which is fantastic. One final check of the dots and she's getting slapped back together
 
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Ok after getting the timing chain lined out I've got most of it back together. All I should have left is the intake manifold, coolant, clutch cable for the first start.

I've still got a few other odds and ends before it's road ready but I wanna hear this thing fire up.
 

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apsmith49921

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It fired right up too lol. Well once I realized i didn't have the iac plugged in.

This has eaten at me since my mach 1 7 years ago. I may or may not have had issues timing it or a bad short block. But the car never ran again I was dreading screwing this up. I took my time and did all my research and finally made it happen
 
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apsmith49921

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Worked on getting the brakes bled yesterday. My dad let me borrow a vacuum bleeder he has but I'm either stupid or it's broken. Either way I'll get some help and bleed them the old fashioned way tomorrow. Also messed with clearancing the exhaust from the rear tire. I've got a little gap now but might do some more work.

Things left:
Brake bleeding
Alignment
Tune dial in and getting it back on e85
Burp cooling system
 

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