-:AEM Gauges: Where To Pull Power From?:-

[whiplash473]

I'm working on wiring up my triple pillar which includes wideband, oil pressure, and water temp (all AEM electronic gauges). I'm trying to figure out where to get power from for them. I was thinking about wiring them into a new fuse in an empty slot in the under-dash fuse box but was having trouble since I'm not the greatest with electrical. Hopefully you blue oval folk can help me out as to what you've done or ideas you have.

 

[Wichers123]

I would run it off the radio circuit the arm gauges pull very little power to run. I used them in my Hondas all the time. The radio or the clock.

 

[ttocs]

not sure how you would put a new fuse in the fuse box myself. Tapping fuses in the fusebox for me an installer that is anal about his wiring is just messy with all the wires it leaves running in/out of it where it just isn't made to do. You don't have to go as crazy on it as I did adding an additional fuse box for all of them but there is neater/cleaner ways to do it. There are a number of places to tap power and not leave a mess. If you need them to light up with the lights you will run a wire to the headlight switch and tap the brown wire after testing to confirm that it has power on it with the lights on. So at that point if you have the dash out I would recommend either running the wire to the ignition wire hrns or just past that the radio hrns us also an easy place to tap power. As for fusing I can show you an easy/cheap way to add a fuse to your power wires. Go to your local autoparts store or even hardware store and pick up a package of insulated female spade connectors.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...CBA3AC3D4C2FD7BF7327ED3CC06C&selectedIndex=12

all you need to do is cut the power wire where you want to put the fuse. Now crimp one of these connectors on each wire and take a wire-tie and put it right at the bottom of the connectors to hold them together so they can't be pulled apart. You will need to twist the wires going to the connectors, or make them cross at the point the wire-tie is installed so that if you pull on the wire, the stress of the pull is concentrated on the wire tie not in disconnecting the connectors/fuse. Run your ground next to the power wire and then you can use the wire tie to go around the ground wire, as well as the two wires leading up to the connectors. Been doing this for years and never had a problem with them. Of course be sure to try and put the fuse somewhere that it is hidden yet still easy to get too.

 

[Stanimal]

i pulled mine from the rear window def switch. its already fused, it already is wired into the cluster lights so dimming works, the ground is a solid ground to use there too.

 

[whiplash473]

Before I break down your post, ttocs, what do you think of this? ↑ makes sense to me.

 

[ttocs]

Yea never thought about it before but it would work. Its switched, has a ground and also the dimmer wire is right there. Would need to remove 4 screws to do it so its pretty easy too. now I would recommend running that wire down under the dash near the fusebox before it goes up to the pillar just so you can have an easy place to put the fuse and have access to it. If my fuse holder idea confused you let me know and I can try to dig up a pic to show what I mean.

 

[whiplash473]

I'll probably give you a shout when I get to it (I'm figuring tomorrow.) As far as the dimmer goes, it's useless to me in both vehicles, I always have the dimmer maxed, never moved it once.

 

[whiplash473]

Ok I said screw it and decided to tackle at least some of this today. So now I'm sitting in my car. Scott - if you've got a minute to post the dose box setup that'd be great, thanks n


Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

 

[ttocs]

Ok I said screw it and decided to tackle at least some of this today. So now I'm sitting in my car. Scott - if you've got a minute to post the dose box setup that'd be great, thanks n


Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

you mean the fusebox set up I used? I have time now as I am just chillin in the hospital after getting sick this morning if you need help. Maybe be can use FB messanger or something if you want to do it more real-time

 

[whiplash473]

Yeah sounds good.


Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

 

[ttocs]

https://www.facebook.com/scott.sorensen.161 friend me

 

[whiplash473]

Already am. By the way - Hope its not too serious, get better dude.


Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

 

[Stanimal]

its really simple to do. on the back of the plug for the def switch is 5 wires. on constant hot, one ignition hot, one ground for the heater, one ground for the lights, one hot for lights. i just did my autometers 2 weeks ago so if you need any help let me know too.

 

[whiplash473]

Alright thanks for the info, Stan.


Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

 

[det_riot]

I threw a relay in for my electric gauges and wideband. Pulled the 12v from the battery, and the switch feed from the ignition so gauges turn on when ignition is on.

 

[ttocs]

for the low power consumption of gauges I would not worry about a relay myself. Don't get me wrong as long as its fused correctly its better but overkill, which is not a bad thing.

 

[whiplash473]

I threw a relay in for my electric gauges and wideband. Pulled the 12v from the battery, and the switch feed from the ignition so gauges turn on when ignition is on.

Now if you could get your gauge cluster to work properly you'd be set. :sad5:

 

[ttocs]

What is up with yer gauges?

 

[whiplash473]

They don't work, then they go bonkers, then they rear improperly, then go bonkers, then Bryan says "Oh look! They're working!...ohhh nevermind."

Still laughing about that morning you picked me up and that happened.

 

[ttocs]

Where did you ground them at?